Ok...so I'm driving along and everything is fine, and all of a sudden the RPMs drop to zero, then the oil pressure drops to zero, it shuts off and doesn't want to start again. the engine cranks but won't kick over, and sometimes the "check gages" light comes on. Oil looks fine, batt. looks fine... is it a sensor, maybe the fuel pump, vapor lock (all suggestion so far)? The first time this happened I was stopping at a stop sign andit started right back up. the second time (4 days later), I was full out at 40mph and around 1200rpm and it just died. it took about5-7 minutes (about 3 tries) to start again. Today (about 7days after 2nd time)itdid it again while I was accelerating out of a parking lot, and it took about 20 minutes to start, plus thistime I disconnected the battery as a suggestion from a passerby.the battery was disconnected about 5 minutes and when I connected it again it started right up and drove about 3 miles andI parked in a parking lot, picked up my daughter from daycare...so about 10 minutes it sat off...then it wouldn'tstart again...I did the battery thing again and it started...drove home about 7 miles fine, then when I left for work about 15 minutes later, it wouldn't start again...so I drove my pickup and here I am. It has a little over90,000miles btw...things I have done in the last few weeks. changed oil, used QSfull synthetic (5w-30) and fram oil filter, Flushed radiator used 50/50 fluid (engine temp avg 200deg.)...that's it.

any help would be appreciated. I have somemoney to take it in and get looked at, but no place close that I trust.

oh one more thing, NO check engine light shows, but occasionally the ABS light will come on.

 

IVT:

Could be a lot of things. First off, have your battery throughly load tested. If it is 4 or more years old, I would replace it just to be sure. Our Durangos are very sensitive to a battery that is not 100%.

The early Durangos are somewhat known for having the PCM go bad as well, and this could be your issue as well. Once the battery is ruled out, fuel pump could be it, so a pressure check is in order. Vapor lock is pretty much a non issue these days with the advent of placing the pump in the tank. As such, the whole line is pressurized instead of the old way where everything behind the pump relied on gravity.

This gives you a place to start. Get back when you have some updates, and the good crew here will be happy to provide more input.

Don

 

I disagree with the PCM n8ech

It could very well be the fuel pump relay. Under the hood on the drivers side the is a large fuse block. In this block should be the relay. Dodge put most of the relays the same part number so you can move them around to help you isolate the problem. Switch it with another that has the same part number and see if it cures your problem. If it does just get another one.

If not do a fuel pump pressure test. You should be about 52-54 lbs. If lower you probly need to do a fuel pump. The regulator, pump, and three filters are all incorporated in the pump. Checkers has it in stock but Auto Zone has a better price. Just simply price it at Auto Zone and pick it up fromCheckers.(It's been a while since I looked) It is the same pump so they will give ya the Auto Zone price. (About $150)

 

Ok, so heres where I'm at.

It happened once again, so while it was acting up, I checked everything.

First I bought a brand new battery because the other one was getting pretty old...I load tested the Alternator....fine
Pressure checked the fuel pump....fine
checked all of the relays...one was bad, but it was the towing relay...replaced it
checked all fuses...fine
Checked spark plugs...they were horrible! I replaced all of them and the plug wires just to be sure.

The plugs and wires I replaced this morning and I have only drove it about 3 miles afterwards...I did notice one thing though..before changing the plugs there was a slight "knock" in the engine when I was acclerating, that seems to have gone away.

I do have some large dental bills that just came up, so I would like totry taking care of everything I can think of myself before resorting to taking it in to the shop...any more advice would be greatly appreciated.

I did also learn that the engine is a 5.9L....

Last night it stalled again....it seems to stall when the engine temp is around 210*.... I have noticed, if I drive semi-long distances and stop for a while...everything is ok, but if I do a lot of errands...like for example, drive to the store and spend 15 minutes shopping; then drive to another store, another 15 minutes...etc...and do this fora while, then it will stall out.

It was suggested to me that I check the vaccuum hoses and to check the intake manifold and ThrottleBody for loosebolts..I did this andand every manifold bolt, most of the valve cover bolts, and the four throttle body bolts were all pretty loose..not extremely loose, but they definately needed tightening. afterwards we did a few errands (post office and 2 different stores),and in between we sat in traffic...theengine temp reached 210, andstayed there for abot 4 miles till we got home and it did not stall....I don't want toget my hopes really high that this was the final solution.. so for extra precautions.. I am going to change the oil again, but this time I will run some of the engine solvent through when I do the change, I bought a new oil pump screen and oil pan gasket..so Ican take off the oil pan and check for sludge. I am also thinking about stepping up from a 5w to a 10w oil...I have noticed that the oil pressure drops pretty low when the engine temp is hot...I know this is normal, but I would like to make sure that this is not causing problems as well.

Onelast thing, even after all of the maintenance I have done...there still is a "knock" or"ping" when I accelerate...I generally hear it theloudest at around 1500rpm....

Thank for the help

Tim

 

I believe 10-30W is the oil you should be using anyway. Never differ from OEM oil requirements. The difference is more than viscosity. There are added additives in all different oil bases that make the different weights. A motor is built with parts that the OEM factory has conducted research on. The oil manufactures are brought in and the alloys that make up you motor are tested for durability with different additives. These are the weights you need. (or additives)
Back in the day weights just meant mostly viscosity. There has always been different additives but not like today’s standards. Don't differ from OEM requirements.

The only way to differ is that the abundant temp reach's no more than 32 degrees F. Fully Synthetic Oil will flow like water to approx 78 degree's below 0 F.

In other words put the right oil in ok!

 

I've changed the oil to QS full synthetic 10w-30...the oil pressure has gone up and stays a little more stable while driving now.

Still having the stalling problem though....I just bought a brand new fuel pump. This is the last thing I can think of. I ended up finding one (brand new w/ warrenty) for $180.00...I saw some cheaper ones, but not from reputable places....I'm not taking any chances. One of the guys I work with is going to help me change it out and inspect the fuel tank bands....not an easy job he says, but not the most difficult one either.

If this doesn't work I guess I'm gonna have to take it in to the professionals...the only other thing it could be accoriding to anything I've researched is the oil pump...but that is way to big a job for me.

 

Just wondering what type of antifreeze you used?What shape is your belt for your fan in?

 

Prestone 50/50...no extraadditives... the belt is brand new, replaced about 150 miles ago.