aftermarket 22's
#1
03-03-2009 | 10:16 PM
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From: VA
#2
03-04-2009 | 04:22 PM
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Joined: Feb 2009
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From: MASSACHUSETTS
Are the wheels balanced?Check the tire pressure too=A dumb **** tech at Pep boys put only 40 psi in 80 psi snow tires on my old chevy truck=check the sidewalls of the tires and makesure the pressure is correct.Also if their sport tires they my have to have the tread pattern going in a certain direction if they're mounted backwards like on or to of them=may caus it to wander=low profiles=loking at the tread pttern="v" in the pattern should goimg forward toward the front of the truck on most low profile performance tires=make sure their all pointing forward>I was told this by several of my vato loco low rider essas
#4
03-05-2009 | 07:43 PM
Captain
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 579
Likes: 2
From: Dallas, Tx
The main issues that People run into when putting on bigger rims and tires are.
1. larger rims and tires add a lot more weight.
2. with out the proper alignment yes you will be al over the road.
3. this does wear out the fac suspension and steering components a lot faster
Have you got an alignment after you put the brand new 22's on the ride?
dude I and others suggest firestone for the lifetime alignment special.
If so then the next step is to get some new shocks,ball joints,tie rods, etc.
GOT PICS???
1. larger rims and tires add a lot more weight.
2. with out the proper alignment yes you will be al over the road.
3. this does wear out the fac suspension and steering components a lot faster
Have you got an alignment after you put the brand new 22's on the ride?
dude I and others suggest firestone for the lifetime alignment special.
If so then the next step is to get some new shocks,ball joints,tie rods, etc.
GOT PICS???
#5
03-05-2009 | 09:01 PM
Champion
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,822
Likes: 4
From: Indiana
It's not the rims nor the size, it is the surface area of the rubber.
I bet $5 your tires have a very smooth surface as opposed to a knobby type of tire. Thus, the rubber follows whatever crease is on the road.
I ran Michelin LTX M/S rubber forever. I still do as my late fall/winter/early spring tire. The D will drive itself and has zero issues driving along.
My late spring/summer rubber is a set of Falken STZs. The contact surface of the tread pattern is significantly more than the cleats on the Michelins. There is no hands-off easy driving with these on. The Durango will follow any little crack in the road if you let it.
Falken
http://www.falkentire.com/media/tires/8/wheel.png
Michelin
http://www.michelinman.com:80/images...ull/ltx-ms.jpg
It's not a lot... until you feel it. Then you realize it's significant actually.
IndyDurango
I bet $5 your tires have a very smooth surface as opposed to a knobby type of tire. Thus, the rubber follows whatever crease is on the road.
I ran Michelin LTX M/S rubber forever. I still do as my late fall/winter/early spring tire. The D will drive itself and has zero issues driving along.
My late spring/summer rubber is a set of Falken STZs. The contact surface of the tread pattern is significantly more than the cleats on the Michelins. There is no hands-off easy driving with these on. The Durango will follow any little crack in the road if you let it.
Falken
http://www.falkentire.com/media/tires/8/wheel.png
Michelin
http://www.michelinman.com:80/images...ull/ltx-ms.jpg
It's not a lot... until you feel it. Then you realize it's significant actually.
IndyDurango
#6
03-05-2009 | 10:25 PM
Captain
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 579
Likes: 2
From: Dallas, Tx
Sorry indy but until you run 20's or bigger you can't say that size doesn't matter. the weight of bigger and larger tires and rims has everything to do with bumps or ripples in the road. not trying to be rude but do us a favor throw some 20's or 22's on your "D" and see what results you have there my DF friend
I have 20's myself and smaller 15's And there is a big diff between the 2
The fac suspension is setup for the weight of fac tires and rims not 22's
remember this is about bumps and ripples not creases in the road.
I know about this because I have 20's.
now like stated earlier one way to counter act the loss of control when goin over bumps is to replace the shocks with a more firm set
I will say that after I replaced my shocks, tie rods, and ball joints the road felt way more smooth with my20's so this is speaking from experience, not just of the top of my head
I have 20's myself and smaller 15's And there is a big diff between the 2
The fac suspension is setup for the weight of fac tires and rims not 22's
remember this is about bumps and ripples not creases in the road.
I know about this because I have 20's.
now like stated earlier one way to counter act the loss of control when goin over bumps is to replace the shocks with a more firm set
I will say that after I replaced my shocks, tie rods, and ball joints the road felt way more smooth with my20's so this is speaking from experience, not just of the top of my head
#7
03-05-2009 | 11:15 PM
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,822
Likes: 4
From: Indiana
How do you know what size rims my Falken's are?
It's the rubber surface area. Bigger wheels increases that even more. Simply surface area physics. In relationship to INCREASED SURFACE AREA the bigger the wheel simply exaggerates the problem as I have described it. Add some knobby's to your 20s and while it will look like a piece of ****, but it will drive fine.
The increased weight is a factor, but not one that is described as following all of the cracks in the road. Increased stopping distance and a crappy ride are related to the weight as well.
And my Falkens are 17s BTW. I believe in a side wall and not a rubber band... also adding to your rough ride characteristics, not necessarily the road tracing.
IndyD
It's the rubber surface area. Bigger wheels increases that even more. Simply surface area physics. In relationship to INCREASED SURFACE AREA the bigger the wheel simply exaggerates the problem as I have described it. Add some knobby's to your 20s and while it will look like a piece of ****, but it will drive fine.
The increased weight is a factor, but not one that is described as following all of the cracks in the road. Increased stopping distance and a crappy ride are related to the weight as well.
And my Falkens are 17s BTW. I believe in a side wall and not a rubber band... also adding to your rough ride characteristics, not necessarily the road tracing.
IndyD
Last edited by IndyDurango; 03-05-2009 at 11:20 PM.
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#8
03-06-2009 | 08:27 AM
Record Breaker
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,163
Likes: 1
From: Upstate Ny
It's not the rims nor the size, it is the surface area of the rubber.
I bet $5 your tires have a very smooth surface as opposed to a knobby type of tire. Thus, the rubber follows whatever crease is on the road.
I ran Michelin LTX M/S rubber forever. I still do as my late fall/winter/early spring tire. The D will drive itself and has zero issues driving along.
My late spring/summer rubber is a set of Falken STZs. The contact surface of the tread pattern is significantly more than the cleats on the Michelins. There is no hands-off easy driving with these on. The Durango will follow any little crack in the road if you let it.
It's not a lot... until you feel it. Then you realize it's significant actually.
IndyDurango
I bet $5 your tires have a very smooth surface as opposed to a knobby type of tire. Thus, the rubber follows whatever crease is on the road.
I ran Michelin LTX M/S rubber forever. I still do as my late fall/winter/early spring tire. The D will drive itself and has zero issues driving along.
My late spring/summer rubber is a set of Falken STZs. The contact surface of the tread pattern is significantly more than the cleats on the Michelins. There is no hands-off easy driving with these on. The Durango will follow any little crack in the road if you let it.
It's not a lot... until you feel it. Then you realize it's significant actually.
IndyDurango
#9
03-06-2009 | 09:06 AM
Captain
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 579
Likes: 2
From: Dallas, Tx
How do you know what size rims my Falken's are?
It's the rubber surface area. Bigger wheels increases that even more. Simply surface area physics. In relationship to INCREASED SURFACE AREA the bigger the wheel simply exaggerates the problem as I have described it. Add some knobby's to your 20s and while it will look like a piece of ****, but it will drive fine.
The increased weight is a factor, but not one that is described as following all of the cracks in the road. Increased stopping distance and a crappy ride are related to the weight as well.
And my Falkens are 17s BTW. I believe in a side wall and not a rubber band... also adding to your rough ride characteristics, not necessarily the road tracing.
IndyD
It's the rubber surface area. Bigger wheels increases that even more. Simply surface area physics. In relationship to INCREASED SURFACE AREA the bigger the wheel simply exaggerates the problem as I have described it. Add some knobby's to your 20s and while it will look like a piece of ****, but it will drive fine.
The increased weight is a factor, but not one that is described as following all of the cracks in the road. Increased stopping distance and a crappy ride are related to the weight as well.
And my Falkens are 17s BTW. I believe in a side wall and not a rubber band... also adding to your rough ride characteristics, not necessarily the road tracing.
IndyD