Longevity & Power Of Your Rig!
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Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 17
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From: PA
any ideas on how I could go about doing a custom CAI on my 2001 4.7L D?
the engine compartment is cramped as ****.
I should upload some pictures of it...
edit:
heres a pic of my engine compartment by the air cleaner...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...91006-1718.jpg
the engine compartment is cramped as ****.
I should upload some pictures of it...
edit:
heres a pic of my engine compartment by the air cleaner...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...91006-1718.jpg
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Hall Of Fame
Joined: Jun 2005
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From: Riverton, UT
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1
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Longevity revisited...
This has been a great thread to read, I appreciate the info everyone has put in here - I recently rediscovered my love for my paid-off 2001 5.9 R/T when I started looking at selling it and buying a full-sized truck. Here's what my D currently has:
52mm Fastman Throttle body
K&N full intake
MSD Ignition setup
H/S 1.7 roller rockers
Tri-Y headers to 3" pipe, Magnaflow muffler and Cat
Sway bars/poly bushings/Blistein shocks
So as you can see, I have added things here and there, not really focusing on specifics other than what I could afford at the time and what I thought made the most sense. The transmission was rebuilt about 30k ago, and the engine has 120k miles (burns about a quart of oil a month, whatever doesn't ooze out of the valve cover gaskets). I'm getting about 12.5 mpg in the city, so I don't think it's doing too bad as far as engines go. I'm concerned with the oil loss a little, but realize that's probably par for an engine that old.
This winter season was rough, because the switching mechanism to go between AWD and 4WH was stuck in the 4WH mode, and I ended up running the transmission in 4WH longer and at speeds that I wouldn't normally do. After they found the loose wire and fixed it, I had a horrendous sound that I would hear especially when I had the truck in reverse in 4WD, but there was definitely an ugly "transmission-type" sound in AWD as well, and I feared the worst, that I ruined the tranny. Turns out that it was only the joint for the front axle from the tranny, so $600 later it sounds and works well again, and I'm starting to think about what needs to be done to make my truck last another 200k miles.
In the next 18-24 months, I am looking at rebuilding the engine (mind you, I can't do any of this work myself). Suggestions would always be appreciated, but I'm leaning towards having a local reputable engine shop do the whole thing, and if they can "bore it out", "hone it", "shot-peen it", get some better-than-OEM parts, whatever the jargon is that means make it better than new and bulletproof for 200k, and keep the cost under $3000.00 (just an estimate from everything I have read), I think I'd be happy.
Before I rebuild the engine, I am thinking about the tranny. From what I have read, it seems the best thing I can do with a stock 46RE is to install a "shift kit" (Trans-Go the best?), and maybe install an oversized transmission pan as well (seems to be a few different ones available, if there is one that does NOT require any adaptation/removal of fins, etc to fit my 2001 5.9 R/T that would be great). The transmission hasn't been serviced for 30k, as well as the issue I had with it over the winter, so I'm thinking maybe it needs "tightening" (I admittedly know NOTHING about transmissions).
Does anyone know what kind of cost I am looking at if I am going to have basic "30k" service done on the transmission, as well as installing a shift kit? I understand the cost of the pan/gasket would be separate, unless they have to do any work to it to make it fit. Also, any other suggestions for the transmission other than what I've stated? Are these things that a regular mechanic at a shop could do, or should I go to some specialty transmission shop? Appreciate any help you guys can provide!
52mm Fastman Throttle body
K&N full intake
MSD Ignition setup
H/S 1.7 roller rockers
Tri-Y headers to 3" pipe, Magnaflow muffler and Cat
Sway bars/poly bushings/Blistein shocks
So as you can see, I have added things here and there, not really focusing on specifics other than what I could afford at the time and what I thought made the most sense. The transmission was rebuilt about 30k ago, and the engine has 120k miles (burns about a quart of oil a month, whatever doesn't ooze out of the valve cover gaskets). I'm getting about 12.5 mpg in the city, so I don't think it's doing too bad as far as engines go. I'm concerned with the oil loss a little, but realize that's probably par for an engine that old.
This winter season was rough, because the switching mechanism to go between AWD and 4WH was stuck in the 4WH mode, and I ended up running the transmission in 4WH longer and at speeds that I wouldn't normally do. After they found the loose wire and fixed it, I had a horrendous sound that I would hear especially when I had the truck in reverse in 4WD, but there was definitely an ugly "transmission-type" sound in AWD as well, and I feared the worst, that I ruined the tranny. Turns out that it was only the joint for the front axle from the tranny, so $600 later it sounds and works well again, and I'm starting to think about what needs to be done to make my truck last another 200k miles.
In the next 18-24 months, I am looking at rebuilding the engine (mind you, I can't do any of this work myself). Suggestions would always be appreciated, but I'm leaning towards having a local reputable engine shop do the whole thing, and if they can "bore it out", "hone it", "shot-peen it", get some better-than-OEM parts, whatever the jargon is that means make it better than new and bulletproof for 200k, and keep the cost under $3000.00 (just an estimate from everything I have read), I think I'd be happy.
Before I rebuild the engine, I am thinking about the tranny. From what I have read, it seems the best thing I can do with a stock 46RE is to install a "shift kit" (Trans-Go the best?), and maybe install an oversized transmission pan as well (seems to be a few different ones available, if there is one that does NOT require any adaptation/removal of fins, etc to fit my 2001 5.9 R/T that would be great). The transmission hasn't been serviced for 30k, as well as the issue I had with it over the winter, so I'm thinking maybe it needs "tightening" (I admittedly know NOTHING about transmissions).
Does anyone know what kind of cost I am looking at if I am going to have basic "30k" service done on the transmission, as well as installing a shift kit? I understand the cost of the pan/gasket would be separate, unless they have to do any work to it to make it fit. Also, any other suggestions for the transmission other than what I've stated? Are these things that a regular mechanic at a shop could do, or should I go to some specialty transmission shop? Appreciate any help you guys can provide!
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 11
Likes: 1
For every rule(s) there are exceptions. I have a 98 Durango with the 5.2 l and have just turned 330,500 miles. In the summer I tow a 19.5' ski boat. ALL of the drive train components are original with a rear pinion seal replacement being the sole repair. I have had @ a dealer transmission flush with new fluid @ 45K intervals. I have the transefer case and front/rear axles drained/refilled also at 45K intervals. I change oil/filter every 3K using 10W-30 (non-synthetic). I use approx 1/4 qt. between changes. Tunes ups at approx 100-110 K intervals using Champion platinum plugs. I have a high flow K&N filter which I keep clean. Once/year radiator and heater core flush. My milage is the same as new 15 city/18 hwy. I have replaced once: waterpump, fuel pump, alternator, exhaust/cat.converter, ball joints, front wheel bearings, air conditioner evaporator. Keeping all fluids clean has the biggest payback for longevity.
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Hall Of Fame
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 14,228
Likes: 19
From: Riverton, UT
If you are looking into exterior then you are in the incorrect thread. This thread is for longevity and over all power, not exterior components.
CENTRAL TIMER MODULE
Before replacing a high-line Central Timer Module (CTM), use a DRB scan tool to determine the current settings for the CTM programmable features. These settings should be duplicated in the replacement CTM using the DRB scan tool, before returning the vehicle to service.
WARNING: ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AIRBAGS, Refer to PASSIVE RESTRAINT SYSTEMS BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY STEERING WHEEL, STEERING COLUMN, OR INSTRUMENT PANEL COMPONENT DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. FAILURE TO TAKE THE PROPER PRECAUTIONS COULD RESULT IN ACCIDENTAL AIRBAG DEPLOYMENT AND POSSIBLE PERSONAL INJURY.
Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
Remove the glove box from the instrument panel. See Glove Box in the Removal and Installation section of this group for the procedures.
Remove the three screws that secure the bracket to the outboard side of the instrument panel glove box opening Central Timer Module Remove/Install
Remove the two screws that secure the Central Timer Module (CTM) mounting bracket to the outboard instrument panel glove box opening bracket.
Remove the outboard glove box opening bracket from the instrument panel through the glove box opening.
Pull the CTM and its mounting bracket into the glove box opening far enough to access and disengage the wire harness retainer from the CTM mounting bracket.
Unplug the wire harness connector(s) (one connector for the base CTM, two connectors for high-line CTM) from the CTM.
Remove the CTM from the instrument panel.
Reverse the removal procedures to install. Be certain to engage the mounting tab on the outboard side of the CTM mounting bracket with the slot in the right instrument panel end bracket. Tighten the CTM and mounting bracket screws to 2.2 N·m (20 in. lbs.)
NOTE: If a new high-line Central Timer Module is installed, the programmable features must be enabled and/or disabled to the customer's preferred settings. Use a DRB scan tool and the proper Diagnostic Procedures manual to perform these operations.
Before replacing a high-line Central Timer Module (CTM), use a DRB scan tool to determine the current settings for the CTM programmable features. These settings should be duplicated in the replacement CTM using the DRB scan tool, before returning the vehicle to service.
WARNING: ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AIRBAGS, Refer to PASSIVE RESTRAINT SYSTEMS BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY STEERING WHEEL, STEERING COLUMN, OR INSTRUMENT PANEL COMPONENT DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. FAILURE TO TAKE THE PROPER PRECAUTIONS COULD RESULT IN ACCIDENTAL AIRBAG DEPLOYMENT AND POSSIBLE PERSONAL INJURY.
Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
Remove the glove box from the instrument panel. See Glove Box in the Removal and Installation section of this group for the procedures.
Remove the three screws that secure the bracket to the outboard side of the instrument panel glove box opening Central Timer Module Remove/Install
Remove the two screws that secure the Central Timer Module (CTM) mounting bracket to the outboard instrument panel glove box opening bracket.
Remove the outboard glove box opening bracket from the instrument panel through the glove box opening.
Pull the CTM and its mounting bracket into the glove box opening far enough to access and disengage the wire harness retainer from the CTM mounting bracket.
Unplug the wire harness connector(s) (one connector for the base CTM, two connectors for high-line CTM) from the CTM.
Remove the CTM from the instrument panel.
Reverse the removal procedures to install. Be certain to engage the mounting tab on the outboard side of the CTM mounting bracket with the slot in the right instrument panel end bracket. Tighten the CTM and mounting bracket screws to 2.2 N·m (20 in. lbs.)
NOTE: If a new high-line Central Timer Module is installed, the programmable features must be enabled and/or disabled to the customer's preferred settings. Use a DRB scan tool and the proper Diagnostic Procedures manual to perform these operations.
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Joined: Feb 2011
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i want more hp and trq
i have a 99 slt 5.9 durango 4x4. it was a police vehicle before i got it. i replaced the tranny installed shift kit cut off the cat. converter. put flowmaster series 40. replaced fan and fan clutch with eletric fan. and put the recangle k&n filter. i want more power and trq. any easy DIY and low cost ideas to make more hp and trq?