Longevity & Power Of Your Rig!

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Jan 16, 2009 | 07:25 PM

#41

hydrashocker

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From: Riverton, UT

Quote:

Originally Posted by Facory

I use Mobil 1 fully synthetic oil and change it every 5,000 miles. The K&N filter gets cleaned as needed. The transmission is power flushed every 35,000 miles. No need to disturb the pan or change the filter. The power flush pushes all of the contaminats out of the filter and ALL of the fluid is changed. This costs $87.50 at a local shop or $165 at the local Dodge dealer. Simple choice there! I have also changed all of the power steering fluid twice in 110,000 miles along with all of the brake fluid. Serpentine belt is changed every 35-40,000 miles along with the plugs. I have not opened up the rear differential and won't until I sense a chatter or slip in the LSD. That's about it. No problems yet.

I'm sorry to burst your bubble. ( well realy I'm not )

First..... A power flush is really bad on the transmission dude. This is well documented that it leads to premature transmission failure because it blows seals in factual findings of OEM trany's. This is the concept of the shift kit and it's support to the trans.

Second...... A power flush does nothing for the filter but blow **** all the way through the system insted of catching it......... I have personally completed multipul tests on this subject and when the pressure opened up it's right there....... DO NOT DO THIS!

Third..... You have to replace the fluid, the filter, clean the magnet, and adjust the bands where applicable. You HAVE to drop the pan not to mention when they do the power flush they use multi vehical transmission fluid and not the correct fluid because of expense. If you read the owners manuals or any of the TSB's on the trany's it will tell you to only use the right fluid built for Chrysler PERIOD!

To even think that you never have to drop the pan is pure BS!

Now for the gearing...... HELLO!

Why would you not follow the manufactures recomendations. You already follow most of the rest. To allow your fluid to become tainted can surely blow the gears. Example; If you drive through deep water it can access the fluid tainting it. Also not all D's came with the optional Limited Slip Rear Gearing. If someone waits until they hear noise the damage is done. One thing one can do is replace the fluid with Full Synthetic lubricate and add friction modifier if they have the limited slip gearing.

I don't want to burn ya on this but it doesn't make any sense.

Jan 17, 2009 | 12:02 PM

#42

Facory

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Points well taken

Jan 17, 2009 | 03:55 PM

#43

hydrashocker

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From: Riverton, UT

Again, I don't mean to burn on ya but would rather help. You do bring up a great point tho. Replacing all the fluid is the right thing to do and that being said one can install a oil plug into the transmission pan for great access and help in draining the fluid instead of always having to drop the pan. B&M makes these.
http://www.bmracing.com/s.nl/it.A/id.293/.f

Drain Plug Kit

Only a few automatic transmissions are equipped with drain plugs from the factory removing the pan to drain the fluid can be a mess. Simply remove the pan once, drill a hole, bolt the B&M Drain Plug Kit in, and eliminate messy oil splash forever. Non-magnetic.

80250

Also bringing up the brake fluid and power steering fluid that is often overlooked. The brake fluid should be replaced by vacuuming out the resevior and replacing the fluid then bleeding the brake system fully. The brake fluid in accually only ever goes back and forth in the lines heating and cooling and never making it back to the resevior.

Also replacing the steering fluid was a great point!

Jan 18, 2009 | 11:41 AM

#44

DRO318

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From: Dallas, Tx

+2 on the Trans fluid replacement. X that B.S. "Power Flush"
Every time i've had that service done to any of my vehicles the trans has failed. Time and time again the mechanics tell people that it's a great service. People look mechanics are true indeed salesmen for the services that they provide. Can anyone tell me how it makes sense not to change a filter with 30K+ on it?
Also that whole pressure test on the coolant system is sure to blow any week cooling components like heater core, radiator,freeze plugs, etc. simply drain fluid and flush out heater core(s) refill with antifreeze not water and your on your way.
I have notice a diff in steering when I changed the power steering fluid in the past. it's smoother and more stable

Jan 18, 2009 | 01:07 PM

#45

hydrashocker

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From: Riverton, UT

Great ideas.

As a great idea when replacing the antifreeze always use regular green style antifreeze and mix it to manufacture's specifications. Remember to only use Distilled Water to help keep minerals out of the cooling system which add in deposits and corrosion of internal parts. Never use regular water if you can.

Jan 18, 2009 | 01:31 PM

#46

DRO318

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From: Dallas, Tx

Y yes oh great Moderator Of Madness... Like the title change dude.

Jan 18, 2009 | 02:03 PM

#47

hydrashocker

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From: Riverton, UT

I thought it was a kinda funny title I gave myself after the move....LOL

Aug 22, 2009 | 01:09 AM

#48

hydrashocker

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From: Riverton, UT

I want to include this Intake Manifold into this section. It's not perfect but it brings up a follow up of a comment I made about the Edelbrock Air-Gap Intake Manifold:

Hughes Custom Performance Intake Manifold
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...-manifold.html

Quote:

Originally Posted by hydrashocker

I found this in this mornings Deseret Paper (Utah Rides) but could not find a link to it so I typed the artical so here it is!

The parts Dept crew recently built and tested a 5.9-leter (360-cubic inch) that made 527 horsepower at 6300 rpm using a Edelbrock Performer RPM Air Gap intake manifold (as well as a matching cylinder heads and a healthy roller camshaft. The peak horsepower and torque output (474 ft) compared with the larger 7.0-leter engine found in the benchmark Chev Corvette ZO6. It’s actually a very basic pump-gas-friendly combination (9.8:1 compression) that performed better than it did using a race-bred intake manifold in terms of peak power while delivering more torque and using less fuel in the process. What could be better? The NASCAR Edition Performer RPM Air Gap, of course, which has a smooth black finish as opposed to the usual rough cast finish. The special manifold is available for Chev, Ford, and Chrysler applications. Visit www.edelbrock.com

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/mc/manifolds/chrysler/rpm_air_gap-sb.shtml

Now this is what I'm talking about here guy's and a very close match I might add! The problem here is octane I would assume.

I was far off on the compression on my motor tho so my bad.