Autolite Copper plugs ok?
#61
02-19-2009, 12:01 AM
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Hey guys,
How's it going?
I kinda have a small problem, so a little while ago, after reading this thread, i decided to go
and check the plugs on my D and it turned out that the Mechanic put Platinum plugs.
Ahhhhh, i was mad. Quick reaction and changed them.
So I bought Champion Copper plugs, Cap And Rotor, Napa only had the Premium Spark Plug Wire Set. So my small problem is that the motor still sputters little but noticeable.
Can the 5.2L Take the Premium Spark Plug Wires?
EDIT: Any help is apreciated
How's it going?
I kinda have a small problem, so a little while ago, after reading this thread, i decided to go
and check the plugs on my D and it turned out that the Mechanic put Platinum plugs.
Ahhhhh, i was mad. Quick reaction and changed them.
So I bought Champion Copper plugs, Cap And Rotor, Napa only had the Premium Spark Plug Wire Set. So my small problem is that the motor still sputters little but noticeable.
Can the 5.2L Take the Premium Spark Plug Wires?
EDIT: Any help is apreciated
Last edited by thecrow7841; 02-19-2009 at 12:12 AM.
#63
03-16-2009, 09:49 PM
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The Autolite plugs are a small step colder plug so I warn you that using them creates a different burn and therefore can create buildup.
I have seen people install them and trough a missfire usually on #7. I would incorage you to use OEM Champion Rugular plugs, Champion Truck Plugs, Or Champion Iriduim. Just depends on how much money you want to spend. I run the Champion Truck Plug before and after my MSD ignition and really like em. I replace my plugs every year or about 10k to 15k. I can usually feel the ignition and know when it's time. But make sure you replace the plugs (OEM) absolutly every 30k.
Iridium is running great so far. DO NOT USE PLATINUM! The motors were not set up for their use.
If I were you I'd take them back period! Get yourself some reg OEM plugs for a couple of dollars more. Don't forget to gap em!
I have seen people install them and trough a missfire usually on #7. I would incorage you to use OEM Champion Rugular plugs, Champion Truck Plugs, Or Champion Iriduim. Just depends on how much money you want to spend. I run the Champion Truck Plug before and after my MSD ignition and really like em. I replace my plugs every year or about 10k to 15k. I can usually feel the ignition and know when it's time. But make sure you replace the plugs (OEM) absolutly every 30k.
Iridium is running great so far. DO NOT USE PLATINUM! The motors were not set up for their use.
If I were you I'd take them back period! Get yourself some reg OEM plugs for a couple of dollars more. Don't forget to gap em!
#64
03-16-2009, 11:01 PM
Champion
#65
05-17-2010, 03:34 PM
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Glad I checked the plugs when I did..
I'm glad I checked my plugs today. I drive an '03 DD 4.7L and I stuck to the OEM plugs for replacements. So I picked up the plugs, and a gap tool. I got all the plugs changed and it looked like they were possibly the origional plugs in the vehicle. Right now it has a bit over 100K miles on it. The electrodes were worn down to around .080 to .085 of a gap. There wasn't any oil or anything on the plugs anywhere just normal wear and tear. I was currently getting 14 mpg. So, I'll check the overhead again in a week or so, and see what the mpg changes to. The only other thing I've done to my D is replace the OEM air filter with a K&N air intake filter. I know in order to get the most mpg out of it, I'd have to make changes to both ends (intake and exhaust). But with monthly payments, it's a little slow going.
But thanks to the moderators and other users on this forum for providing a platform for other D drivers. This has become a rather informative forum.
cheers!
But thanks to the moderators and other users on this forum for providing a platform for other D drivers. This has become a rather informative forum.
cheers!
#66
08-04-2010, 01:08 AM
If I am reading everything correct the champion IR will work with a 4.7? I went to champion's site and entered my info for my durango and the IR came up as working with my 4.7 with a number of 9202. However when I went to another site with my info the E9203 showed up as working with my rig not the 9202. I'm sort of confused. I'd like to use the IR as it seems to be the best to go. Any one use the IR with the 4.7?
#68
08-04-2010, 03:15 PM
Hall Of Fame
It helps us if in your questions that you place your year, motor, 4X4 or 2WD, and anything else when asking questions so that we can help you better. Some people imput it in their information under vehical so that every post has this info in it. Look at the upper right corner of this post and you will see mine. You can access this feature in the user CP link at the top left in the black banner.
Anyway I looked through and found you have a 2001, 4.7L motor.
Yes they have used it however I would ask the dealer or better yet give Champion a call and see what is the exact cross reference number for the specific plug yours takes in OEM Champion.
For instance, my truck takes a VERY strange plug a Champion QC9MC4. It has a Q on the front and that means it is a CDI Resistor verses a R which is a regular Resistor. People try and sell me a R plug and I simply walk away. You need to cross referance your OEM plug with that of Iridium and get the exact differential. This should be the Champion 9002 for your application. I would go straight with what Champion specs out.
Spark Plug Temperatures
Heat ranges are not the same between brands
How heat is dissipated
Heat range
The term spark plug heat range refers to the speed with which the plug can transfer heat from the combustion chamber to the engine head. Whether the plug is to be installed in a boat, lawnmower or racecar, it has been found the optimum combustion chamber temperature for gasoline engines is between 500°C–850°C. When it is within that range it is cool enough to avoid pre-ignition and plug tip overheating (which can cause engine damage), while still hot enough to burn off combustion deposits which cause fouling.
The spark plug can help maintain the optimum combustion chamber temperature. The primary method used to do this is by altering the internal length of the core nose, in addition, the alloy compositions in the electrodes can be changed. This means you may not be able to visually tell a difference between heat ranges. When a spark plug is referred to as a “cold plug”, it is one that transfers heat rapidly from the firing tip into the engine head, which keeps the firing tip cooler. A “hot plug” has a much slower rate of heat transfer, which keeps the firing tip hotter.
An unaltered engine will run within the optimum operating range straight from the manufacturer, but if you make modifications such as a turbo, supercharger, increase compression, timing changes, use of alternate fuels, or sustained use of nitrous oxide, these can alter the plug tip temperature and may necessitate a colder plug. A rule of thumb is, one heat range colder per modification or one heat range colder for every 75–100hp you increase. In identical spark plug types, the difference from one full heat range to the next is the ability to remove 70°C to 100°C from the combustion chamber.
The heat range numbers used by spark plug manufacturers are not universal, by that we mean, a 10 heat range in Champion is not the same as a 10 heat range in NGK. Some manufacturers numbering systems are opposite the other, for Champion, the higher the number, the hotter the plug. For other manufacturers (NGK, Denso, Bosch), the higher the number, the colder the plug.
Do not make spark plug changes at the same time as another engine modification such as injection, carburetion or timing changes as in the event of poor results, it can lead to misleading and inaccurate conclusions (an exception would be when the alternate plugs came as part of a single pre-calibrated upgrade kit). When making spark plug heat range changes, it is better to err on the side of too cold a plug. The worst thing that can happen from too cold a plug is a fouled spark plug, too hot a spark plug can cause severe engine damage
Anyway I looked through and found you have a 2001, 4.7L motor.
Yes they have used it however I would ask the dealer or better yet give Champion a call and see what is the exact cross reference number for the specific plug yours takes in OEM Champion.
For instance, my truck takes a VERY strange plug a Champion QC9MC4. It has a Q on the front and that means it is a CDI Resistor verses a R which is a regular Resistor. People try and sell me a R plug and I simply walk away. You need to cross referance your OEM plug with that of Iridium and get the exact differential. This should be the Champion 9002 for your application. I would go straight with what Champion specs out.
Spark Plug Temperatures
Heat ranges are not the same between brands
How heat is dissipated
Heat range
The term spark plug heat range refers to the speed with which the plug can transfer heat from the combustion chamber to the engine head. Whether the plug is to be installed in a boat, lawnmower or racecar, it has been found the optimum combustion chamber temperature for gasoline engines is between 500°C–850°C. When it is within that range it is cool enough to avoid pre-ignition and plug tip overheating (which can cause engine damage), while still hot enough to burn off combustion deposits which cause fouling.
The spark plug can help maintain the optimum combustion chamber temperature. The primary method used to do this is by altering the internal length of the core nose, in addition, the alloy compositions in the electrodes can be changed. This means you may not be able to visually tell a difference between heat ranges. When a spark plug is referred to as a “cold plug”, it is one that transfers heat rapidly from the firing tip into the engine head, which keeps the firing tip cooler. A “hot plug” has a much slower rate of heat transfer, which keeps the firing tip hotter.
An unaltered engine will run within the optimum operating range straight from the manufacturer, but if you make modifications such as a turbo, supercharger, increase compression, timing changes, use of alternate fuels, or sustained use of nitrous oxide, these can alter the plug tip temperature and may necessitate a colder plug. A rule of thumb is, one heat range colder per modification or one heat range colder for every 75–100hp you increase. In identical spark plug types, the difference from one full heat range to the next is the ability to remove 70°C to 100°C from the combustion chamber.
The heat range numbers used by spark plug manufacturers are not universal, by that we mean, a 10 heat range in Champion is not the same as a 10 heat range in NGK. Some manufacturers numbering systems are opposite the other, for Champion, the higher the number, the hotter the plug. For other manufacturers (NGK, Denso, Bosch), the higher the number, the colder the plug.
Do not make spark plug changes at the same time as another engine modification such as injection, carburetion or timing changes as in the event of poor results, it can lead to misleading and inaccurate conclusions (an exception would be when the alternate plugs came as part of a single pre-calibrated upgrade kit). When making spark plug heat range changes, it is better to err on the side of too cold a plug. The worst thing that can happen from too cold a plug is a fouled spark plug, too hot a spark plug can cause severe engine damage
#69
08-04-2010, 07:39 PM
