As for your P0440 problem, If I recall correctly, EVAP EMISSIONS LEAK (SMALL I BELIEVE) I can tell you that my light eventually went away but it took a while. I can share some reasonably obvious areas to check that might get a goodstart.

EDITED TO ADD: THESE PROCEDURES AND PARTS DECSRIPTION APPLY TO 2003 4.7L ENGINES. YEARS MIGHT BE SAME BUT THE KEY THING TO REMEMBER IS 4.7 LV8'S

1. EVAP CANISTER Drivers side, forward of the fuel tank, attached to frame, about the size of a loaf of bread. There are at least three vacuum lines I had dry rot on two of them. It was a dry rot tear on the canister side nipple, so inspect closely, a good bright work light will help. I had to replace the two bigger lines. Here is the trick though, The line is a flared vacuum line although rubber it is a 7/16 internal diameterfor one side and 3/8th on the other. One of the few occasions I recommend dealer stock.

2. FUEL CAP: Again dealer stock, in my area it was only about $10 about same as market area prices.

3. PCV VALVE TUBING: Follow the tubing off the PCV VALVE there should be rubber hose, hard plastic tubing, and Right between the firewall and the intake manifold, one more piece of rubber elbow. Dealer cost in my area about $7-10 Allow time for delivery not a normal in stock item, but may vary depending on market. I am in INDY but got the part from warehouse in Milwaukee. N/A at Advance or Auto Zone.

I had to have light reset after each replacement, and it still came back on but code went from LEAK to code P0456 (VERY SMALL LEAK) so I was making progress. After it ran enough cycles the light stayed out and has been out for about two months now.

Other tidbits I have learned.

1. Don't check just the vacuum lines mentioned, check the whole area, including surrounding lines.

2. When refueling, Engine off, key out, cap off and do not energize until fueling complete. Even though the engine is not on, the circuit will eventually set off the M.I.L unless the fuel cap is on tight (minimum three clicks)

The causes are not listed to only the above, but should be a fairly reasonable starting point for troubleshooting. If none of these obvious hecks turn up anything then you might have a repair shop visit. They should be able to do a smoke test, which is basically a smoke dye that is run through a closed system and where the smoke comes out, that is the leak. Appprox $50 in my area but if you can't find anything then you might be forced into this. How much is peace of mind and finally finding the leak worth?

 

It's been a while since the last post. I had the electric fan assist replaced over $720. Ouch! My wife's car is now the problem. Is the electric fan assist difficult to replace? I now have a garage and my tools at my disposal. I was looking at how to get to the fan and it seems that If I drain the windshield wiper reservoir and drain the antifreeze overflow resourvoir, I should be able to unbold that plastic piece. They're3 electrical connections to theleft (myleft as I face the engine) that could be disconnected or moved with the plastic resourvoir. Then I should be able to unscrew the 3 screws that hold the electric fan andpop in the new one? Does this seem like the correct steps or did I miss something critial.

Thanks

 

Thats it, I just lean the top half on the engine. Just disconnect the window washer connectors on left side (3). Don't disconnect antifreeze resourvoir. You will have to disconnect the crossbar thats connected next to the hood latch, (2-bolts).. It will give you a little more room to unscrew bolt holding e-fan. I also loosen bottom shroud for wiring. I replaced minethree times.Two times under warrenty, last month I did myself. Shop around for best prices, I got mine for $168.00 to my door.
http://www.autoparts-autoparts.com/d...densers_6.html

Aloha,