Hutch, they rate at 0 S.P. because that is a common baseline. A manufacturer can't possibly know what humidity you are running in verses what I am running in verses what the next guy is running in. Same for static pressure, ambient temps, etc. Thus it is common acceptable practice to standardize on a baseline. As long as you realize your particular results may vary since you are not operating at 0 static pressure, you are good to pick something higher up the scale. When you do all your testing, you too will need to have some sort of comparable baseline. A test in the back yard in Wisconsin isn't going to mean much to a guy in Las Vegas without standardized baselines. You will need to test in a common pressurized environment to be able to provide your own testing for others. While it may be great for you, not the same in Alaska or Florida or Dubai. That's why million$ of bucks are spent on R&D by manufactures and developers.

Kensai, looks like electricfanengineering.com's 16" only pushes 3000 CFM. There are better choices at 16". They jump from there to a 21" which doesn't fit our D needs whereas it's too big.

IndyDurango

 

Indy,

Keep in mind, '0' s.p. is impossible. Take this response I got from a manufacturer:

"The fans are tested across the board, we could care less what they do at 0 sp but its important they operate behind or in front of a radiator in a wide range of environmental conditions. 0 static pressure is simply the highest achievable number used for advertising claims, an established practice that as you obviously know is deceiving. If we were to publish test results in the 0.3-0.6 range fans typically operate, nobody would buy the fans. As it is now, most (almost all) of our competitors fudge their figures anyway. The data they claim is created by the marketing department, rather than R & D/Engineering. Many don’t have these departments but simply import prepackaged product from overseas and claim whatever they feel they need to in order to sell the product. Unfortunately testing is fairly expensive, so we have not tested all of our competitors products."

Please, don't say '0' is a realistic number or baseline, when the entire industry knows it's fake. Also, know when a fan is put into 'real world' conditions, it responds differently. Brand x might drop from 3000 cfm @ 0 to 2300 cfm @ .3, and work. Brand Y might go from 3000 at 0 down to 1500 cfm at .3, and cause you to overheat your motor.

Stop saying 0 is anything other then a fake number. I don't expect people to understand this right off the bat, but feel it needs to be out there so they don't fry their vehicles.

Honest advertising would specify a .3-.6 inch range for performance. STICK WITH THAT when sizing your fans guys, or you're risking your engine.

 

I installed the Flexalite VSC. I'm not using the AC terminal because my factory electric fan comes on with the AC. I'm using a standard 25 amp fuse instead of the monster fuse that came in the kit.


I drilled 3 holes into the battery holddown which is plastic and used small screws. That makes it easy to see the 4 LEDS and do all the wiring connections. Notice all the wiring has quick disconnects.

 

That works. I mounted mine on the fenderwell.

I used the fuel pump relay for key power and the AC relay to trigger the fan when the AC is on. I am adding the manual off/on too. Didn't think I would but after 700 miles on the interstate with the fan running the whole time due to the AC being on, I figured it makes sense to shut it down during interstate/ac travel times.

When triggering power/red via the fuel relay, there is a connection on the Flex-a-lite instructions that is not needed. See the altered instructions here:


IndyD

 

Well we have a hot topic growing don't we?.........LMFAO

 

lv, I'm gonna use your example and mount mine on the battery holddown, hope you don't mind.
Indy, where's the fuel pump relay and how did you connect it to the VSC? I thnk I just answered my own question to you in the other thread. You used the fuel pump relay to power the thermal control side and the a/c clutch compressor relay to control the VSC when the a/c come on?
Hydra, yeah it's getting to be a hot topic, can't wait to see how tihngs come out!

 

Great discussion guys, and here I thought the install was going to kick my butt an all along I had the wrong fan, well actually still have. I bought a Hayden 3700 from Orileys with controller that is all hooked up (need to know how to put the pictures on here) any way to my dismay I realized that it doesn’t pull enough air. 1400cfm and I have it mounted directly to the radiator; I just learned that is not the way to go, so if I get another one where are you guys getting the shrouds.
any way did someone say they found a 12 inch fan that pulls 2000cfm, is so please pass the part number along I will use two of them and be done. I did find 14 inchers but they both wont fit,
Also my question also is how much cfm should I be looking for, I did find a 17 inch Hayden that pulls according to the box 2100cfm
I really understand the not to put directly on the radiator but again how else can I put on they only come with those little ties that go through the radiator, and incase your wondering those suckers are fairly stout I had to use some wire snips to cut through them.

Great discussion, I had originally removed my clutch fan and installed a

 

Upload pic's to www.photobucket.com. Then go to the picture and copy the entire URL link in the lower of the 4 boxes and paste it in your post.

 

I've been reading the threads. New to forum and looking for increased power and economy. 2005, 3.7L V6 Dakota. Will this HAYDEN version work (from partstrain.com for $90) or does it not provide enough flow?

HAYDEN RAPID-COOL COOLING FAN, BLACK -- 14 in. diameter, 14.75 in. H, 13.875 in. W, 3.625 in. thick, 1,250 CFM free airflow, 1,050 CFM airflow through radiator, 11.5 amp draw, single fan, 8 blades, black blade and shroud color; Plastic blade and shroud material; Complete with mounting hardware; An economical replacement for failed OE parts; Provides 5-10 percent increase in horsepower and fuel mileage when replacing fan clutch and fan assemblies; Increases A/C performance due to constant airflow across the condenser and provides added cooling in heavy traffic or while towing; Features reversible push/pull blades, thin, aerodynamic profile for applications with limited space, full finger guard shroud, and high quality long life motors; Covers a wide variety of applications; Compatible with all fan controls.

 

personally, I would be looking for 2000+ CFM