Looks ok.

Your going to have to get a larger bearing for the tolerance's now and plasta gauge it. Get her close to the others in relation, and pray!

Make sure you put a new oil pump in like you said and get it right ro you'll be pulling it again.

 

I've got the plastigage, but I'm not going to check the clearance until I am done polishing the journal and ready to start putting it back together. Would be nice if I had a micrometer because I would have checked it before I ordered the bearing. I just ordered a standard size bearing because it doesn't really look too damaged, but like I said I'm going to check it first to make sure it's within tolerance (.0006"-.0022").

BTW, I looked up crank polishing on google and found this great site! It also happens to be a third gen camaro site which I have one of those too . Maybe someday I'll put a chevy engine and tranny in my durango too.
http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/te...rankshaft.html

Also, I'm not used to the oil pickup tube not being connected to the oil pump which is why I wanted to change it. I already have it out and it's a separate unit. I'm just going to clean it real good (a new one is $50 and a good cleaning will suffice) and reinstall it with a new O-ring. Oil pressure, when I had it running, was good so I'm not worried about it.

 

How did ya pull it? Did you end up pulling the motor?

Also, with trying to keep tolorances I think a new Standard Bearing will come close to the rest being worn. Good idea!

 

No, lol, the engine is still in the vehicle. It is very hard to work like that too, but I managed it. I couldn't get the oil pan out, but moved it far enough to the sides to remove the oil pick-up tube and windage tray (I think that's what it is called anyhow) which is also the gasket for the oil pan and was a real pain to unglue from the pan and block.

I finally got my Clevite bearing yesterday and finished polishing the journal. I then installed the new used piston in the bore (this time it only took me 3 tries!) and put a piece of plastigage on the bottom cap bearing and installed it. Took it off and I was pissed to find that it's over the tolerance. It's probably around .0045" (I haven't used the larger plastigage yet and the smaller one maxes out at .003") which is way over the spec. I emailed Clevite to see if they have a bearing that has just a little undersize so it would work. Of course I haven't gotten a response back yet so I’m not sure what to do. A new crank at autozone is $238+tax, but they also include bearings. I haven't called the machine shop to find out how much it would be just to have it reground and polished, but I would need new bearings anyhow and it's $50+tax just for the connecting rod bearings. The cost isn't what I'm really worried about anyway. It's the labor to pull the engine out and get that crank out and back in. I would have to borrow and transport a cherry picker and buy an engine stand too.

So as you can see I’m a little stuck atm. If I can’t get an undersize bearing that will work, I might just run it like that and possibly use 10w-40 oil or something for a few thousand miles until I’m ready to go for the overhaul. That would also give me the chance to see if there are any other weak spots that I don’t know about and focus on them too later. I would also like to get a micrometer to find out what it's at and if it's out of round or tapered or anything.

 

Auto Zone sells oversized/undersized bearings. You need an oversized bearing not undersized to make up the ware from the journal? Also they sell the plastagauge.

Anyway try to get a rubber gasket for the oil pan and it will make it easyer to install. You just want to wettin it with molly grease. This is a hell of a lot easyer with hard installs like your saying.

W-40 is just a cleaner/dryer more than a lubricant so I'd be careful using it.

 

Autozone only sells bearing sets for all the connecting rods. I got my pair from rock auto for $10 (5+5 shipping) and I might get another if I might have a chance at an undersize of .25mm which is ~.009" which is the next size down.

I actually need an undersize bearing because the connecting rod bore is standard size. It looks like it may possibly have a reground crank because there is a bigger gap than I originally thought. it's more than +0.006" (maybe up to .01") smaller than the bearing and part of it being compressed could be becase I bumped the bearing into the plastigage. If you have to regrind a crank you need a undersize bearing and if you have to bore the connecting rod you get an oversize bearing (I believe it's called) and you can have a combination of both if they are both worked on like with a spun bearing.

The only oil pan gasket available is $50 so I’m just going to reuse it for now.

You mean WD-40? I'm not using that. I bought some white lithium grease to lubricate the new journal when I'm ready to put everything back together because I believe that's what the people who I had my last engine (Chevy 350 btw) worked on said to use for the rebuild. I've also got heavy duty oil stabilizer that was recommended to me by the same people and I'm using at the moment so it stays lubricated.

 

well I went and got some feeler gauges and a caliper for the lack of people selling micrometers on sunday. the stock size for the jounal is supposed to be 2.0076"-2.0082" and what I read from the caliper was 1.981". I know they aren't as accurate as a micrometer, but it can't be too off either. If anything it should be reading higher than it really is because it has to be perfectly parallel to get a good reading and it could have opened a little when taking it out. They don't make an oversize bearing for that size. it's roughly .003" to much to work with a .75mm US and .007" to small for the .5mm US to work. I guess it's just telling me that I need to just start over with another crank.

Bet you are glad you didn't buy this one of me now indiana

 

Yes I meant WD-40.

Using white lithium grease to lubricate the new journal instead of Molly should be fine. I don't like lithium because under heat it breaks down quickly. Molly is my favorite because it holds together for building because it takes the punishment during engine re-building/lack of lubricant during start up.

Now did I miss something?
You had a bearing go out that gouged your crank that YOU ground out meaning that you (AKA) ground the crank making it smaller. Now add a OEM connecting rod and that should equal a larger gap. An over sized bearing is bigger thus giving you a smaller gap (taking some of the gap out).

Bearing Clearance 0.015 - 0.055 mm

(0.0006 -0.0022 in.)
Service Limit . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.127 mm (0.005 in.)


From the look of your plasitagauge you are too loose thus needing a over sized bearing. you are showing a .007 gap with a needed .0002.

Basically, .007 is a bigger gap than .0002 so that a larger bearing (over sized) is needed to take up the slack bringing it back down to .0002

I think you have the decimal in the wrong place?

 

I don't know, I thought Moly lube was just for the breaking of flat tappet lifters. Maybe I'm thinking of something else.

No, I never had it ground. I was just polishing it because it had a spun bearing (which I should probably have just gone and bought a reman crank anyway or regrind this one), but it looks like even though the wear isn't too bad, it's still took off quite a bit of metal.

Oversize is just if you get the connecting rod bored out and undersize is just if the crank is reground. check out this link if you want http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Engine/terms.htm

It's actually a lot larger than what the plastigage is showing. I know the caliper is a rough estimate, but it shouldn't be that low and I got that figure twice which makes it .0266" smaller than the smallest production limit. I believe the plastigage is just showing some compression because of me holding the cap in place and which is why that plastigage doesn't go any higher because it's inaccurate and that's the largest one I had. I'm not sure which decimal you are talking about, but I've looked it over and they look accurate.

 

I found you some great info:

http://www.aa1car.com/library/ar797.htm


If you think the plastagauge is wrong????? --I think it's right-- I've bumped em on install and looked and it didn't do anything..... IDK

Decimal point differences that you are talking about is .0006 to .0022 Bearing size you are showing is a .25mm which is too high from what I can see at + .009 inch.

I think the plastagauge is right and you need a 0.127mm undersized bearing which gives you + .004999985 inch and that should get you close to .002 inch.

.016 inch is where your going to end up with a .25mm undersize and consitering that you don't know if the Journal is true round. Yes it might be in spec's but it's not a machined surface. I think you are better to go bigger than smaller.


Yes you were right from what I can see....BTW