Instrument panel swap???
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From: OHio
Instrument panel swap???
Ive got a 2002 durango slt with the boring flat black instrument panel with orangish red numbering. while i was looking at my buddies 2003 ram he has the white backing with pretty much the same setup minus the location of the gear selector readout and the odometer. is it possible you think to swap these from say a junker i dont like the aftermarket options i have as far as dash kits and the clearances seem to fit although i am not 100 percent sure. Regardless it is pretty easy to get mine out and probably the same for his but would it mess anything up pulling the guages of as a test fit? i couldnt find a pic of the dash i have but i am sure you all are familiar<<any info would be nice or options i possibly havent heard of yet>>
Last edited by bparina; Jun 24, 2009 at 04:02 PM.
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From: Indiana
Swap from a Ram? Nope.
eBay... look up dash gauge overlays. They have them by the hundreds. If you are not an eBay guy, here is a pro shop that can do anything you want: http://www.blackcatcustom.com/
HTH,
IndyDurango
eBay... look up dash gauge overlays. They have them by the hundreds. If you are not an eBay guy, here is a pro shop that can do anything you want: http://www.blackcatcustom.com/
HTH,
IndyDurango
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From: Riverton, UT
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From: Indiana
NuImage works too. Many of them and knock offs of them on eBay. Some you take off your needles, some you don't. Mine you didn't.
If you do pick a style that requires you to pull your needles, don't work. Be careful on removal and replacement (many use a kitchen fork) and place them back on in the same/close position you took them off from. A photo on your cell phone to look back on when putting them back on is just the ticket. Once they are back on, just make sure to run the calibration setup on them.
HTH,
IndyDurango
If you do pick a style that requires you to pull your needles, don't work. Be careful on removal and replacement (many use a kitchen fork) and place them back on in the same/close position you took them off from. A photo on your cell phone to look back on when putting them back on is just the ticket. Once they are back on, just make sure to run the calibration setup on them.
HTH,
IndyDurango
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From: Indiana
Yep. You would want to run the needle calibration setup ANYTIME you pull the needles for anything. Otherwise, you will not have accurate needle readings.
When you run the calibration, if everything is okay, the needles will move to three different readings, returning to zero each time.
Gauge: First stop - Second stop - Third stop
Battery: 9.5 (first line) - 16 - 18
Coolant: 140 (first line) - 210 - 260
Tachometer : 1000 - 3000 - 5900
Speedometer: 20 - 55 - 120 (the only time most of you will ever see your Speedo at the 120MPH setting
Oil pressure: 35 - 55 - 110
Fuel: 1/8 - 1/4 - Full
After you run the test, if your needles are not correct, pull the one off that is incorrect and reposition it and test again. Usually, the calibration will take care of it for you.
Before the gauges are checked and calibrated, all of the lamp bulbs will be tested too.
If the recal FAILS before the test, you will get a code in the odo that you can cross reference to find out the problem.
Begin the test with the ignition switch in the Off position. Depress the trip odometer reset button. While holding the trip odometer reset button depressed, turn the ignition switch to the On position, but do not start the engine. Keep the trip odometer reset button depressed for about ten seconds, until CHEC appears in the odometer display, then release the odometer reset button.
If you get a 3 digit failure messages in the odometer display, see the Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators/Instrument Panel/Instrument Cluster Failure Message chart for the description and proper correction.
If no failure message appears, the Self-Diagnostics will proceed.
The cluster will begin the odometer walking segment test. This test will require the operator to visually inspect each odometer segment as it is displayed to determine a pass or fail condition. First, all of the segments will be illuminated at once; then, each individual segment of the odometer display will be illuminated in sequence. If any segment in the display fails to illuminate, repeat the test to confirm the failure. If the failure is confirmed, replace the faulty instrument cluster.
Following the odometer walking segment test, the cluster Self-Diagnostic Test will automatically proceed.
The cluster will perform a bulb check of each indicator lamp that the cluster circuitry controls. If an individual amber indicator lamp does not illuminate during this test, the instrument cluster should be removed. However, check that the incandescent lamp bulb is not faulty and that the bulb holder is properly installed on the circuit board before considering instrument cluster replacement.
Following the bulb check test, the cluster Self-Diagnostic Test will automatically proceed. The cluster will perform a gauge actuator test. In this test the cluster positions each of the gauge needles at three different calibration points, then returns the gauge needles to their relaxed positions. If an individual gauge does not respond properly or at all during the gauge actuator test, the instrument cluster should be removed. However, check that the gauge terminal pins are properly inserted through the spring-clip terminal pin receptacles on the circuit board before considering instrument cluster replacement. If the gauge terminal connections are OK replace the faulty instrument cluster.
The Self-Diagnostic Test is now completed.
The cluster will automatically exit the self-diagnostic mode and return to normal operation at the completion of the test.
If you have never done this on your D, try it out. You will be amazed at how cool it is AND that you never knew you have a diagnosis tool built into the Ds programming. We have surprisingly modern vehicles.
**IF** you get a failure error, here is the testing message chart:
IndyDurango
When you run the calibration, if everything is okay, the needles will move to three different readings, returning to zero each time.
Gauge: First stop - Second stop - Third stop
Battery: 9.5 (first line) - 16 - 18
Coolant: 140 (first line) - 210 - 260
Tachometer : 1000 - 3000 - 5900
Speedometer: 20 - 55 - 120 (the only time most of you will ever see your Speedo at the 120MPH setting
Oil pressure: 35 - 55 - 110
Fuel: 1/8 - 1/4 - Full
After you run the test, if your needles are not correct, pull the one off that is incorrect and reposition it and test again. Usually, the calibration will take care of it for you.
Before the gauges are checked and calibrated, all of the lamp bulbs will be tested too.
If the recal FAILS before the test, you will get a code in the odo that you can cross reference to find out the problem.
Begin the test with the ignition switch in the Off position. Depress the trip odometer reset button. While holding the trip odometer reset button depressed, turn the ignition switch to the On position, but do not start the engine. Keep the trip odometer reset button depressed for about ten seconds, until CHEC appears in the odometer display, then release the odometer reset button.
If you get a 3 digit failure messages in the odometer display, see the Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators/Instrument Panel/Instrument Cluster Failure Message chart for the description and proper correction.
If no failure message appears, the Self-Diagnostics will proceed.
The cluster will begin the odometer walking segment test. This test will require the operator to visually inspect each odometer segment as it is displayed to determine a pass or fail condition. First, all of the segments will be illuminated at once; then, each individual segment of the odometer display will be illuminated in sequence. If any segment in the display fails to illuminate, repeat the test to confirm the failure. If the failure is confirmed, replace the faulty instrument cluster.
Following the odometer walking segment test, the cluster Self-Diagnostic Test will automatically proceed.
The cluster will perform a bulb check of each indicator lamp that the cluster circuitry controls. If an individual amber indicator lamp does not illuminate during this test, the instrument cluster should be removed. However, check that the incandescent lamp bulb is not faulty and that the bulb holder is properly installed on the circuit board before considering instrument cluster replacement.
Following the bulb check test, the cluster Self-Diagnostic Test will automatically proceed. The cluster will perform a gauge actuator test. In this test the cluster positions each of the gauge needles at three different calibration points, then returns the gauge needles to their relaxed positions. If an individual gauge does not respond properly or at all during the gauge actuator test, the instrument cluster should be removed. However, check that the gauge terminal pins are properly inserted through the spring-clip terminal pin receptacles on the circuit board before considering instrument cluster replacement. If the gauge terminal connections are OK replace the faulty instrument cluster.
The Self-Diagnostic Test is now completed.
The cluster will automatically exit the self-diagnostic mode and return to normal operation at the completion of the test.
If you have never done this on your D, try it out. You will be amazed at how cool it is AND that you never knew you have a diagnosis tool built into the Ds programming. We have surprisingly modern vehicles.
**IF** you get a failure error, here is the testing message chart:
IndyDurango
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From: Riverton, UT
I just found that in the manual........ Your a useful person Indy!
I've been wondering about mu temp guage. During the test, it goes 140-250-260
Can just that gauge be replaced? It's not the sending unit, I ruled that out already.
I've been wondering about mu temp guage. During the test, it goes 140-250-260
Can just that gauge be replaced? It's not the sending unit, I ruled that out already.
Last edited by hydrashocker; Jun 21, 2009 at 11:06 PM.
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From: Indiana
Didn't you know I am a Durango-Jedi? LOL
Tell us a little about your gauges sir. Stock or an overlay? Ever had the pod out or ever had the needles off?
While you can try to reposition the needles, I suggest re-running the setup... maybe even twice more. If it doesn't change, the gauge pod need replaced entirely. It's easy and if you don't have an overlay... it is the perfect opportunity to do so on the new one. I think I have/had one for sale actually.
IndyD
Last edited by IndyDurango; Jun 22, 2009 at 12:49 AM.
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From: Riverton, UT
Never had it out. Never played with it. Judging from the manual it should just be the guage it's self and maybe a lil soder.
Ran the setup about 8 times and still the same thing. It hits the last line (aprox 250) and it's only wrong on that one. Everything else is fine. I'll have to rip into it.
Ran the setup about 8 times and still the same thing. It hits the last line (aprox 250) and it's only wrong on that one. Everything else is fine. I'll have to rip into it.