02 Durango Brakes lock first time used
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02 Durango Brakes lock first time used
My brakes will lockup the first time they are used after the car has been sitting for a few hours. Any ideas what causes this? They are fine after that, but the first time it will lock the brakes.
Hall Of Fame
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 14,228
Likes: 19
From: Riverton, UT
God we have been getting a lot of these lately........?
If you got the wrong shoes that would do it. In 02 and 03 they used wider shoes...... I think that was the right years...... I know the 03 for sure.
If you got the wrong shoes that would do it. In 02 and 03 they used wider shoes...... I think that was the right years...... I know the 03 for sure.
Champion
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,822
Likes: 4
From: Indiana
Yes. 2003 is all pads... no shoes.
If your rears are sticking, it is almost always the pesky star adjuster. You can take it off, clean and dry lube it, put it back and adjust all without taking the entire setup apart. I just did it two weeks ago.
Spray down each side with a can of brake cleaner. Take a close look at the cylinder to make sure it looks good. Also check each spring, etc. If everything looks good, get those stars working and it will be fine. Liquid Wrench has a great spray dry lube you can use. Never you any oil or grease... it will attract brake dust by the gobs and gum up everything. The dry spray has a liquid carrier that evaporates in seconds leaving just the dry lube.
Adjust the shoes out via the star adjuster until there is a slight drag when placing the drum back in place. If the drum slides on easy, adjust out a bit more. If the drum won't slide on, adjust in a tad. Just get it to SLIGHTLY drag and you are set.
If you have to scrap and replace the shoes, springs, etc... Never take both sides apart at once. Always use one side as the example of what the replacement parts is supposed to look it.
IndyDurango
If your rears are sticking, it is almost always the pesky star adjuster. You can take it off, clean and dry lube it, put it back and adjust all without taking the entire setup apart. I just did it two weeks ago.
Spray down each side with a can of brake cleaner. Take a close look at the cylinder to make sure it looks good. Also check each spring, etc. If everything looks good, get those stars working and it will be fine. Liquid Wrench has a great spray dry lube you can use. Never you any oil or grease... it will attract brake dust by the gobs and gum up everything. The dry spray has a liquid carrier that evaporates in seconds leaving just the dry lube.
Adjust the shoes out via the star adjuster until there is a slight drag when placing the drum back in place. If the drum slides on easy, adjust out a bit more. If the drum won't slide on, adjust in a tad. Just get it to SLIGHTLY drag and you are set.
If you have to scrap and replace the shoes, springs, etc... Never take both sides apart at once. Always use one side as the example of what the replacement parts is supposed to look it.
IndyDurango
Hall Of Fame
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 14,228
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From: Riverton, UT
1. You adjust the star adjuster until the drum fits over the shoes.
2. Fully seat the drums by installing the tire/rim.
3. Open the inspection window (small rectange rubber granment) on the inside bottom of the dust plate on the back side (under the truck).
4. With a brake adjuster tool,(or a good regular screw driver........LOL) adjust the star adjuster so the shoes have a little drag on it when the wheel is turned. This can be done turning the wheel while adjusting the star adjuster through the window. Only have one wheel off the ground at a time.
This is the proper way because the linings on the inside of the drum can be different than the unused portion that didn't get touched by the pads on the outside of the drum. The only proper way is to adjust the brakes to the drum while it is properly installed.
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Champion
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,822
Likes: 4
From: Indiana
As I re-read my instructions... yea... the drum fits over the shoes. As I described it I think.
There is no real need to add the rim and tighten down the lugs prior to doing your adjusting. The drums on a Durango will push on to a backstop in a flush/installed position as is. Since we are talking about adjusting brakes on a D and not EVERY other type of car that uses a rear drum... Let's do it the D-easy way instead! You are just asking to have to take it all off again if you rely on the blind peep-hole.
As for screwing with the rubber stopper in the back... only do that if you know you have working adjusters and know that everything else in there is working and clean. Since you must take off the drum to ensure all that, there is no reason to screw with the stopper and use the adjuster tool in the blind. Remember that the drums may need the help of a BFH to get them to come off. One of mine came off by hand while the other needed a lot of BFH pursuasion. My bet is that 90% of all of the Ds out there do NOT have freely working rear brakes at all times. Take the drums off, clean and adjust and then enjoy your new brake stopping power!
Adjust the stars the easy way by adjusting and sliding the drum on and off until correct. You can turn the clean, lubed star adjuster with a screwdriver or pliers. It's a piece of cake AND you get to see what you are doing. Working through the rubber stopper peep-hole isn't needed on our setup. Again, the drums will push on to a backstop in a flush/installed position as is. No need to go out and buy a special brake adjusting tool.
I just personally did all of this 13 days ago.
Didn't you just say 2 posts ago that you were sure the 03 had shoes? (yes
)
The prosecution rests. Your witness counselor.
IndyD
There is no real need to add the rim and tighten down the lugs prior to doing your adjusting. The drums on a Durango will push on to a backstop in a flush/installed position as is. Since we are talking about adjusting brakes on a D and not EVERY other type of car that uses a rear drum... Let's do it the D-easy way instead! You are just asking to have to take it all off again if you rely on the blind peep-hole.
As for screwing with the rubber stopper in the back... only do that if you know you have working adjusters and know that everything else in there is working and clean. Since you must take off the drum to ensure all that, there is no reason to screw with the stopper and use the adjuster tool in the blind. Remember that the drums may need the help of a BFH to get them to come off. One of mine came off by hand while the other needed a lot of BFH pursuasion. My bet is that 90% of all of the Ds out there do NOT have freely working rear brakes at all times. Take the drums off, clean and adjust and then enjoy your new brake stopping power!
Adjust the stars the easy way by adjusting and sliding the drum on and off until correct. You can turn the clean, lubed star adjuster with a screwdriver or pliers. It's a piece of cake AND you get to see what you are doing. Working through the rubber stopper peep-hole isn't needed on our setup. Again, the drums will push on to a backstop in a flush/installed position as is. No need to go out and buy a special brake adjusting tool.
I just personally did all of this 13 days ago.
Didn't you just say 2 posts ago that you were sure the 03 had shoes? (yes
)The prosecution rests. Your witness counselor.
IndyD
Last edited by IndyDurango; May 30, 2009 at 03:07 AM.
Hall Of Fame
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 14,228
Likes: 19
From: Riverton, UT
Smart ***!.......LOL
The idea works and can get it close BUT if the lineings are worn and the user dosen't see the ridge on the outside of the lineings and try's to install the drum they will install the drum just past the ridge lineings (right when they install them) and then the shoes aren't close enough as they will ride in the groves that the shoes origanally made during the life of them. The fact that the shoes don't come in FULL contact with the entire lineings and leave an outside ridge so it leaves false readings.
I personally have had a brake shoe stick on this outside ridge so the shoes were on a angle and gave a false reading. As a percausion I double checked everything because I didn't feel right and the shoes popped into the lineings and knocked the springs off. In this case of improper setting someone could have been hurt.
The way I describe it is only the propper way to set shoes. Yes it is a pain in the *** but it is the right way. As long as the person has properly set up the drums during install everything should be clean and ready.
Sounds like I need to do a DIY.
The defence rests and calls for the jury.
The idea works and can get it close BUT if the lineings are worn and the user dosen't see the ridge on the outside of the lineings and try's to install the drum they will install the drum just past the ridge lineings (right when they install them) and then the shoes aren't close enough as they will ride in the groves that the shoes origanally made during the life of them. The fact that the shoes don't come in FULL contact with the entire lineings and leave an outside ridge so it leaves false readings.
I personally have had a brake shoe stick on this outside ridge so the shoes were on a angle and gave a false reading. As a percausion I double checked everything because I didn't feel right and the shoes popped into the lineings and knocked the springs off. In this case of improper setting someone could have been hurt.
The way I describe it is only the propper way to set shoes. Yes it is a pain in the *** but it is the right way. As long as the person has properly set up the drums during install everything should be clean and ready.
Sounds like I need to do a DIY.
The defence rests and calls for the jury.