Periodically my 98 5.2 jerks/hesitates while at speed. There are 150k miles on it. Seems more common at highway speeds, but is not consistent. Sometimes slower at around 40mph. It feels more like an engine miss but could be tranny. Have been told that it is the tranny is slipping.

The engine rpms fall slightly when it jerks, if it was the tranny wouldn't it rise? Also, I can accelerate hard onto freeway and no slips so not sure it's the tranny, unless maybe the torque converter gets an air bubble or something? But at those speeds shouldn't it be locked? Other thought was maybe lockup solenoid in tranny is weak and the jerk is converter locking/unlocking? Feels like jerk is too quick for that. Other thoughts?

I have replaced injectors, plugs, wires, and coil pack within last year. Only thing left is distributor cap. Could worn rotor cause my symptoms? Is that tough to replace? Seems like its tucked under firewall lip and could be a PITA.

 

the cap and rotor are not hard to get to once you take the air hat off the intake, just dont drop anything in there, lol

and it could the tps sensor going bad, its a pretty simple fix, and if you havnt done it recently i would suggest having the trans fluid/filter replaced and the bands adjusted, but start with the easy/cheap stuff and go from there,

btw: if it feels like a miss to you than start with the cap/rotor and what plugs did you use? if you didnt use champion copper core plugs kick yourself in the *** and go change them , then change the TPS and see if that helps, its a pretty common culprit for something like this especiallyl if it happens w/ the cruise on

 

I should have mentioned I have no idiot lights / codes.

Using el cheapo champion copper. The Autozone guy tried to tell me it came with platinum (politely informed him he was crazy) and I was thinking about upgrading to Champion Truck plugs, but no one seems to carry them. What major chain stores stock these if any? Maybe I'm asking for the wrong things. They run a computer search and I tell them 98 Durango 5.2 4x4 and I ask if they have Champion Truck plugs and there is no listing. Is there an interchange?

I'm not using OEM wires, but they are routed properly. Thought about MSDs but looks like why have to be ordered, and I don't want to wait. Unless anyone knows of a major chain that stocks these? I have struck out calling around so far.

I have done more searching on the forum and people are recommending replacing MAP sensor and TPS. Can I throw my multimeter on the TPS and check the voltage output to see if its bad? What should it be at idle and at Wide Open Throttle?

Got a cap and rotor kit at Pep boys but then read on here that people like the AutoZone with brass contacts? Not sure what the Pep boys is, but it was $20. Can I tell by looking at contacts if it's brass or copper?

I'm in Michigan and would love to get through the winter without a tranny service as it's real cold right now, and my garage ain't heated. But that is probably next on the list.

 

seems to be that .3-.7V on the middle terminal is the norm, .7-.75 is ideal, and im not 100% sure but the top end should be around 4 or 5v at WOT

 

NAPA is about the only ones that still carry them.

Also, it sounds like you've done your home work. Those guys are paid to tell you to try em......LOL

That parts guy is an idiot. The fast part number is CHA 4436 and the Gap is .040.
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Det...+50022+2022007

Here s some part numbers and you can order: https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...-ignition.html

You can order at www.summitracing.com.

Summit does a good job. Carquest did have an account at one time but even then I ordered. 4wheel parts or other performance shop might stock em.

TPS should be placed at .72 volts for optimum performance with the key on run (but not started) and multi-meter between the middle wire and battery terminal. Anything under .50 volts I'd replace. WOT should be 4.5 Volts. Do not test while the motor is running.

The contacts on the cap you could tell but the contact on the rotor you woun't be able to tell if it is brass. The main thing you can do is call and ask.

Remember to use ATF+4 fluid ONLY and adjust the trans while you are there.

 

UPDATE: Over the weekend did a bunch of maintenance, including new cap, rotor, and el cheapo OEM Champion copper plugs. Couldn't lay my hands on Champion Truck plugs. The NAPA dealer said the number CHA 4436 has been superceded, and turns out the replacements are platinum so I said pass.

Took the time to properly route the plug wires. Except when I went to start it and back out of the garage it started to backfire like crazy. Turns out some idiot crossed wires 1 and 3. I blame Bud Light. After swapping wires, the D runs like a champ. No misses at freeway speeds.

 

glad we could help, and thanks for reporting back what ya did that worked

 

Keep that idjit and his bud light away from your D! LOL...

 

Question for you? Is this like a real hard stumble? Almost like ignition shuts out for a second? Mine occasionally does that, never have been able to figure out why. Only does it once every 4 or 5 months though.

 

It was a pretty hard miss. So yeah it could feel like an ignition shutdown. For the longest time I couldn't decide if it was the tranny or an engine miss. Almost felt like bad gas/water in the tank, but it didn't last long enough and I had put plenty of tanks through to feel like that was the problem. During the miss, RPMs would drop not rise, and it was so intermittent my gut said it was engine, not tranny. It definately drove me nuts whenever I had some windshield time trying to listen to every noise the truck would make trying to figure out what it felt like.

I did have a slow weep from the tranny pan gasket, so I also toyed with the idea an air bubble in the torque converter, but I kept the fluid nice and topped off. It happened too quickly for it to be an unlock/relock of torque converter, plus if that was the case I think RPMs would rise, not fall. The final nail in the tranny coffin was it would likely slip all the time, especially under load if the tranny was the culprit. I could accelerate hard on an on ramp and it wouldn't miss.

But there were no codes and it was so sporadic it was tough to troubleshoot. I used to commute about 45 minutes each way on the freeway and it would usually do it at least once each way. Sometimes several times in a row almost like it was going to stall out, but it would recover fairly quickly. Rarely at speeds below 50mph, but it did happen.

So once you start thinking engine, it can't be many things. You need fuel, air, and spark. Air is pretty no brainer assuming your filter isn't caked, and I had done injectors within the last year and had plenty of pressure at the rail, so probably not fuel. That left spark. I replaced plugs, wires, and coil, and that didn't help. The plugs I had in there were autolite coppers, and I replaced with $1.50 Champion OEM coppers. I also replaced the distributor cap and rotor. The truck has 150k miles on it, and that cap/rotor was original. The rotor was in good shape, but the inside contacts on the cap had some real nice scars in them.

I can't tell you exactly what the fix was, but I'm leaning towards the plugs. I did take the time to follow the TSB under the DIY sticky about routing wires. Not sure that was the key either, but couldn't hurt.

Plenty here will swear by Champion OEM coppers (Hydrashocker), and my case would seem to support that fact. For a little over $10, I would start with your plugs and go from there. Ask questions here and I'm sure the good folks of the forum would love to help you out!