Temp Issue
Champion
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,822
Likes: 4
From: Indiana
tbasse,
If you have changed out over 100 stats in 4.7s... then I would assume that they are factory stats. THUS... they would all have the weep hole since they are stockers. Exactly as I indicated.
Now, if you have changed out over 100 stats in 4.7s and they are aftermarket stats... then again exactly as I stated, go with the stocker as choice #1 and you probably wouldn't be swapping them out as frequently.
Buyer beware. Not all stats are created equal and not all weep holes are created equal either. Also, never alter the checkball bearing. It is there for a designed purpose.
From the guy I consider MY defacto guru on 4.7s in the Durango and the guy I have learned my 4.7 mantras from (he's also my friend and the most trustworthy 4.7 owner I know. If he says it re: 4.7s, it's so)...
IndyDurango
If you have changed out over 100 stats in 4.7s... then I would assume that they are factory stats. THUS... they would all have the weep hole since they are stockers. Exactly as I indicated.
Now, if you have changed out over 100 stats in 4.7s and they are aftermarket stats... then again exactly as I stated, go with the stocker as choice #1 and you probably wouldn't be swapping them out as frequently.
Buyer beware. Not all stats are created equal and not all weep holes are created equal either. Also, never alter the checkball bearing. It is there for a designed purpose.
From the guy I consider MY defacto guru on 4.7s in the Durango and the guy I have learned my 4.7 mantras from (he's also my friend and the most trustworthy 4.7 owner I know. If he says it re: 4.7s, it's so)...
Originally Posted by FSTDANGO3
Posted: Fri 06/09/06 07:49 pm EDT, @ the DOC:
By a fluke, I met an engineer from DiamlerChrysler today while at the dealer's part counter (He was there for a Hemi "claim of failure" and, as he stated, found the engine blown to shreds by NOS!) When I asked for a new O-ring for my stat he asked, "Why do you need that?" I answered that mine was no longer any good and he said it should never go bad, it was made for life!
We then got into a longer conversation about the 4.7 engine and he explained the factory stat, including why it has an odd shape and the purpose of the bleeder hole.
It's shaped the way it is because it goes thru 2 areas of the front plate and the little point fits in a small area that's way in there. He said aftermarket 180s, 190s, or whatever, aren't designed specifically for this engine and, although it probably won't overheat, it'd likely see a lot of temperature fluctuation causing the gauge to move around a bit as the temps go up & down and the PCM a bit of confusion. He convinced me to put a factory stat & new O-ring back in (comes as one piece BTW) and give it a shot. If it doesn't work correctly, he's authorized the dealer to take it back for a refund!
So I installed the new (195 stocker) stat, burped my baby, and took her out for a beating! I flooring it up some hills in low gear and intentionally got into traffic for a bit (had the A/C on entire time) and the temp gauge went to just 1/16" below center and stayed there. Didn't go up or down just stayed steady! With the 180 stat in it, the temp would go up to the same spot but then go up & down, sometimes even making it to dead center at 210. Weird I know, but there's definitely some significance to the Tstat's shape and the little bleeder check ball!
By a fluke, I met an engineer from DiamlerChrysler today while at the dealer's part counter (He was there for a Hemi "claim of failure" and, as he stated, found the engine blown to shreds by NOS!) When I asked for a new O-ring for my stat he asked, "Why do you need that?" I answered that mine was no longer any good and he said it should never go bad, it was made for life!
We then got into a longer conversation about the 4.7 engine and he explained the factory stat, including why it has an odd shape and the purpose of the bleeder hole.
It's shaped the way it is because it goes thru 2 areas of the front plate and the little point fits in a small area that's way in there. He said aftermarket 180s, 190s, or whatever, aren't designed specifically for this engine and, although it probably won't overheat, it'd likely see a lot of temperature fluctuation causing the gauge to move around a bit as the temps go up & down and the PCM a bit of confusion. He convinced me to put a factory stat & new O-ring back in (comes as one piece BTW) and give it a shot. If it doesn't work correctly, he's authorized the dealer to take it back for a refund!
So I installed the new (195 stocker) stat, burped my baby, and took her out for a beating! I flooring it up some hills in low gear and intentionally got into traffic for a bit (had the A/C on entire time) and the temp gauge went to just 1/16" below center and stayed there. Didn't go up or down just stayed steady! With the 180 stat in it, the temp would go up to the same spot but then go up & down, sometimes even making it to dead center at 210. Weird I know, but there's definitely some significance to the Tstat's shape and the little bleeder check ball!
Last edited by IndyDurango; Feb 18, 2009 at 12:33 AM.
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Registered User
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Simpsonville, SC
Just wanted to give an update on my temp issue:
Friday I replaced the fan clutch & cleaned out some debris that was stuck between the A/C coil and the trans cooler coil. Drove it all weekend in 70+ degree weather, on the hwy and in town, and everything was groovy.
Now yesterday (Monday) it was 87 Degrees outside. I was driving home from work on the hwy. The temp passed the 210 mark. I turned on my heat. The temp dropped back to normal, and was fine as soon as I was off of the highway. I drove to work this morning no problems. So now I'm going to replace the thermostat and burp the cooling system.
Any other suggestions?
Friday I replaced the fan clutch & cleaned out some debris that was stuck between the A/C coil and the trans cooler coil. Drove it all weekend in 70+ degree weather, on the hwy and in town, and everything was groovy.
Now yesterday (Monday) it was 87 Degrees outside. I was driving home from work on the hwy. The temp passed the 210 mark. I turned on my heat. The temp dropped back to normal, and was fine as soon as I was off of the highway. I drove to work this morning no problems. So now I'm going to replace the thermostat and burp the cooling system.
Any other suggestions?
Veteran
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 250
Likes: 0
From: MASSACHUSETTS
What coolant to water ratio are you running and have you thought about switchin to the extented life coolant instead of the old green garbage? One other idea,did you pressure test the cooling system? Replace the cap on the radiator too= I seen where it doesn't keep the proper pressure of 9-13 lbs and the coolant pours back and forth in the "puke tank. Cooling systems need pressure especially the newer ones to run at the specific temp prperly.
Veteran
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 250
Likes: 0
From: MASSACHUSETTS
I used to work on forklifts alot=Ya'd be surprised at how many rad cap springs gone bad lead to overheats and cooling problems. And also distributors coming loose and timing gettin advance too far.