Hello All,
just a question on the temp.

the q. is : is there any difference in their engines , i mean between the D 03 and D 00 ? because my D 03 is always 1/3 the guage in temp. while the 00 is not steady, it goes to 1/4 max. in summer but in winter and cold weather or when it runs off the road reaches 55 F.

both has 195 F. T-Stat. ?

so what do you think the reason?

thanks.
Jo.

 

I'm thinking that your t-stat may be stuck open in the 00'. Does it take a long time to get to the temp it's operating at?

The coolant temp sensor could be off on one of them. With the 195 in my D my temp needle barely touches the edge of the 2 in 210.

I'm really leaning toward your t-stat being stuck.

 

There has been issues reported that the bypass flows too much water and therefore dosn't allow full warm up in the winter.

My rig falls into this catagory.

 

Mean Green, our 2000 D temp. guage starts from 55 and in the mid 95 and at last 125 C.

so it might be different as this one is Middle East Specefication.. so the D 00 T-stat was checked and not stuck and working fine..but the temp. needle bearly exceeds the other 5 of the 55 and it gets back when off the road.

hydrashocker, seems you didn't get me guys, but i think that the engines are not same though they are all Magnum.

Thanks and hope to hearing from you

 

If they are both 5.9L then they are the same period. The only difference between the two is the octane requirement. The 00 will have a premium fuel only ( 91 octane requirement ) because of the computer tune and roomers of head displacement on some reported engines. The octane requirement does not apply to the 03 model, and for that reason I would choose the 03 model. But keep in mind that this is only on the RT model.

Also some of the features did change slightly like you are noteing.

 

Mine takes regular old 87 hydra as it is the SLT. Words you should have mentioned that this was in C not F. I was all lost. I still say it is an issue with the 00'. Try spinning the mechanical fan. If it spins fairly easily look into getting a new fan clutch for it (this is most likely your issue now that you have looked at the t-stat and I understand your problem a little better) You should also look into cleaning the radiator off. If there is a lot of dirt and debirs in the fins this will inhibit the cooling capability of your D. Next how often do you flush the cooling system? Typically this should be done at least bi-annually or if you buy the 5 year prestone then every 5 years/100K miles or 50K miles I can't remember now.

 

hydrashocker, thanks for the info. but i have no problem with the fuel, I use 91 Octane and the full tank of my D 03 costs me 8 USD. very cheap right, because I'm in Saudi Arabia, and it's really very cheap here.

Mean Green, seems you didn't get me , yes, there is a difference between the two engines of the D 00 and D 03, the D 00 doesn't get warmed to 195 F (90 C) and I can prove this by seeing the needle always near the first dash which 55 is written on, but my D 03 is always on the 1/3, the needle is between the first and middle dashes.

so , the question, if I'm sure that I have 195 F. T-Stat in the D 00 , why the needle doesn't show this, it's always either on the first dash (55 C) or between the 95 C and the 55 C in the extreme hot weather only, and it gets back to around 55 a lil bit more when driving off the road.

I believe that the best D in the 1 Generation is Model 2000.

and by the way, is it really ok that my D 03 has 195 F. which means around 90 C, near to boiling level in my engine, i think this damages hoses and brings many troubles like leaking in the weather, I changed my Radiator 3 times because of the hot weather, and I'm praying not to change it again.. otherwise i will sell it and buy 2000 D if you guys recommend so.

thanks .

 

The engines are exactly the same as you have stated they are both 5.9's. You have a slightly better tune on the 00 as the 03 was pretty much badging and shocks on the 03.

I think I got ya now. Sorry I never deal with C. So the 00' seems to be overcooling. Since you had the t-stat checked out and it isn't stuck I think I'll go with hydra on this one with the bypass letting too much water past or my original thought which would be the coolant temp sensor being the issue.

As far as the D running near boiling temp it's a non issue as coolant is inherently going to raise the boiling point of the liquid (as long as the mix is right) and the system operates under pressure which also raises the boiling point. That is why if you remove the radiator cap you get a coolant geyser. The pressure has been removed from the system allowing the coolant to boil.

 

The 5.9L was never ment to run at 195 F. It was ment to run at 180 F. Emissions sent the 5.9L up to that temp but with the metal heads is NOT good for them. Install a 180 F. T-stat.

There is a different explanation that can be wrong. If the T-stat neck is worn out (metal) then you can buy a new one and make sure water isn't going around the connection between the manifold/T-stat/neck connection. Sinse the intake manifold is alumimum. This fix is $8 for a new neck at the dealer.

There was some models of the R/T in 2000 that needed to run on 91 octane only considering their tune and if your is a R/T then it should tell you on the fill cap or the fuel gauge.

Also the sending unit could be bad. You should verify that the temp is really that cold and not just a miss-hap in controls or sending unit.

My truck runs that cold and the only explanation even after boreing it is the bypass being too big.