Don't ever touch the terminals together. Residual energy is enough to blow your PCM or worse!

 

I have a cheapy reader that erases codes.

 

It's right on the front page sticky'ed on the top. Engine Code Index (Check Engine Light?)


Look at the instructions on the top of the page.

 

hey guys..I have that same code come up and I checked the hoses from the canister to the engine bay and found that the two hoses were disconnected and also cracked. I cant really tell but think that the sizes are 3/8 and 1/2. (please correct if I'm wrong). I would like to know if it would be better to replace the entire assembly or just try to fix the cracked ends? Thanks!

 

if the ends are cracked only a very short distance in and you have enough slack you can just cut off the cracked piece and put them back on, will turn off the engine light, but the problem will eventually come back, (my dads 03 dak did that every couple years it would go off and that was the fix)

 

Snipping an connecting the old hose should hold for a bit. I'd change out the whole length of hose with one rated for gasoline. That way the fumes won't rot out the new hose,

 

Some info to help diaging these codes. the system only checks evap once per drive cycle.

A drive cycle is motor cold to opperating temp. if you drive the car, park for five min & dive again, you are still running off the previous drive cycle. meaning, evap, cat,... will not self test aagain till the engine is cooled all the way back down.

Aside from misfire moniter And a couple other active inputs, two drive cycles are required to set a code, first cycle codes will set in pending & can be considered a glitch if they dont move over to main code set & trigger the light at the next drive cycle.

EVAP is a bit more complicated, it will also bypass the test if the fuel level is above 3/4 or below1/4. if you keep you vehicle full all the time it will never test, if you are perpetually below a quarter it will never test.

so you can see how a loose cap may not set a light for several days. and if corrected at the cap it's like 200 clean drive cycles for the system to drop the code. more if any of those are outside of test.

bright side, you can get an evap through emiss just by filling her up & keeping it that way while the self tests run, you can have one self test not run durring the inspection & still pass. in other words your preventing it from setting pending or hard codes while you get trough the inspection but have repaired nothing.

To find eveap leaks I use a halloween smoke maker & a small amount of compressed air. pushed in the filler neck & search for smoky tendrils escaping. pull a vac line off the intake & look for it getting in there too. very good for narrowing down evap problems.

 

I cant really tell but think that the sizes are 3/8 and 1/2. (please correct if I'm wrong).


I believe mine was 3/8 and 7/16th I used a universal coupler and small hose clamps.

 

That's why I have hoses of differing sizes in my garage.

 

yeah guys thanks for the help!
I ended up just snipping the ends of the hoses and putting them back together. I'll put up some pics later to show the problem area.

Does any one know were those hoses lead or how to get to them in case I need to replace them.?