Do you know if the blend door could have the same effect on the air conditioning? I can deal with it not working in the winter, but in the summer I wans't sure if it would have the same affect on the air conditioning.

 

From my research (haven't personally torn the dash apart... yet) yeah I believe it can. The temp control is a mechanical cable and controls the blend door that diverts airflow between the A/C coil and heater core. If the door is stuck on heater core side, your A/C will probably not be as cold as it should. Turn the fan on high and you should be able to hear a change (and feel a temp difference) if you rotate the control from extreme cold to extreme hot. This is a differnent mechanism than what controls airflow to defrost, dash vents, or floor vents. That is vaccum actuated and notorious for a broken vacuum line since Dodge decided to use a cheap a$$ hard plastic brittle tube!

 

I just flushed mine tonight and found a hole in that vacuum line. Heat worked great after that. My wife loves me again. To flush mine I took a 5/8 garden hose repair kit, cut my garden hose and hooked it directly to the bottom after I took it off of the water pump (i believe) and then cut a small piece of hose from the garden hose and put in place of the top hose on the heater core. Back flushed it for a few minutes then reversed it for a few. Let it sit then did it again. After I put it all back together the difference in the heat was very noticable.

 

Congrats on the fix..
Side note to everyone
I wanted to make a note to the others about some of the flush kits availible on the market. Most include a chemical flush, which is designed to be used in conjunction with water when the entire coolant system is empty. Its not made to run in the vehicle, its just a mometary item that cannot be left in the coolant system due to their compounds reaction past the gunk removal. The inline flush adapters to clear the core also ineffective, part being that when you clear the blockage it is just re-circulated back into the cooling system.
Flushing the HC with water from the hose is always a great way to a temporary fix, i always recomend a system flush (per a service station) afterwards for the best results. Remember, that gunk inside your heater core is also inside your cooling system. So save future issues and have a shop flush the engine/radiator to prevent the buildup there returning to the heater core.

 

Glad to see you got it!

 

ok so my boyfriend was looking at everything and noticed that my air conditioning was kicking on when the heat was running. Is it normal for that to happen. He pulled the relay but still didnt do anything with the heat not being hot. Ill have to bring it to a shop and have them flush it and see if that works cause driving to work sux with barely warm heat

 

the AC goes on regardless of temp setting when you use the defrost setting otherwise you have the a/c button turned on in the dash control panel

 

Update... Flush only lasted 3 days then had to do it again. This time I flushed the entire system as best I could at the house with the temp outside already at 33 degrees. Hoping this will last til this crazy arctic blast is gone. Ten straight days below freezing is unreal here in North Central Florida. Anyways, after flush had great heat again. Just got off the phone with a local shop and he said he would replace heater core and evap for around $650. Guess thats my next step.

 

33, i'd be wearing a t-shirt Only 12 outside now, isnt too bad should be getting a lil better. As for the Florida issue i understand that, two years attending MMI/etc/etc had me wearing a sweatshirt at 60 degrees

It is a pain dealing with HC issues, and i can understand people paying out to not having to teardown.
Usually if a HC is not leaking (or AC is up to par) i'd say try your best not to replace it.
I would recomend using a "brand" name chemical flush only to the heater core via hoses (not letting any into the engine) following the brands exact directions. Then following the directions flush it with water untill empty of chem's. After that i'd recomend connecting both HC lines from the engine together (as a splice, w/clamps) and covering the HC lines at the firewall.
Then you can bring it to a shop to have the engine/cooling flushed (generaly shops have better equipment than consumers can do on their own) asking them only after they were done that they could connect the HC lines/fill and purge the system.

I mention all of this because in the end you may be getting rid of the core so why not take the chance of caustic chemicals that could possibly solve all issues. Worst that could happen would be the Hc leak.

 

Duranged408, It was suggested by the guy that runs our motor pool at work to do similar by just doing the heater core, but he suggested using CLR or Lime Away. Said that's what they do to the vehicles at work. When I tried to flush the whole system the other night it was nasty, very nasty. So other than the what to flush the heater core with that sounds like a good idea. Any thoughts on the CLR or Lime Away?