stupid transmission
#1
06-08-2009, 10:27 AM
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stupid transmission
I have a 2000 Durango 4.7 with 45RFE transmission that's been acting up.
I bought it last fall and occasionally (about once per week) it would shift down and back up for no reason when cruising.
I changed the transmission fluid and filter and it maybe helped but it still had issues over the winter you couldn't start it cold and then put it in gear immediately or it would slip. I found that if you waited about 10-15 seconds after starting, it would do fine so it was no big deal.
Now this spring when it got warm it would slip some after long trips or towing something, and it was getting worse every week taking less and less to make it slip even some small hills with no load. So I changed the fluid and filter again a couple of weeks ago and it helped, no slipping for a week straight, I even pulled a load of mulch behind it up and down a hilly road with no problems. But last week, it started acting up again with the shifting for no reason and then Saturday morning I didn't make it a mile from the house when it downshifted hard and then nothing. I coasted and found a place to park, it won't do anything in any gear, they all act like neutral. Also, it set codes p0841, p0734 and p0876. I got them to clear but it's still dead.
I had someone pull it to my house last night and I'm at a loss what to do next and am looking for options. I don't really have $3000 to have it professionally repaired. I am not afraid to try swapping some parts myself and was looking at where you can get a valve body on eBay for a couple hundred dollars, could this be the problem? Has anyone had similar issues?
I bought it last fall and occasionally (about once per week) it would shift down and back up for no reason when cruising.
I changed the transmission fluid and filter and it maybe helped but it still had issues over the winter you couldn't start it cold and then put it in gear immediately or it would slip. I found that if you waited about 10-15 seconds after starting, it would do fine so it was no big deal.
Now this spring when it got warm it would slip some after long trips or towing something, and it was getting worse every week taking less and less to make it slip even some small hills with no load. So I changed the fluid and filter again a couple of weeks ago and it helped, no slipping for a week straight, I even pulled a load of mulch behind it up and down a hilly road with no problems. But last week, it started acting up again with the shifting for no reason and then Saturday morning I didn't make it a mile from the house when it downshifted hard and then nothing. I coasted and found a place to park, it won't do anything in any gear, they all act like neutral. Also, it set codes p0841, p0734 and p0876. I got them to clear but it's still dead.
I had someone pull it to my house last night and I'm at a loss what to do next and am looking for options. I don't really have $3000 to have it professionally repaired. I am not afraid to try swapping some parts myself and was looking at where you can get a valve body on eBay for a couple hundred dollars, could this be the problem? Has anyone had similar issues?
#2
06-08-2009, 01:35 PM
Hall Of Fame
P0841 Trans Fluid Press Sens/Switch A Circ Range/Perf
P0734 Gear 4 Incorrect Ratio
P0876 Trans Fluid Press Sens/Switch D Circ Range/Perf
Sounds like a torque convertor to me. You might want to Personal Message master tech.
P0734 Gear 4 Incorrect Ratio
P0876 Trans Fluid Press Sens/Switch D Circ Range/Perf
Sounds like a torque convertor to me. You might want to Personal Message master tech.
#3
06-08-2009, 06:31 PM
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Thanks Hydrashocker, I pm'd master tech to see if he has any insight.
About the torque converter, isn't is basically a centrifugal pump? Are you thinking that it's bad or that it's just not getting fluid? Could too much fluid be a problem, because if anything I may be about a quart overfull.
I have the Durango up on jackstands and I'm planning on dropping the pan tonight and looking around.
About the torque converter, isn't is basically a centrifugal pump? Are you thinking that it's bad or that it's just not getting fluid? Could too much fluid be a problem, because if anything I may be about a quart overfull.
I have the Durango up on jackstands and I'm planning on dropping the pan tonight and looking around.
#4
06-09-2009, 10:03 PM
Hall Of Fame
Overfill can cause problems as well as under filling.
This is out of the Service Manual:
This is out of the Service Manual:
FLUID LEVEL CHECK
Low fluid level can cause a variety of conditions
because it allows the pump to take in air along with
the fluid. As in any hydraulic system, air bubbles
make the fluid spongy, therefore, pressures will be
low and build up slowly.
Improper filling can also raise the fluid level too
high. When the transmssion has too much fluid, the
geartrain churns up foam and cause the same conditions
which occur with a low fluid level.
In either case, air bubbles can cause overheating
and/or fluid oxidation, and varnishing. This can
interfere with normal valve, clutch, and accumulator
operation. Foaming can also result in fluid escaping
from the transmission vent where it may be mistaken
for a leak.
Along with fluid level, it is important to check the
condition of the fluid. When the fluid smells burned,
and is contaminated with metal or friction material
particles, a complete transmission recondition is
needed. Be sure to examine the fluid on the dipstick
closely. If there is any doubt about its condition,
drain out a sample for a double check.
After the fluid has been checked, seat the dipstick
fully to seal out water and dirt.
The transmission fluid level should be inspected at
least every six months.
because it allows the pump to take in air along with
the fluid. As in any hydraulic system, air bubbles
make the fluid spongy, therefore, pressures will be
low and build up slowly.
Improper filling can also raise the fluid level too
high. When the transmssion has too much fluid, the
geartrain churns up foam and cause the same conditions
which occur with a low fluid level.
In either case, air bubbles can cause overheating
and/or fluid oxidation, and varnishing. This can
interfere with normal valve, clutch, and accumulator
operation. Foaming can also result in fluid escaping
from the transmission vent where it may be mistaken
for a leak.
Along with fluid level, it is important to check the
condition of the fluid. When the fluid smells burned,
and is contaminated with metal or friction material
particles, a complete transmission recondition is
needed. Be sure to examine the fluid on the dipstick
closely. If there is any doubt about its condition,
drain out a sample for a double check.
After the fluid has been checked, seat the dipstick
fully to seal out water and dirt.
The transmission fluid level should be inspected at
least every six months.
FLUID LEVEL CHECK PROCEDURE
The transmission has a dipstick to check oil level.
It is located on the right side of the engine. Be sure
to wipe all dirt from dipstick handle before removing.
The torque converter fills in both the P Park and N
Neutral positions. Place the selector lever in P Park
to be sure that the fluid level check is accurate.
It is located on the right side of the engine. Be sure
to wipe all dirt from dipstick handle before removing.
The torque converter fills in both the P Park and N
Neutral positions. Place the selector lever in P Park
to be sure that the fluid level check is accurate.
The
engine should be running at idle speed for at
least one minute, with the vehicle on level
ground.
At normal operating temperature (approximately
82 C. or 180 F.),
the fluid level is correct if it
is in the HOT region (cross-hatched area) on the oil
level indicator. The fluid level will be approximately
at the upper COLD hole of the dipstick at 70° F fluid
temperature.
engine should be running at idle speed for at
least one minute, with the vehicle on level
ground.
At normal operating temperature (approximately
82 C. or 180 F.),
the fluid level is correct if it
is in the HOT region (cross-hatched area) on the oil
level indicator. The fluid level will be approximately
at the upper COLD hole of the dipstick at 70° F fluid
temperature.
NOTE: Engine and Transmission should be at normal
operating temperature before performing this
procedure.
operating temperature before performing this
procedure.
(1) Start engine and apply parking brake.
(2) Shift the transmission into Drive for approximately
2 seconds.
(3) Shift the transmission into Reverse for approximately
2 seconds.
(4) Shift the transmission into Park.
(5) Hook up DRBIII scan tool and select transmission.
(6) Select sensors.
(7) Read the transmission temperature value.
(8) Compare the fluid temperature value with the
chart.
(9) Adjust transmission fluid level shown on the
dipstick according to the chart.
(2) Shift the transmission into Drive for approximately
2 seconds.
(3) Shift the transmission into Reverse for approximately
2 seconds.
(4) Shift the transmission into Park.
(5) Hook up DRBIII scan tool and select transmission.
(6) Select sensors.
(7) Read the transmission temperature value.
(8) Compare the fluid temperature value with the
chart.
(9) Adjust transmission fluid level shown on the
dipstick according to the chart.
NOTE: After adding any fluid to the transmission,
wait a minimum of 2 minutes for the oil to fully
drain from the fill tube into the transmission before
rechecking the fluid level.
(10) Check transmission for leaks.wait a minimum of 2 minutes for the oil to fully
drain from the fill tube into the transmission before
rechecking the fluid level.
#5
06-10-2009, 06:56 AM
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I removed the valve body and disassembled it. I cleaned every part and put it back together. I didn't find anything broken, bent, or blocked with debris. After new filters and fluid again, I started it and drove around close to home for 15-20 minutes like it never had a problem. This morning I will drive it to work and hopefully won't get stranded again. If it starts acting up again would you still suspect the torque converter? I had someone tell me last night that it could be the transmission temperature sensor, but could that totally disable everything, I would think it would only go into some kind of limp mode or set a code for temperature.
#6
06-10-2009, 05:51 PM
Hall Of Fame
It would go into limp mode.
I'm praying for ya.
I wonder about a clutch solenoid?
I'm praying for ya.
I wonder about a clutch solenoid?
TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH (TCC)
In a standard torque converter, the impeller and
turbine are rotating at about the same speed and the
stator is freewheeling, providing no torque multiplication.
By applying the turbine’s piston to the front
cover’s friction material, a total converter engagement
can be obtained. The result of this engagement
is a direct 1:1 mechanical link between the engine
and the transmission.
Converter clutch engagement in third or fourth
gear range is controlled by sensor inputs to the powertrain
control module. Inputs that determine clutch
engagement are: coolant temperature, engine rpm,
vehicle speed, throttle position, and manifold vacuum.
The torque converter clutch is engaged by the
clutch solenoid on the valve body.
The clutch can be
engaged in third and fourth gear ranges depending
on overdrive control switch position. If the overdrive
control switch is in the normal ON position, the
clutch will engage after the shift to fourth gear, and
above approximately 72 km/h (45 mph). If the control
switch is in the OFF position, the clutch will engage
after the shift to third gear, atturbine are rotating at about the same speed and the
stator is freewheeling, providing no torque multiplication.
By applying the turbine’s piston to the front
cover’s friction material, a total converter engagement
can be obtained. The result of this engagement
is a direct 1:1 mechanical link between the engine
and the transmission.
Converter clutch engagement in third or fourth
gear range is controlled by sensor inputs to the powertrain
control module. Inputs that determine clutch
engagement are: coolant temperature, engine rpm,
vehicle speed, throttle position, and manifold vacuum.
The torque converter clutch is engaged by the
clutch solenoid on the valve body.
The clutch can be
engaged in third and fourth gear ranges depending
on overdrive control switch position. If the overdrive
control switch is in the normal ON position, the
clutch will engage after the shift to fourth gear, and
above approximately 72 km/h (45 mph). If the control
switch is in the OFF position, the clutch will engage
