its always a fun afternoon to put the truck up on four jackstands and do an air drive.. do this in 2wd and 4wd.. you should be able to trace down alot of the little noises.. if you dont have a limited slip then you can hold tires still to see if you can stop the noise.. doing that will tell you that its a wheel bearing or something.. if you have a really good long extension you can hold one end against the moving transfer case or differential and the other end against ur ear and listen for the grinding or whining..

think safety when doing this though.. hands/clothes/tools don't go well with moving parts.. use sturdy jack stands and don't redneck engineer something unless its safe..

 

The only problem with this act is that it's kinda bad on the diff's and without the added load on the componants you might not see anything.

 

OK Saturday is D-Day.. The D gets put up on 4 stands and the front and rear diffs done, along with the transfer case.

But can you guys tell me the capacities on these components? I want to stop and pick up every thing on the way to where I'm doing this.

Thanks again guys,

David

 

When you pull the fluids you should be able to tell where your issue is. I would filter the oil that you drain out as well and see what kind of destruction you're dealing with and where it is coming from. Also if you have 4wd make sure you have the gearing matched on the diff's.

 

Well here is the deal. I didn't take pics, the camera was dead. I only did the rear since I ran into all kinds of problems..

Finally got the rear cover off and the thickest, blackest, tar came oozing out. I mean it was vile.... I let it drain for probably 30 - 40 minutes. Afterward I started wiping some of the gears off and I think I found the problem.

If you are looking at the ring gear, (I think its the ring gear, its in line with the truck) The teeth are curved and the last 1/4 to 1/2 inch is beveled to a point. This looks like the only source of wear I can find. Maybe slop in a bearing someplace. I couldn't find any wear on the pinion (the gear attached to the drive shaft)

That stuff was tooo thick to attempt to filter it out. I'm guessing thats the source of all my noise. Plus it was low on oil, or tar whichever you prefer. Also the grinding in the front, I've attributed to a loose caliper from a stripped bolt. But that repair is above my pay grade so my family mechanic is going to tackle that one.

The search is on for a junk yard rear end..

I don't think I have the tools and ability to re-build the rear end although it would probably be quite fun to rebuild it as a LSD.

Ohh BTW it was an open diff

Thanks Guys!!!!

 

An LS differential is rebuildable but from what you are discribing it sounds like your Pinion and Ring Gear are not set to the correct backlash.

Differential
Pinion seal replacement
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1791583-post2.html
Track Lock Differential Rebuild
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen-...c-lok-lsd.html
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen-...lp-please.html

 

+1 indy

 

I know of a 392 open rear end over my way.


Still I think you should try to replace the fluid and button it back up. Drive it for a few hundred miles then replace the lubricant again before I would go paying for a new one or other. At least try!

 

why should you not change form regular to synthetic if your engine has high mileage on it?

if you have 87k on your engine could you still switch from reg to synthetic?

 

Change over to Fully Synthetic with only 87k.


The reasons high mileage motors should be careful is not from a lubrication stand point but more of a better cleaning problem. Fully Synthetic has better detergents in it so it helps to clean out the junk. Well sometimes in high mile engines it cleans out the deposits that might be holding back a leak or open areas allowing seepage. With only 87k switch over. I like Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W-30 Fully Synthetic and you can pick up a 5qt container of it at Wal-Mart for $22 bucks.