? on 98 Durango
#11
Well just though i would post up some pics. As of now the trannsmission is shifting fine again(was the output speed sensor). Lights are working again.(took the headlight switch out, testes was fine, put back on works) thinking wasn't complete plugged in.
No just need to work on the front end, has bad inner tire wear on both drivers and pass side, and drivers side looks like it angled in more then other tires....
No just need to work on the front end, has bad inner tire wear on both drivers and pass side, and drivers side looks like it angled in more then other tires....
#12
#13
i'm thinking before the alignment to go ahead and change out the ball joints. since when i looked yesterday at them, both the tops where still riveted in so they have never been changed. ball joints check is up/down or side to side movement, know one is for ball joints and other is for wheel hub/bearing..
last yr took about a week to grind off/cut the lowers on my 99 gmc truck talk about a PITA!!!!!!
last yr took about a week to grind off/cut the lowers on my 99 gmc truck talk about a PITA!!!!!!
#14
i'm thinking before the alignment to go ahead and change out the ball joints. since when i looked yesterday at them, both the tops where still riveted in so they have never been changed. ball joints check is up/down or side to side movement, know one is for ball joints and other is for wheel hub/bearing..
last yr took about a week to grind off/cut the lowers on my 99 gmc truck talk about a PITA!!!!!!
last yr took about a week to grind off/cut the lowers on my 99 gmc truck talk about a PITA!!!!!!
Not positive what year of durango's it was but they had a recall for the upper ball joints. If you still have rivets yours have not been redone (again I am not positive of what year of durango's qualify for the recall work, simply call the dealer give them the vin and have them look it up)
#15
Do all front end work BEFORE doing the 4 wheel alignment!!!!!!!!
If the BJ's are still rivited then they need replacement. Just cut the rivets tops and knock the BJ off then smack em out. A 4 1/2 inch pneumatic grinder will make short work of em. Either way be careful. They aren't that bad. The lowers are a PITA.... tho.
If the BJ's are still rivited then they need replacement. Just cut the rivets tops and knock the BJ off then smack em out. A 4 1/2 inch pneumatic grinder will make short work of em. Either way be careful. They aren't that bad. The lowers are a PITA.... tho.
#16
dont think i fall under that recall , since mines a 98 , I think what i've read here it's only 99 or 2000
Also neighbor just told me the heater does not work. I tried this yesterday the truck was up to normal temp and turn on the heater only blew cold air. So i'm thinking something with the heater core?
Might be as simpley as a new termostat but since it's getting to normal range dont think it's that.
I've read on here about doing a back flush on the heater core, to help unplug it. how do you do that?
Or any other thoughts decisions?
Also neighbor just told me the heater does not work. I tried this yesterday the truck was up to normal temp and turn on the heater only blew cold air. So i'm thinking something with the heater core?
Might be as simpley as a new termostat but since it's getting to normal range dont think it's that.
I've read on here about doing a back flush on the heater core, to help unplug it. how do you do that?
Or any other thoughts decisions?
Last edited by crate; 03-16-2009 at 01:42 PM.
#17
Well goto Autoparts store and buy one of these kits
Follow the simple installation instructions, buy a bottle of that radiator flush and follow the direction using the kit above. Then once you have done it I drain all the water out and do it all over again (do it 2 times). Then pull the t-stat and replace.. After you replace the t-stat then refill with correct mixture of Antifreeze
Follow the simple installation instructions, buy a bottle of that radiator flush and follow the direction using the kit above. Then once you have done it I drain all the water out and do it all over again (do it 2 times). Then pull the t-stat and replace.. After you replace the t-stat then refill with correct mixture of Antifreeze
#18
#19
There is another way, just disconnect both hoses at the firewall then rig up a way to hook the garden hose to one of the connections on the firewall. ( may want to hookup another short hose aiming downward to the other connection so you are not blowing water strait out of the firewall and getting every where) let the water run that way for 10-15 minutes.
#20
You want to back flush first. The heater hose that is coming off the pump is the pressure side. Put the garden hose on the other side (which is the side going into the intake manifold) and turn on the hose. Remember to put a little piece of hose on the other side and angle it down under the truck and use clamps as the presure side coming from the house will blow the hose off the heater core exhaust nipple.
Most people just get an old hose and cut 4 feet off and use that. The cut off side can take the pressure away. Watch what comes out!
I've never bought a flush and fill kit.
Most people just get an old hose and cut 4 feet off and use that. The cut off side can take the pressure away. Watch what comes out!
I've never bought a flush and fill kit.