1999 Dodge Durango Stalling while driving please help
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1999 Dodge Durango Stalling while driving please help
Hello everyone,
Basically My husband and I have a 1999 Dodge Durango, that apparently just shuts off while driving. Seems to always do it, with our two kids in the car. Steering goes stiff as well as brakes, it sounds as if it gives extra revs. No BUS does come one, but not all the time. We have been stalling so much lately, that we are afraid to even do things as a family. Of course the economy is tight so getting another vehicle, and playing guess that problem is not an option.
I have read that try the PCM, ECU, the crank shaft sensor etc...Every problem sounds the same, but have a different outcome. It either works or it dont. I dont know much about cars. I know enough, but not enough? anyways. Being that this is our only means of transportation. Im pleading with anyone on advice.
Evidently if diagnostics wont help me, where do we start? I do know when the vehicle is first started up, it works perfectly. My husband gets to work just fine. Parks for ten hours comes home (15 min drive) vehicle works fine. Its always when we go to do things works fine for a few hours, then starts to act up. I guess because its heated. Then we get stuck for a few minutes, sitting praying that no vehicle hits us. electrical all working, when the problem first occured, it would start up immediately, now..it takes a while before it even turns on. And when it does, its like chitty chitty bang bang, you feel and hear the difference. as if its struggling. Then we sit and rest. If we are far from home, we brake and gas at stop lights. in neutral it used to start right up. Now..its worse.
We really need help. It is like a death trap. If someone could please tell me where to start.
thank you so much.
rena
Basically My husband and I have a 1999 Dodge Durango, that apparently just shuts off while driving. Seems to always do it, with our two kids in the car. Steering goes stiff as well as brakes, it sounds as if it gives extra revs. No BUS does come one, but not all the time. We have been stalling so much lately, that we are afraid to even do things as a family. Of course the economy is tight so getting another vehicle, and playing guess that problem is not an option.
I have read that try the PCM, ECU, the crank shaft sensor etc...Every problem sounds the same, but have a different outcome. It either works or it dont. I dont know much about cars. I know enough, but not enough? anyways. Being that this is our only means of transportation. Im pleading with anyone on advice.
Evidently if diagnostics wont help me, where do we start? I do know when the vehicle is first started up, it works perfectly. My husband gets to work just fine. Parks for ten hours comes home (15 min drive) vehicle works fine. Its always when we go to do things works fine for a few hours, then starts to act up. I guess because its heated. Then we get stuck for a few minutes, sitting praying that no vehicle hits us. electrical all working, when the problem first occured, it would start up immediately, now..it takes a while before it even turns on. And when it does, its like chitty chitty bang bang, you feel and hear the difference. as if its struggling. Then we sit and rest. If we are far from home, we brake and gas at stop lights. in neutral it used to start right up. Now..its worse.
We really need help. It is like a death trap. If someone could please tell me where to start.
thank you so much.
rena
All Star
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 882
Likes: 3
From: Lebanon, IN
Most likely your PCM is bad.
No Bus is a dead give away for this, and the most common fix seems to be replacing the PCM.. Take it to the dealer and they will try to rip you off $600 to have it replaced... Buy one online for around $200-250 and it takes 10 minutes to replace yourself. something like 3 screws and a few plugs and your done. disconnect the battery neg cable during the removal and install. (it is that little silver box that sits on the inside of the passenger fender with wires going to it)
Before you head off and buy a new PCM make sure all the connections to it are clean and well connected, doubt it but you may just get lucky and it be that, most likely you need a new PCM though
Places like this
http://www.autocomputerexchange.com/...Durango/1999/1
You will have to give them your millage and your VIN before they ship it to you in order for them to program it in. If you buy it from a place that does not do the programing such as a junkyard you will need to take it to the dealer and they will do it for around $60
They say that the TPS, MAP, cam and crank sensor can also cause a no bus. most common of those being the crankshaft position sensor
I personally never heard of a Crankshaft Position Sensor having a intermittent problem, they always have been bad or not.. So,far as I know if it is bad there is no cooling down and it going again for several hours again.
I found this on another site once and saved it. If you have a volt/ohm meter you can follow the test here and find the problem.(only problem is the testing would only work when it will not start, meaning there is no issue showing up till the problem occurs and the truck will not start.)
My money is on the PCM being bad.
No Bus is a dead give away for this, and the most common fix seems to be replacing the PCM.. Take it to the dealer and they will try to rip you off $600 to have it replaced... Buy one online for around $200-250 and it takes 10 minutes to replace yourself. something like 3 screws and a few plugs and your done. disconnect the battery neg cable during the removal and install. (it is that little silver box that sits on the inside of the passenger fender with wires going to it)
Before you head off and buy a new PCM make sure all the connections to it are clean and well connected, doubt it but you may just get lucky and it be that, most likely you need a new PCM though
Places like this
http://www.autocomputerexchange.com/...Durango/1999/1
You will have to give them your millage and your VIN before they ship it to you in order for them to program it in. If you buy it from a place that does not do the programing such as a junkyard you will need to take it to the dealer and they will do it for around $60
They say that the TPS, MAP, cam and crank sensor can also cause a no bus. most common of those being the crankshaft position sensor
I personally never heard of a Crankshaft Position Sensor having a intermittent problem, they always have been bad or not.. So,far as I know if it is bad there is no cooling down and it going again for several hours again.
I found this on another site once and saved it. If you have a volt/ohm meter you can follow the test here and find the problem.(only problem is the testing would only work when it will not start, meaning there is no issue showing up till the problem occurs and the truck will not start.)
My money is on the PCM being bad.
Symptom: Engine will not start. Gauges are inoperative. No BUS message displayed on odometer.
System: Body/Chassis Electrical, Emissions/PCM/Fuel, Engine Electrical
Codes: N/A
Problem 1 of 6: The 5v power supply from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is shorted due to a shorted Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor.
Test & Fix: If the 5v power supply circuit is shorted to ground, the CCD bus is unable to transmit messages and the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) appears to be "dead". The PCM is not damaged when the 5v power supply gets shorted to ground, but does need to be reset by turning the key off for 10 second after the short is removed. Using a DVOM or labscope, measure the voltage on the 5v reference wire at the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) or Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor. If 5v is not present, unplug the Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor. Turn the key off for 10 seconds. Turn the key on and measure the voltage on the 5v power supply circuit. If the voltage is now 5v, replace the CKP sensor.
Problem 2 of 6: The 5v power supply from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is shorted due to a shorted Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor.
Test & Fix: If the 5v power supply circuit is shorted to ground, the CCD bus is unable to transmit messages and the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) appears to be "dead". The PCM is not damaged when the 5v power supply gets shorted to ground, but does need to be reset by turning the key off for 10 second after the short is removed. Using a DVOM or labscope, measure the voltage on the 5v reference wire at the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) or Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor. If 5v is not present, unplug the Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor. Turn the key off for 10 seconds. Turn the key on and measure the voltage on the 5v power supply circuit. If the voltage is now 5v, replace the CMP sensor.
Problem 3 of 6: The 5v power supply from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is shorted due to a shorted Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor.
Test & Fix: If the 5v power supply circuit is shorted to ground, the CCD bus is unable to transmit messages and the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) appears to be "dead". The PCM is not damaged when the 5v power supply gets shorted to ground, but does need to be reset by turning the key off for 10 second after the short is removed. Using a DVOM or labscope, measure the voltage on the 5v reference wire (5v power supply) at the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) or Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor. If 5v is not present, unplug the MAP sensor. Turn the key off for 10 seconds. Turn the key on and measure the voltage on the 5v power supply circuit. If the voltage is now 5v, replace the MAP sensor.
Problem 4 of 6: The 5v power supply from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is shorted due to a shorted Throttle Position Sensor (TPS).
Test & Fix: If the 5v power supply circuit is shorted to ground, the CCD bus is unable to transmit messages and the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) appears to be "dead". The PCM is not damaged when the 5v power supply gets shorted to ground, but does need to be reset by turning the key off for 10 second after the short is removed. Using a DVOM or labscope, measure the voltage on the 5v reference wire (5 volt power supply) at the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) or Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor. If 5v is not present, unplug the TPS. Turn the key off for 10 seconds. Turn the key on and measure the voltage on the 5v power supply circuit. If the voltage is now 5v, replace the TPS.
Problem 5 of 6: The 5v power supply from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is shorted due to a shorted wire.
Test & Fix: If the 5v power supply circuit is shorted to ground, the CCD bus is unable to transmit messages and the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) appears to be "dead". The PCM is not damaged when the 5v power supply gets shorted to ground, but does need to be reset by turning the key off for 10 second after the short is removed. Using a DVOM or labscope, measure the voltage on the 5v reference wire at the throttle position sensor (TPS) or manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor. If 5v is not present, unplug all sensors that are connected to the 5v power supply and disconnect the PCM. Check if either 5v power supply circuit is shorted to ground using a DVOM. If the circuit is found to be shorted to ground, repair the wire and the cause of the short.
Problem 6 of 6: The 5v power supply from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is shorted due to a shorted Governor Pressure Sensor.
Test & Fix: If the 5v power supply circuit is shorted to ground, the CCD bus is unable to transmit messages and the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) appears to be "dead". The PCM is not damaged when the 5v power supply gets shorted to ground, but does need to be reset by turning the key off for 10 second after the short is removed. Using a DVOM or labscope, measure the voltage on the 5v reference wire at the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) or Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor. If 5v is not present, unplug the large round connector on the driver's side of the transmission. Turn the key off for 10 seconds. Turn the key on and measure the voltage on the 5v power supply circuit. If the voltage is now 5v, remove the transmission pan and check for shorted wiring inside the transmission. If the wiring is OK, replace the Governor Pressure Sensor.
System: Body/Chassis Electrical, Emissions/PCM/Fuel, Engine Electrical
Codes: N/A
Problem 1 of 6: The 5v power supply from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is shorted due to a shorted Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor.
Test & Fix: If the 5v power supply circuit is shorted to ground, the CCD bus is unable to transmit messages and the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) appears to be "dead". The PCM is not damaged when the 5v power supply gets shorted to ground, but does need to be reset by turning the key off for 10 second after the short is removed. Using a DVOM or labscope, measure the voltage on the 5v reference wire at the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) or Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor. If 5v is not present, unplug the Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor. Turn the key off for 10 seconds. Turn the key on and measure the voltage on the 5v power supply circuit. If the voltage is now 5v, replace the CKP sensor.
Problem 2 of 6: The 5v power supply from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is shorted due to a shorted Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor.
Test & Fix: If the 5v power supply circuit is shorted to ground, the CCD bus is unable to transmit messages and the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) appears to be "dead". The PCM is not damaged when the 5v power supply gets shorted to ground, but does need to be reset by turning the key off for 10 second after the short is removed. Using a DVOM or labscope, measure the voltage on the 5v reference wire at the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) or Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor. If 5v is not present, unplug the Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor. Turn the key off for 10 seconds. Turn the key on and measure the voltage on the 5v power supply circuit. If the voltage is now 5v, replace the CMP sensor.
Problem 3 of 6: The 5v power supply from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is shorted due to a shorted Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor.
Test & Fix: If the 5v power supply circuit is shorted to ground, the CCD bus is unable to transmit messages and the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) appears to be "dead". The PCM is not damaged when the 5v power supply gets shorted to ground, but does need to be reset by turning the key off for 10 second after the short is removed. Using a DVOM or labscope, measure the voltage on the 5v reference wire (5v power supply) at the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) or Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor. If 5v is not present, unplug the MAP sensor. Turn the key off for 10 seconds. Turn the key on and measure the voltage on the 5v power supply circuit. If the voltage is now 5v, replace the MAP sensor.
Problem 4 of 6: The 5v power supply from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is shorted due to a shorted Throttle Position Sensor (TPS).
Test & Fix: If the 5v power supply circuit is shorted to ground, the CCD bus is unable to transmit messages and the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) appears to be "dead". The PCM is not damaged when the 5v power supply gets shorted to ground, but does need to be reset by turning the key off for 10 second after the short is removed. Using a DVOM or labscope, measure the voltage on the 5v reference wire (5 volt power supply) at the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) or Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor. If 5v is not present, unplug the TPS. Turn the key off for 10 seconds. Turn the key on and measure the voltage on the 5v power supply circuit. If the voltage is now 5v, replace the TPS.
Problem 5 of 6: The 5v power supply from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is shorted due to a shorted wire.
Test & Fix: If the 5v power supply circuit is shorted to ground, the CCD bus is unable to transmit messages and the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) appears to be "dead". The PCM is not damaged when the 5v power supply gets shorted to ground, but does need to be reset by turning the key off for 10 second after the short is removed. Using a DVOM or labscope, measure the voltage on the 5v reference wire at the throttle position sensor (TPS) or manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor. If 5v is not present, unplug all sensors that are connected to the 5v power supply and disconnect the PCM. Check if either 5v power supply circuit is shorted to ground using a DVOM. If the circuit is found to be shorted to ground, repair the wire and the cause of the short.
Problem 6 of 6: The 5v power supply from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is shorted due to a shorted Governor Pressure Sensor.
Test & Fix: If the 5v power supply circuit is shorted to ground, the CCD bus is unable to transmit messages and the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) appears to be "dead". The PCM is not damaged when the 5v power supply gets shorted to ground, but does need to be reset by turning the key off for 10 second after the short is removed. Using a DVOM or labscope, measure the voltage on the 5v reference wire at the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) or Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor. If 5v is not present, unplug the large round connector on the driver's side of the transmission. Turn the key off for 10 seconds. Turn the key on and measure the voltage on the 5v power supply circuit. If the voltage is now 5v, remove the transmission pan and check for shorted wiring inside the transmission. If the wiring is OK, replace the Governor Pressure Sensor.
Last edited by schusterjo; Feb 20, 2009 at 04:31 AM.
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 22
Likes: 1
From: Chicago
Try replacing the Auto Shutdown Relay in your fuse box under the hood. Had same problem with my D, and that fixed it. NO BUS readout in mileage display is supposed to mean NO FUSE, which somehow relates to the relay being bad as explained to me by a Dodge mechanic. Somehow doesn't really make sense but instead of replacing your PCM try the relay first. I had my PCM, crankshaft sensor, fuel pump all replaced and nothing worked. My mechanic started swapping relays and sure enough the Auto Shutdown was the culprit.
All Star
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 882
Likes: 3
From: Lebanon, IN
"no bus" means the PCM (computer or module) is not able to communicate. Another words a open or shorted circuit that is not allowing the data to flow threw the "Bus".
"bus" is just a communications line in the car. It's a serial bus, just like the USB port on your computer. For the sake of this conversation, we can just refer to it as the physical connection among several components in your car.
It links the body control module to the power train control module, and those two things to the transmission, and those three things to the instrument cluster.
"bus" is just a communications line in the car. It's a serial bus, just like the USB port on your computer. For the sake of this conversation, we can just refer to it as the physical connection among several components in your car.
It links the body control module to the power train control module, and those two things to the transmission, and those three things to the instrument cluster.
Hall Of Fame
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 14,228
Likes: 19
From: Riverton, UT
I aggree to start at the relay then go to the PCM. Under the hood on the drivers side there is a electrical panel with fuses and relays. Most of all the relays are the same part numbers so you can swich it out. Most of our trucks also have spare relays under the hood in the same location to try out.
If you install a new PCM you can always get a performance tuned one if your into that. I think B&G still sells them. bgspecialists.com
If you install a new PCM you can always get a performance tuned one if your into that. I think B&G still sells them. bgspecialists.com
Last edited by hydrashocker; Feb 20, 2009 at 07:54 PM.
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: SC
1999 Durango stalling
I just went through this issue of the Durango stalling while driving.
On mine, this is what I discovered & hopefully it will help others.
The ECU/PCM can be inspect in about 15 minutes.
Disconnect the battery
Then unplug the 3 connectors into the ecu/pcm.
Remove the 3 screws that mount the unit to the bracket & place upside down on a flat surface
Remove the 6 screws on the back that holds the back plate on, will need a torque driver
With the back removed, you will see the computer board is set in gel. I do not recommend disturbing the gel by poking or prodding, just inspect for burning of the gel.
On the Durango, 2/3rds of the way around the outlets, it was very clear to see where the gel had burnt/dissolved, a margin of about 1/2 inch wide. Then there was a few craters burned/dissolved in what I believe to be over a transistor or other circuit piece, & finally a few other trails of clear areas where the gel had heated & dissolved almost to the circuit board.
The Chrysler Cirrus was not as severe, but clearly showed signs of the gel burns. This Cirrus, I was able to find one with matching numbers at a salvage yard with about the same mileage, same specs, so it worked by just plugging it in & drove.
The Durango I ended up buying a re-manufactured one, this is the only way I would go if ever happened to another auto. At All Computer Resources, Inc for $260.00 with a lifetime warranty, plug & play. I could not find anyone to beat that price & they were great to deal with!
It is my opinion, based on finding this to be the same on a 99 Durango & a 95 Chrysler Cirrus, if you had the issue of stalling while driving, felt & discovered the ECU/PCM unit to hot to place your hand on & once cooled down, start & drive as normal, until heated & shut down again.
Each time it would stall, watching the odometer, NOBUS would appear, (note, once you turn the key off & then back on, the NOBUS will continue to show, so as you are coasting to a safe place to stop, glance at the odometer each time you can to see if you get this reading, it takes a few seconds to cycle thru for it to read this)
Note, I, like many others here did a bunch of testing once got tired of spending money with the Dealers & other mechanics with no results, I had to make the time to learn for myself & did. The Durango has been running great since, been on 2 different trips totaling just over 600 miles, plus almost 2 weeks of local driving.
Intermittent problems are difficult for anyone to resolve, so I do not fault anyone for not finding the problem. But & here is the catch, if I was so easily able to resolve this in the little time I did, I do not understand why a dealer would not be able to find this same problem, after all they are all factory trained doe their autos.
I do not know if the melted gel would be a sure sign each time, but on these 2 that I did inspect, it proved to be true, so at the least I would think a mechanic, dealer or otherwise could spend the 15 minutes to do as I did.
I hope this helps people solve their issue & saves them much money!
On mine, this is what I discovered & hopefully it will help others.
The ECU/PCM can be inspect in about 15 minutes.
Disconnect the battery
Then unplug the 3 connectors into the ecu/pcm.
Remove the 3 screws that mount the unit to the bracket & place upside down on a flat surface
Remove the 6 screws on the back that holds the back plate on, will need a torque driver
With the back removed, you will see the computer board is set in gel. I do not recommend disturbing the gel by poking or prodding, just inspect for burning of the gel.
On the Durango, 2/3rds of the way around the outlets, it was very clear to see where the gel had burnt/dissolved, a margin of about 1/2 inch wide. Then there was a few craters burned/dissolved in what I believe to be over a transistor or other circuit piece, & finally a few other trails of clear areas where the gel had heated & dissolved almost to the circuit board.
The Chrysler Cirrus was not as severe, but clearly showed signs of the gel burns. This Cirrus, I was able to find one with matching numbers at a salvage yard with about the same mileage, same specs, so it worked by just plugging it in & drove.
The Durango I ended up buying a re-manufactured one, this is the only way I would go if ever happened to another auto. At All Computer Resources, Inc for $260.00 with a lifetime warranty, plug & play. I could not find anyone to beat that price & they were great to deal with!
It is my opinion, based on finding this to be the same on a 99 Durango & a 95 Chrysler Cirrus, if you had the issue of stalling while driving, felt & discovered the ECU/PCM unit to hot to place your hand on & once cooled down, start & drive as normal, until heated & shut down again.
Each time it would stall, watching the odometer, NOBUS would appear, (note, once you turn the key off & then back on, the NOBUS will continue to show, so as you are coasting to a safe place to stop, glance at the odometer each time you can to see if you get this reading, it takes a few seconds to cycle thru for it to read this)
Note, I, like many others here did a bunch of testing once got tired of spending money with the Dealers & other mechanics with no results, I had to make the time to learn for myself & did. The Durango has been running great since, been on 2 different trips totaling just over 600 miles, plus almost 2 weeks of local driving.
Intermittent problems are difficult for anyone to resolve, so I do not fault anyone for not finding the problem. But & here is the catch, if I was so easily able to resolve this in the little time I did, I do not understand why a dealer would not be able to find this same problem, after all they are all factory trained doe their autos.
I do not know if the melted gel would be a sure sign each time, but on these 2 that I did inspect, it proved to be true, so at the least I would think a mechanic, dealer or otherwise could spend the 15 minutes to do as I did.
I hope this helps people solve their issue & saves them much money!
