2000 5.9L Durango Wierd stuttering problem
#1
2000 5.9L Durango Wierd stuttering problem
Alrighty, this is a last resort for me, before handing this thing over to my local Dodge Dealer to scratch their heads for a while on it. I've been a mechanic for the better part of 2 decades, and I can't nail this one down 100%.
I have a 2000 Dodge Durango SLT 5.9L 4x4. It ran like a TOP for years (bought it used with 50K on the odo back in 2002). I finally got around to doing a tuneup on it (even though it still ran great, was attempting to get more than 18mpg out of it). So, I changed the Cap/Rotor/Wires/Plugs, tossed in a K&N Filter Element (same size as standard). I used the premium brand (be damed if I can recall it) Cap, rotor, and wires. I used Bosch Platinum +4's (the kind that don't need to be gapped, on account of the four heads on each plug). The problems started about a month after the tuneup.
It's now Stuttering something bad under acceleration, sounds almost like a misfire, but there's no popping out of the TB/Muffler, just a "jerking" sensation. I've ruled out Water in the fuel, as I ran the tank almost dry, and refilled it with known water-free fuel, plus three bottles of Red HEET, and a bottle of LUCAS Fuel injector cleaner.
It is NOT Idling rough, or presenting while revving the motor in Neutral/Park. It's main presentation comes when in Overdrive, and you slowly accelerate to the point where it kicks OD Off, and down into Drive, just before the shift, it shakes/shudders/acts like it's misfiring.
Once that occurs, it doesn't matter how hard you slam the accelerator, it stutters like it has a dead cylinder. If you let off the gas 9 times out of 10, it starts working fine again.
NO CODES have come up (well, there was one time it flashed a code at me, but the computer didn't store it, and it has never flashed the Check Engine light again.) I've scanned it with an OBDII Tool, and it says there are no stored codes.
I've checked the Transmission fluid, had to add about a half a quart of ATF +4. I thought it might be a slipping problem in the tranny, but it seems unlikely.
The worst thing about this problem is it is SO INTERMITTENT. It acted like this for a whole day last week, then ran PERFECT for about 4 days, now it's back to acting bad.
The Sheer randomness of the issue is what's making it really hard to narrow it down.
Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
I have a 2000 Dodge Durango SLT 5.9L 4x4. It ran like a TOP for years (bought it used with 50K on the odo back in 2002). I finally got around to doing a tuneup on it (even though it still ran great, was attempting to get more than 18mpg out of it). So, I changed the Cap/Rotor/Wires/Plugs, tossed in a K&N Filter Element (same size as standard). I used the premium brand (be damed if I can recall it) Cap, rotor, and wires. I used Bosch Platinum +4's (the kind that don't need to be gapped, on account of the four heads on each plug). The problems started about a month after the tuneup.
It's now Stuttering something bad under acceleration, sounds almost like a misfire, but there's no popping out of the TB/Muffler, just a "jerking" sensation. I've ruled out Water in the fuel, as I ran the tank almost dry, and refilled it with known water-free fuel, plus three bottles of Red HEET, and a bottle of LUCAS Fuel injector cleaner.
It is NOT Idling rough, or presenting while revving the motor in Neutral/Park. It's main presentation comes when in Overdrive, and you slowly accelerate to the point where it kicks OD Off, and down into Drive, just before the shift, it shakes/shudders/acts like it's misfiring.
Once that occurs, it doesn't matter how hard you slam the accelerator, it stutters like it has a dead cylinder. If you let off the gas 9 times out of 10, it starts working fine again.
NO CODES have come up (well, there was one time it flashed a code at me, but the computer didn't store it, and it has never flashed the Check Engine light again.) I've scanned it with an OBDII Tool, and it says there are no stored codes.
I've checked the Transmission fluid, had to add about a half a quart of ATF +4. I thought it might be a slipping problem in the tranny, but it seems unlikely.
The worst thing about this problem is it is SO INTERMITTENT. It acted like this for a whole day last week, then ran PERFECT for about 4 days, now it's back to acting bad.
The Sheer randomness of the issue is what's making it really hard to narrow it down.
Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
#2
My honest opinion.... Ditch the spark plugs... Pull them out and check them, look at the central electrode... More than likely one of them is faulty.... Just because the package is fancy and they look neat doesnt always justify use. Im sure many users would agree...
Try running your old set if you still got em to see if the problem persists..
Try running your old set if you still got em to see if the problem persists..
#3
yeah, going to get rid of those +4's, and get some normal sparkplugs in there. Also, I think I've narrowed it down a tad more. Since it doesn't present at idle, or at any point in the RPM range (Idle-5000) while in park/Neutral. It has to be transmission. The Truck has 144,000 on the clock, and never had a trans service. I'm scheduling a Filter change/power flush.
I've also noticed that my Muffler, A: Sounds like crap, and B: the backpressure is messing up. I put my hand in the exhaust stream at the rear of the truck, and had my dad rev it a little, it wasn't a steady flow, it was breaking up pretty bad. So, I'm also going to toss on a Flowmaster muffler (stupid Exhaust shop wants 120 to put a stock one on, and 150 to put on a Flowmaster...).
PS, I would love to get anywhere near what you are getting in terms of MPG!
I've also noticed that my Muffler, A: Sounds like crap, and B: the backpressure is messing up. I put my hand in the exhaust stream at the rear of the truck, and had my dad rev it a little, it wasn't a steady flow, it was breaking up pretty bad. So, I'm also going to toss on a Flowmaster muffler (stupid Exhaust shop wants 120 to put a stock one on, and 150 to put on a Flowmaster...).
PS, I would love to get anywhere near what you are getting in terms of MPG!
Last edited by Kensai; 05-12-2009 at 12:09 PM.
#4
Fubar, ditch those +4's before Hydra write you up a book on why platinum's are a NO NO for 5.2/5.9 engines!!! 1st generation 5.2/5.9 are not design to run with platinum plugs due to a older style ignition system. They will run fine for the 4.7 engines as they have a newer type of ignition system. Stick with the trusted champion truck plug or even the champion truck plug iridium plugs. Iridium the new thing and it is much much better than platinum's. I am using the Iridium plugs for the past 15k miles and the plugs are still in excellent shape given the miles driven on it. They are rated for 100k life.
#5
I have the same symptoms, but only on a hot start.... It is getting worse over time... To the point of where the vehicle won't move... This last time I had 5 HUGE backfires out of the exhaust... I am going to start with the o2 sensor and then to the cam position sensor... Maybe do an index of the distributor before changing the sensor... I have done new plugs/cap/rotor/wires... Nothing helped... Mine is more temperature related, where yours doesn't sound like it is...
#6
Nothing more to add. Get rid of the Platinum plugs ASAP.
My recommendation, Autolite 3923 spark plugs. She will run fine from there if it's the plugs. A 20 minute, easy fix. And yes... Autolite 3923 spark plugs. Not a typo... MANY performance 5.9s recommend them... including me LOL
Plats SUCK!
Neo, :nono: hijack. Yours sounds like a cam position sensor if it won't move.
IndyDurango
My recommendation, Autolite 3923 spark plugs. She will run fine from there if it's the plugs. A 20 minute, easy fix. And yes... Autolite 3923 spark plugs. Not a typo... MANY performance 5.9s recommend them... including me LOL
Plats SUCK!
Neo, :nono: hijack. Yours sounds like a cam position sensor if it won't move.
IndyDurango
#7
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#8
4 out of 4 were onto the the suck-*** Platnium plugs before the hijack. I'd say the problems are not the same between your rigs.
Having a few common symptoms do not necessarily mean the same diagnosis. For example, your head can hurt from hitting it on a door. Head pain could also be caused by a bullet. Not quite the same problem, yet both included a sore noggin'. Your damn D ends up not even moving, thus I can't say those are the same end results. LOL.
FG... Change the plugs and let us know. You should have a great Durango there in the 4x4 5.9L 2000 D. Got one myself!
IndyD
Having a few common symptoms do not necessarily mean the same diagnosis. For example, your head can hurt from hitting it on a door. Head pain could also be caused by a bullet. Not quite the same problem, yet both included a sore noggin'. Your damn D ends up not even moving, thus I can't say those are the same end results. LOL.
FG... Change the plugs and let us know. You should have a great Durango there in the 4x4 5.9L 2000 D. Got one myself!
IndyD
#9
#10
Platinums a stinky load of simi-digested CRAP!
These motors were never designed to run them. You can look into any forum under a Advanced Search in the sections of our Durangos and find some REALLY STUPID posts. For the 5.9L and 5.2L run Champion Cooper (OEM) or Champion Truck Plugs. I have seen mixed variations of performance in the Autolite 3923 spark plugs which I conclude to imperfections in the motor building from the OEM.
So, I changed the Cap/Rotor/Wires/Plugs, tossed in a K&N Filter Element (same size as standard). I used the premium brand (be damed if I can recall it) Cap, rotor, and wires. I used Bosch Platinum +4's (the kind that don't need to be gapped, on account of the four heads on each plug).
These motors are very picky. Take the whole thing back.
Now I'm partial to Auto Zone but do what you will.
1. Auto Zone cap and rotor with Brass Contacts.
2. OEM wires or MSD 8.5mm (Red) wires for performance ONLY.
3. I'd go with Champion Truck Plugs gaped at .040 and make sure that the wire are routed OFF the motor as per the TSB and try to keep them seporate as possible. NAPA still sells them.
4. Keep the K&N and install a Home Grown CIA as found here for a couple of bucks:
Custom made Front RAM air intake
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen-...ir-intake.html
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen-...e-ram-air.html
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen-...-for-5-2s.html
Stop and think about it? What happened? What changed? It's not the trans it's the motor. Now after you get this done you should have some $ left over for the new ATF+4 fluid and trans filter. Pull the pan, clean it out, install a filter, band adjust the transmission and away you go. DO NOT INSTALL ANY OTHER TYPE OF FLUID!!!!
Now I know you want to figure this out and you might not aggree. BUT JUST DO IT!