Map Sensor and PCV Valve location
#21
05-30-2009, 04:29 PM
Pics taken to show location of pcv valve on a 2000 Durango R/T with 5.9 engine.
Each pic should have a filename. Driverside, passengerside, and diagram. Diagram says it all.
Now that I know I was right, and parts guy was wrong, I finised replacing the pcv valve and rubber hose. Get this, all after market pcv valves that I bought, Napa, and Autozone, the pcv valve makes alot of clakering noise. When I was at the dodge parts counter, I said what the hell, I ordered a OEM pcv valve. OEM PCV valve do not claker noise. Very quiet. I can now enjoy and finish my 6 pack of dark guiness!
Each pic should have a filename. Driverside, passengerside, and diagram. Diagram says it all.
Now that I know I was right, and parts guy was wrong, I finised replacing the pcv valve and rubber hose. Get this, all after market pcv valves that I bought, Napa, and Autozone, the pcv valve makes alot of clakering noise. When I was at the dodge parts counter, I said what the hell, I ordered a OEM pcv valve. OEM PCV valve do not claker noise. Very quiet. I can now enjoy and finish my 6 pack of dark guiness!
Last edited by Kensai; 05-30-2009 at 04:34 PM.
#22
05-30-2009, 11:55 PM
Hall Of Fame
You bastard I want some Guiness!!!!...... Well I'm just sittin here drunk again with my whiskey/coke........LOL
-------> And this is the reason I said to check the diagram <-------
Nice to see you got it!...............I just went today to buy a new PCV valve from Auto Zone. Should have checked this post first. Either way I plan on doing a short DIY with pictures tomarrow and posting it here. It's sooooo easy but I figured I'd just do it for other in case they need it. Either way as long as you have Positive Crankcase Ventalation and it's doing it's job who cares exactly how it works as long as it does.
-------> And this is the reason I said to check the diagram <-------
Nice to see you got it!...............I just went today to buy a new PCV valve from Auto Zone. Should have checked this post first. Either way I plan on doing a short DIY with pictures tomarrow and posting it here. It's sooooo easy but I figured I'd just do it for other in case they need it. Either way as long as you have Positive Crankcase Ventalation and it's doing it's job who cares exactly how it works as long as it does.
#23
05-31-2009, 01:13 AM
Champion
Do we really have a thread on where the PCV is located? I always considered that simple stuff. Kensai, I believe all PCVs rattle. I was always taught that is how you know it is good. When it stops rattling it is time to replace. Maybe modern PCVs are different but every aftermarket one I have ever added to the D (annually) rattled. They are so cheap and available, I couldn't see a reason to use a factory replacement part.
Speaking of PCVs... what is the value of a PCV filter (one of those ball bearing deals)? Do they really help or make any real diference. I know if keeps oil of out the system but is it really enough to matter over time? A drop here or there isn't causing a lick of trouble I wouldn't think.
IndyDurango
Speaking of PCVs... what is the value of a PCV filter (one of those ball bearing deals)? Do they really help or make any real diference. I know if keeps oil of out the system but is it really enough to matter over time? A drop here or there isn't causing a lick of trouble I wouldn't think.
IndyDurango
#25
05-31-2009, 09:10 PM
Champion
#26
05-31-2009, 11:09 PM
Hall Of Fame
Speaking of PCVs... what is the value of a PCV filter (one of those ball bearing deals)? Do they really help or make any real diference. I know if keeps oil of out the system but is it really enough to matter over time? A drop here or there isn't causing a lick of trouble I wouldn't think.
IndyDurango
IndyDurango
You can't have vacuum only on the crank case or it sucks vapors into the crank case from the detonation of the cylinders and dose not vent the moisture/vapors pushed into the system. What I see in that figure is a PVC going into a vacuum port on the intake manifold. There is one more plugged off right next to it on the left in the picture. The PVC is on the passenger side as staited.
If you look at the drivers side of the motor THAT is a breather. It looks like a PVC but it is only an elbow and it is larger. Can you see how it is not connected to anything? Thats because it is suppost to connect to the air hat so that only clean filtered air goes into the crank case to fuel the Positive Crank Case Vacuum.
What happens during RPM is the cylinders aren't fully sealed and allow detonation vapors to enter the crank case and mix in the oil. This causes a corrosive mixture. Also in this corrosive mixture moisture that is not vented out of the crank case can cause sluge issues within this mixture. The PVC creates vacuum that can be cut off if for a minute if oil touches the intake because of the bee-bee. The breater takes in fresh clean air to replace the vacuumed air. This way it doesn't help suck in vapors.
Again look at your vacuum diagram under the hood.
The EGR is a figure of speech.
If you look at the drivers side of the motor THAT is a breather. It looks like a PVC but it is only an elbow and it is larger. Can you see how it is not connected to anything? Thats because it is suppost to connect to the air hat so that only clean filtered air goes into the crank case to fuel the Positive Crank Case Vacuum.
What happens during RPM is the cylinders aren't fully sealed and allow detonation vapors to enter the crank case and mix in the oil. This causes a corrosive mixture. Also in this corrosive mixture moisture that is not vented out of the crank case can cause sluge issues within this mixture. The PVC creates vacuum that can be cut off if for a minute if oil touches the intake because of the bee-bee. The breater takes in fresh clean air to replace the vacuumed air. This way it doesn't help suck in vapors.
Again look at your vacuum diagram under the hood.
The EGR is a figure of speech.
#27
06-01-2009, 11:20 PM
Do we really have a thread on where the PCV is located? I always considered that simple stuff. Kensai, I believe all PCVs rattle. I was always taught that is how you know it is good. When it stops rattling it is time to replace. Maybe modern PCVs are different but every aftermarket one I have ever added to the D (annually) rattled. They are so cheap and available, I couldn't see a reason to use a factory replacement part.
Speaking of PCVs... what is the value of a PCV filter (one of those ball bearing deals)? Do they really help or make any real diference. I know if keeps oil of out the system but is it really enough to matter over time? A drop here or there isn't causing a lick of trouble I wouldn't think.
IndyDurango
Speaking of PCVs... what is the value of a PCV filter (one of those ball bearing deals)? Do they really help or make any real diference. I know if keeps oil of out the system but is it really enough to matter over time? A drop here or there isn't causing a lick of trouble I wouldn't think.
IndyDurango
So last weekend was my first time to replace the PCV with the original OEM PCV and now all rattle (clattering noise) are gone and I am back with listening to a very quiet and fine tuned 5.9 idling happily!
#28
06-02-2009, 12:18 AM
Champion
in "PCV rattle", I mean via shaking it in your hand... NOT when installed and working.
A good PCV should rattle when shaking NOT INSTALLED. Either a new unit or one off the car to see if it is still good. That shows that the oil hasn't gummed up the insides.
I have never heard one rattle when installed. THAT would be weird for sure!
IndyD
A good PCV should rattle when shaking NOT INSTALLED. Either a new unit or one off the car to see if it is still good. That shows that the oil hasn't gummed up the insides.
I have never heard one rattle when installed. THAT would be weird for sure!
IndyD
#30
06-02-2009, 05:48 PM
Hall Of Fame