I own a '99 Durango SLT 5.9 4x4, about 140k miles, with factory towing package. I pull two trailers with this vehicle: one trailer (5x8 enclosed) weighing probably 4,000 lbs with it at least 2x per month about 100 miles round trip (mostly flat) and 1 or 2 times per year about 1,000 miles round trip (mixed terrain); the second trailer (4x7 flatbed) weighing less than 1,000 lbs around town (my substitute for a pickup bed for general hauling). I also do a little off-road in it (stock size wheels and tires, no suspension modifications).

I have had regular transmission service done since I bought the Durango (I bought it used with 48k miles on it from a reputable dealer in another city).

Up until a few months ago, I had never had any transmission issues whatsoever. Now I'm having quite a few transmission issues, and my local Dodge dealer (Chris Nikel Dodge in Tulsa/Broken Arrow OK) has been anything but helpful -- they've charged me a lot of money and made the situation worse, IMO. I'm to the point that I have to decide whether or not to spend the major $$$ on repair/replacement of transmission or just trading it in on a new vehicle.

My issues can be summed up as follows:

1) Transmission slippage under load (up hills or with trailer attached). (Local dealer said the bands were 'burned' -- okay, I can believe that, since 130k miles on the truck when this started).

2) Shifting issues - truck will shift to lower gear sometimes randomly under acceleration or load (even mild to moderate, not just heavy) but NOT under constant load/speed. Truck will even rev to rev limiter sometimes, especially when getting on freeway, but feels like there's just no power or not enough power on acceleration.

3) Noise leading up to shift/during shift - there is a ticking noise that is easily heard as the truck approaches a shift point which diminishes after the transmission has shifted. I feel sure that this is a vacuum solenoid (shift control solenoid?) but I'm hesitant to do this if I need to just replace the entire transmission anyway. This sounds like it's right in front of me in the engine compartment -- does this sound right to anyone?

Aside from the band 'burning', is there something I should or could address right now that might help my problem? Or should I just suck it up and replace the tranny altogether? And does that normally include the replacement of the shift control module, etc?

Since I do a bit of towing with this vehicle, can anyone advise me as to whether or not there are 'heavy-duty' rebuild components available for this tranny so as to improve its towing capabilities? The last thing I need is for this truck to conk out on me while I'm pulling a trailer with a lot of expensive gear in it.

I'm aware that I'm considering spending ~$2500 on a truck that's not worth 2x that, really, but I like this truck and this is the first real problem I've had with it. I'm sure more will follow. I've read horror stories about transmission issues from other '99 Durango owners, and I wonder whether or not it might just be better to suck it up and trade it in on a newer vehicle with equal or better towing capabilities.

Sorry for the long post, and thanks for any replies/advice.

 

Sounds like you wore out the bands. You can try to have it adjusted with a filter fluid change.

Can Dan at www.thefastman.com for a good trany build and make sure they install a Transgo Shift Kit. This trans is about 3k and you need a full flush before install.
Next time you buy a truck or build one make sure you install a Transgo kit because of what they do internally especially if you tow. On a regular trany it costs about $300 bucks installed and regardless of how you drive it keeps the trany is shape and really extends the life.

 

Is the fluid burnt? and do you notice and grayish particles on the dipstick?
I did my own fluid,filter,and band adjustment on my 44re tranny behind my 5.2..
If your mechanically capable I would do the service myself=dealership can be lazy and not do what their supposed to do like the front band adjustment which is a lil hard to get too and I know dealer techs who use the guess-the torque of the band being tightened rather then using an inch based torque wrench...This forum has most of the info on torqueing and backoff turns for the band adjustments...If the fluid looks and smells burnt you still maybe able to salvage some more mileage out of it with a fluid and adjustment...mine is at 190980 and still going like new.and I have also used Lucas tranny stuff too and seem s to firm up the shifts...This won't solve a wornout tranny but it can help hopefully squeeze out so more life outta it.

 

Thanks for the comments.

Part of the problem I have with the dealership in question is that the lead mechanic told me that they did NOT do the front band adjustment after I specifically ASKED and PAID for it -- and this AFTER I took it back two or three times because it was problematic. I did have a fluid and adjustment, but I continue to have problems afterwards -- especially the random downshifting and ticking noise I described.

I think I'm heading for a full rebuild. Hopefully the 'ticking' noise I hear at shift will be resolved with that. I have absolutely no idea what that is. I appreciate the recommendation from the earlier poster; but as he's not local to me, I don't think that's a practical approach for me. I do appreciate the recommendation of the TransGo kit; I'll definitely request that.

I have found a tranny from a '98 4x4 model locally. I need to find out whether or not it's a 44re. If so, I may buy it and have the rebuild done and then swapped later, before I make my long trip later this year.

Again, thanks -- any further comments appreciated.

 

You need to call the manager and this service personal needs to be fired!


Yours I think is the 46RE not the 44RE.


Here is the 46RE out of the service manual:

ADJUSTMENT - BANDS

FRONT BAND

The front (kickdown) band adjusting screw is
located on the left side of the transmission case
above the manual valve and throttle valve levers.
(1) Raise vehicle.
(2) Loosen band adjusting screw locknut (Fig. 72).
Then back locknut off 3-5 turns. Be sure adjusting
screw turns freely in case. Apply lubricant to screw
threads if necessary.
(3) Tighten band adjusting screw to 8 N·m (72 in.
lbs.) torque with Inch Pound Torque Wrench
C-3380-A, a 3-in. extension and an appropriate
Torx™ socket.

CAUTION: If Adapter C-3705 is needed to reach the
adjusting screw, tighten the screw to only 5 N·m
(47-50 in. lbs.) torque.

(4) Back off front band adjusting screw 2-7/8
turns.
(5) Hold adjuster screw in position and tighten
locknut to 41 N·m (30 ft. lbs.) torque.

(6) Lower vehicle

REAR BAND

The transmission oil pan must be removed for
access to the rear band adjusting screw.
(1) Raise vehicle.
(2) Remove transmission oil pan and drain fluid.
(3) Loosen band adjusting screw locknut 5-6 turns.
Be sure adjusting screw turns freely in lever.
(4) Tighten adjusting screw to 8 N·m (72 in. lbs.)
torque (Fig. 73).
(5) Back off adjusting screw 2 turns.
(6) Hold adjusting screw in place and tighten locknut

to 34 N·m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.

(7) Position new gasket on oil pan and install pan
on transmission. Tighten pan bolts to 13.6 N·m (125
in. lbs.) torque.
(8) Lower vehicle and refill transmission with

Mopart ATF +4, Type 9602 fluid.


Here is the 44RE:

LOW/REVERSE (REAR) BAND

The low/reverse band, or “rear”, band (Fig. 63) is
similar in appearance and operation to the front
band. The rear band is slightly different in that it
does not use a link bar, but is acted directly on by
the apply lever. This is referred to as a double-wrap
band design (the drum is completely encompassed/
wrapped by the band). The double-wrap band provides
a greater holding power in comparison to the
single-wrap design.

KICKDOWN (FRONT) BAND

The kickdown band holds the common sun gear of
the planetary gear sets by applying and holding the
front clutch retainer, which is splined to the sun gear
driving shell, and in turn splined directly to the sun
gear. The application of the band by the servo is typically
done by an apply lever and link bar.

LOW/REVERSE (REAR) BAND

The rear band holds the rear planet carrier stationary
by being mounted around and applied to the
low/reverse drum.

ADJUSTMENT - BANDS

FRONT BAND

The front (kickdown) band adjusting screw is
located on the left side of the transmission case
above the manual valve and throttle valve levers.
(1) Raise vehicle.
(2) Loosen band adjusting screw locknut (Fig. 64).
Then back locknut off 3-5 turns. Be sure adjusting
screw turns freely in case. Apply lubricant to screw
threads if necessary.
(3) Tighten band adjusting screw to 8 N·m (72 in.
lbs.) torque with Inch Pound Torque Wrench
C-3380-A, a 3-in. extension and appropriate Torx™
socket.

CAUTION: If Adapter C-3705 is needed to reach the
adjusting screw, tighten the screw to only 5 N·m
(47-50 in. lbs.) torque.

(4) Back off front band adjusting screw 1 7/8
turns.
(5) Hold adjuster screw in position and tighten
locknut to 41 N·m (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(6) Lower vehicle.

REAR BAND

The transmission oil pan must be removed for
access to the rear band adjusting screw.
(1) Raise vehicle.
(2) Remove transmission oil pan and drain fluid.
(3) Loosen band adjusting screw locknut 5-6 turns
(Fig. 65). Be sure adjusting screw turns freely in
lever.
(4) Tighten adjusting screw to 8 N·m (72 in. lbs.)
torque.
(5) Back off adjusting screw 4 turns.
(6) Hold adjusting screw in place and tighten locknut
to 34 N·m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(7) Position new gasket on oil pan and install pan
on transmission. Tighten pan bolts to 17 N·m (13 ft.
lbs.) torque.

(8) Lower vehicle and refill transmission with

Mopart ATF Plus 4, Type 9602 fluid.