Transmission pan
Champion
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,822
Likes: 4
From: Indiana
Someone here sold a pan I was greatly considering at one time! Grrrrrr (kicking myself for not buying)
Anyways, IMHO... for the money just replace the stocker. No need to podwercoat, etc. Just make sure to hit the car wash with an underbody wash more frequently.
IndyD
Anyways, IMHO... for the money just replace the stocker. No need to podwercoat, etc. Just make sure to hit the car wash with an underbody wash more frequently.
IndyD
Thread Starter
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All Star
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 950
Likes: 0
From: MINNEAPOLIS, MN
UPDATE AND SOME GOOD NEWS
Took vehicle to Cottman's Transmission yesterday. They did fluid check, put on lift and inspected the pan. Also while it was up there, they did a pretty detailed under vehicle inspection, hood, lines, brakes, hoses, all fluids etc.. I went in for estimate on how much it would be to flush/r/r pan/fluid filter. ($200 by the way, $250 for AMSOIL synthetic, is that a good deal?)
Well, overall good condition, lines were good, said fluid looked clean, and well above normal condition and in normal quantity, and not a hint of burning or breakdown even with almost 30k since transmission rebuild.
PAN: with it being on the lift I got a different view and it doesnt look as bad as initially thought. Yes there is surface rust, and does need to be cleaned but it can be done with next fluid/filter r/r. Basically remove, clean sand, prime, paint exterior black, dry and replace.
Only immediate recommendations are Rear brakes both rotors and pads, and RT front CV AXLE.
I want to believe that this was straight, and seemed like a straight shooter. I was able to follow him and he walked me around the inspection, so he showed me the fluid, and I saw that is was pretty clean, in fact I was amazed at how clean it was. BAsed on his assessment he believes I can get about another 10k out of this fluid if I monitor. I figure that is at least through the summer, and I can change prior to my Minneapolis road trip.
SIDEBAR: The outer dust boot tore again, after less than a year, any ideas on what could be causing that?
So I was able to return the pan and filter to dealer, and can use credit towards rear brakes and rotors. Rears have about 2 1/3 years and almost 40k on them so I guess that is pretty good. What I really want to do is save up and get Front and Rear Rotors and pads and change all four corners at one time, to get a good baseline.
Any thoughts?
Took vehicle to Cottman's Transmission yesterday. They did fluid check, put on lift and inspected the pan. Also while it was up there, they did a pretty detailed under vehicle inspection, hood, lines, brakes, hoses, all fluids etc.. I went in for estimate on how much it would be to flush/r/r pan/fluid filter. ($200 by the way, $250 for AMSOIL synthetic, is that a good deal?)
Well, overall good condition, lines were good, said fluid looked clean, and well above normal condition and in normal quantity, and not a hint of burning or breakdown even with almost 30k since transmission rebuild.
PAN: with it being on the lift I got a different view and it doesnt look as bad as initially thought. Yes there is surface rust, and does need to be cleaned but it can be done with next fluid/filter r/r. Basically remove, clean sand, prime, paint exterior black, dry and replace.
Only immediate recommendations are Rear brakes both rotors and pads, and RT front CV AXLE.
I want to believe that this was straight, and seemed like a straight shooter. I was able to follow him and he walked me around the inspection, so he showed me the fluid, and I saw that is was pretty clean, in fact I was amazed at how clean it was. BAsed on his assessment he believes I can get about another 10k out of this fluid if I monitor. I figure that is at least through the summer, and I can change prior to my Minneapolis road trip.
SIDEBAR: The outer dust boot tore again, after less than a year, any ideas on what could be causing that?
So I was able to return the pan and filter to dealer, and can use credit towards rear brakes and rotors. Rears have about 2 1/3 years and almost 40k on them so I guess that is pretty good. What I really want to do is save up and get Front and Rear Rotors and pads and change all four corners at one time, to get a good baseline.
Any thoughts?
Champion
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,822
Likes: 4
From: Indiana
On your boot... is it a clean cut or just a rough tear?
$200 for pan drop, new filter and new fluid is about right. Use ATF+4 only. Not a shop blend equal that they come up with. Also, the Mopar trans filter is superior to an aftermarket filter. Compare the two and you will agree 100%. NEVER FLUSH.
IndyDurango
$200 for pan drop, new filter and new fluid is about right. Use ATF+4 only. Not a shop blend equal that they come up with. Also, the Mopar trans filter is superior to an aftermarket filter. Compare the two and you will agree 100%. NEVER FLUSH.
IndyDurango
Thread Starter
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All Star
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 950
Likes: 0
From: MINNEAPOLIS, MN
Today is my Friday at work so I can check it out either later today or tomorrow. From what I saw it was a fairly clean tear outboard cv joint, inner side of the joint cut a little past halfway clean radial cut on the high side. My initial thought (and still is pending further review) is that the old shocks were bottoming out, the original shocks had a two piece chamber and the upper cylinder was wider than the lower so it rode on the outside. I am figuring that it bottomed out on the cv boot while the wheels were turning , caught a sharp edge and tore the boot.
Again I willl inspect more closely today but based on the tear not getting worse since shocks were removed and the fact that the new shocks have a dust boot this sounds like the most likely conclusion. Still will require axle r/r or at least dust boot but with the price of labor for taking the axle apart it is usually cheaper and easier to spend the extra money and just r/r the whole axle. At least it was last summer I am figuring the same now.
Steve
Again I willl inspect more closely today but based on the tear not getting worse since shocks were removed and the fact that the new shocks have a dust boot this sounds like the most likely conclusion. Still will require axle r/r or at least dust boot but with the price of labor for taking the axle apart it is usually cheaper and easier to spend the extra money and just r/r the whole axle. At least it was last summer I am figuring the same now.
Steve
Champion
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,822
Likes: 4
From: Indiana
+1. If it touches anything, it will act as a lathe and cut a nice clean tear all the way around the boot. I had one that came off in two beautiful pieces after touching a wire tie I had on there. Doah!
IndyD
IndyD
Hall Of Fame
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 14,228
Likes: 19
From: Riverton, UT
I don't know why a tear could be happening. Get under there an check it out.
Stay away from the flush becasue they use miti-vihical transmission fluid that DOES NOT go in our truck. I don't care what they say! Just do a filter/fluid change and make sure they use AFT+4 only! Stand there and make sure they show you! Also, a flush blows seals in the transmissions so never do them!
BTW<------ Synthetic Fluid for More.....LOL...... ATF+4 is Fully Synthitic. This is the ONLY fluid to be used in your transmission!!!!!!!
Get the hell away from them!
Stay away from the flush becasue they use miti-vihical transmission fluid that DOES NOT go in our truck. I don't care what they say! Just do a filter/fluid change and make sure they use AFT+4 only! Stand there and make sure they show you! Also, a flush blows seals in the transmissions so never do them!
BTW<------ Synthetic Fluid for More.....LOL...... ATF+4 is Fully Synthitic. This is the ONLY fluid to be used in your transmission!!!!!!!
Get the hell away from them!
Last edited by hydrashocker; Jun 10, 2009 at 05:16 PM.
