Does anyone know where I can get the timing instructions for the 4.7? We have tried 3 times and it's not working. Replaced just about everything...went by manual, but not sure that's right.

Ang

 

The computer should know the advancement. I wonder if the Automatic Shutdown Sensor Relay (ASD) is working.

 

Ang:

I don't believe you can "set" the timing on the 4.7 like many of these newer vehicles. It is usually controlled by the PCM.

What makes you think that it is out of time????

Don

 

It's out of time b/c we tore it down after blowing a head gasket. Long story short and after bringing in one mechanic after another into our bodyshop (huge mistake) the current mechanic said it needed new timing chains after it would turn over but not start. Our deisle mechanic agreed so we purchased chains. Another tear down to do that (dohc). Replaced those truck will crank but not run. Mechanic believes the manual maybe incorrect and wanted to check. I'm at $1300 and counting thus far on what should have been about a $200 since there was nothing wrong with my heads to begin with. Now that someone else has worked on in my normal mechanic shop and the dealership will not touch it. Thus I need y'all's help.

Ang

 

Ang:

How many miles on the rig?? Those chains are meant to last the life of the engine. I haveyet to hear of anyone that needed to replace them due to wearing out at a low mileage.

You should be able to verify that the cams are in proper relation to the crank without going too far back into the motor.

It would be handy to have a FSM for this. I would think that once you get cyl #1 at TDC, you can then lookthe cam on each head, and there should be marks that will tell the story.

Once that is ok, computer sets the timing and away you go.

Have you run a compression test to see if there is any???

Don

 

Sounds like the make shift mechanic put the timing chain gears on center when #1 was on exhaust stroke instead of compression stroke. Thus making the computer spark on exhaust stroke verses compression.

This would make sense. You need to remove the valve cover on #1 and make sure that the intake valves open as you turn the motor manually. Remove the spark plug and you can very lightly stick a screw driver down the spark plug hole into the combustion chamber. As you turn the motor very slowly (Manually) bring the piston to the top of the cylinder. This would be compression stroke. When you feel that the piston is at the top look down at your crank shaft pulley and read the marks. You should be at Top Dead Center.

Back the piston back down and turn on the ignition to the run position. (NOT START) Place the spark plug into the Coil Over Pack and ground the bottom of the plug. Now turn the crank manually again forward slowly bringing the piston back to Top Dead Center. Before it reaches the very top of what would be Compression Stroke the plug should fire. Approx 5 degree's before Top Dead Center.

If it doesn’t spark check the ground and try again. If it doesn’t spark slowly turn the motor manually until it does and se if it sparks on Exhaust Stroke. This would be when the piston flows fully back down and then comes back up and the exhaust valves will open. If this happens then the timing chain gears were put on wrong. They need to align on compression stroke not exhaust which may very well be your problem.

This happends to the best of us.

 

My husband says ty ty ty! He was thinking the same thing y'all were. Hydra, he's going to try your test tomorrow. Mechanic didn't show up yesterday or today to work on my truck. I forgot to mention that the mechanic tore the motor down another time during all of this and said he'd put the chains on backwards (wrong chain wrong cam thing). We have a friend in another town we consulted with on this one (he teaches mechanics at a local community college here) and he said we should have never sent the heads off to begin with since it was holding compression to begin with, even though it was running hot (everything to deal with cooling system has been replaced). He also said the Durango did not need new chains or gears (we haven't replaced the gears).

I just want to say that I told my husband this was the place to go and get answers for all things related to dodge. He was skeptical and feeling pretty low that we have 3 dodges and the only one that runs is smoking. After reading your post I think he is seeing the light at the end of the tunnel. Thanks guys, if all works out well I maybe able to buy another Dodge in the future.

Ang

 

The thing is if you are going into a motor that far then it would be a good idea to replace the timing gears and chain because of wear. Thee thing is that the heads will be checked to see if they are true and will be thoroughly cleaned out. This will make the motor hold more compression. If you install a new chain and gears then the motor will run perfectly on time and that will be just like a brand new motor feel. You will have greater horse power and torque as well.

Sure yours might not need the new items but, with even small amounts of wear it puts the motor out just a little under and coming off load. Not to mention it is a pain in the *** if the chain breaks or gear slip occurs and you had the motor broke down to it. I've done this before and a few choice words and many tools were thrown into the walls. [sm=smiley35.gif]

 

Got another one for y'all. At tdc the intake valve on #1 piston is closing and the intake valve on #2 piston is now fully opened. Guesses? We have a theory that the machine shop may have put the wrong cam in the wrong head. We were told by the dodge dealership they are not the same cam. So, theories, guys?

Ang

 

Considering that on TDC on #1 the intake valve is open is incorrect. The intake valve should be opening on intake stroke and be fully closed as the compression starts. At TDC on compression strokeNO VALVE SHOULD BE OPEN! This is what gives you your compression.

I think the cam gearsare in the wrong position. I don't see any difference but there is according to the dealer like you said there are different sides.
http://www.makeitmoparparts.com/parts.htm

Price for the timing gear setup is too much. I would just replace the chain if the gears look good.

I would remove the cover making sure that the timing marks are aligned and the motor cylinder is in the right position. Double check to insure proper installation of the right and left sides. You might need to roll the motor 360 degrees and reinstall gearing.

V8 on the camshaft's should be at the 12:00 O-clock position. While looking at the camshaft sprocket the one on the left (pass side) should have the Mark next toR pointedbetween 10:00-11:00 O-clock position. The Camshaft Srocket on the right (drivers side) while looking at it should have the Mark next to L between the 01:00-02:00 position. Idler Sprocket mark should be at 12:00 O-clock position. Crank Shaft mark should be at the 06:00 O-clock position. Engine Crank Shaft Damper should be at TDC and #1 cylinder should be at TDC and not in the lower position.

Lession and do it like this. I know the Camshaft Sprockets positions look backwards but this should be correct.