After lurking on the forum for awhile I have not saw the information I have been looking for. Most likely I have missed it. If so please give me a link and I can go there rather than wasting your time typing.

1. Rear yoke seal. I have a small leak at the yoke of the rear axle. I called a shop and was told it would be around $100 to fix. That leads me to believe it may not be a difficult fix, just time consuming. Is this something your average guy can fix? Can someone give me a break down? I was under the assumption that the nut that holds the yoke on is also what sets your pinion pre-load via a crush sleeve. If I take that nut off to replace the seal, would I be messing with the pre-load?

2. Shocks. I need some. I do your average daily driving. I also hit the fire trails from time to time and we get some snow. I will use 4 wheel drive for the snow but not for the fire trails as I avoid anything ruff. Is there anything you guys would recommend?

3. Synthetic tranny fluid. I have been considering switching my tranny over to something synthetic. Im still not sure if it is worth it or not. Any thoughts? Also if I go ahead and do it, how do you get the old tranny fluid out of the system? I understand you have to drop the pan, but that does not empty the torque converter or the radiator how do I get around that?

4. More fluids. My D has around 95k on it. I do not think the fluids in the diffs, tranny, or transfer case have ever been changed. I figure it is well past time. As stated above I have been considering switching to synthetic. Is there anything I sould be aware of? Is there a certian brand or type to look for? My book specifies what weight I should use. It does not really explain the difference in price of the fluids at the store. What is everyone using? Why? Are there any problems with making the switch?

I realize many of the questions I am asking will get me opinions more than hard facts. I have to start somewhere otherwise I am at the mercy of the kid behind the counter at the parts store.

Thanks for any help you guys may be able to provide,

Anthony

 

1)seal info below - skill level, comfort zoine, tools your call
post if your doing will highlight some procedures.

2) shocks- see whats on sale at the discounters autozone, advance auto...orielys etc...monroe gabriel etc gas filled - nothing at the extereme of offroading needed.

3)Synthetic tranny fluid.. good idea your correct about getting all conventional out..no flushing trans recomended

I would suggest, one thing at a time...the pinion seal, drain and refill use synthetic..
next replace pan filter drain the transfer case refill conventional BUT add a trans cooler - money very well spent...

during these one at atime projects keep an eye on shock prices you will learn a good deal..... afterr the above repairs are done money is straight again, buy the shocks when on sale. they cycle on and off sale. there is no once in a lifetime shock sale.

Pinion Seal

Removal & Installation



To Remove:

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section.
2. Safely raise and support the vehicle.
3. Remove the wheel and tire assemblies.
4. Mark the universal joint, companion flange and pinion shaft for reference.
5. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Drive shaft from the companion flange
   • Brake drums to prevent any drag
   
   
6. Rotate companion flange three or four times and record pinion rotating torque with an inch pound torque wrench.
7. Install two bolts 180 degrees apart into the companion flange threaded holes
8. Position Holder 6719A against the companion flange and install and tighten two bolts and washers into the remaining holes.
9. Hold the companion flange with Holder 6719A and remove pinion nut and washer.
   
   
10. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Companion flange with Remover C-452
    • Pinion seal with pry tool or slide hammer mounted screw

To Install:

1. Apply a light coating of gear lubricant on the lip of pinion seal.
   
   
2. Install or connect the following:
   • New pinion seal with Installer C-3860-A and Handle C-4171
   • Companion flange on the end of the shaft with the marks aligned
   • Two bolts into the threaded holes in the companion flange, 180 degrees apart
   • Holder 6719 in position against the companion flange, install a bolt and washer into one of the remaining threaded holes and tighten the bolts so the holder is held to the flange
   • Companion flange on pinion shaft with Installer C-3718 and Holder 6719
   • Pinion washer and a new pinion nut with the convex side of the washer facing outward
   CAUTION
   Never exceed the minimum tightening torque 210 ft. lbs. (285 Nm) when installing the companion flange retaining nut.
   
   
   
3. Hold companion flange with Holder 6719 and tighten the pinion nut
   • Torque to: 210 ft. lbs. (285 Nm)
4. Rotate pinion with an inch pound torque wrench. Rotating torque should be equal to the reading recorded during removal plus an additional 5 inch lbs. (0.56 Nm) CAUTION
   Never loosen pinion nut to decrease pinion bearing rotating torque and never exceed specified preload torque. If rotating torque is exceeded, a new collapsible spacer must be installed.
5. If rotating torque is low, use Holder 6719 to hold the companion flange and tighten pinion nut in 5 ft. lbs. (3.5 Nm) increments until proper rotating torque is achieved. NOTE: The bearing rotating torque should be constant during a complete revolution of the pinion. If the rotating torque varies, this indicates a binding condition.
6. Install or connect the following:
   • Drive shaft with the installation reference marks aligned
     1. Companion flange bolts – Torque to: 80 ft. lbs (108 Nm)
   • Brake drums, wheel and tire assemblies
7. Lower the vehicle.
8. Check the differential lubricant level.

 

Not that hard but if u don't get it right u just lost money and time then still have to pay to get it done.



Monroe Reflex
bilstein
Edelbrock IAS shocks

ATF+4 is synthetic transmission fluid

Mopar tranny fluid
Transfer case the same (mopar)
Differential Mobil 1 and and add a friction modifier.

Why? because of the standards in the quality of oils they make.. Others say they "meet" the guidelines but Mobile goes beyond that and then some (as well as mopar tranny fluid, you can't go wrong using it, buy the stuff at walmart, they sell it there in a all black bottle .)

 

Sticky this HS for pinion seal replacement. Over time, more of us will need this data.

IndyD

 

Agreed 100%

 

Done..........

 

All I can say is Great job everyone!