What do you think would have to be done to a stock D to fit 33x12.5 tires?

 

Also, what would you expect to pay for the 33x10.5 BFGs all terrain?

 

you need 2" offset rims for 12.5 tires and lookin to pay about $700-$800 for 10.5 BFG.

 

So Dislander, when it was all said an done, what have you done to make the 33X1050s fit on your D? Also, how much has that cost you? Sorry to bring this back up but i gotta know!

 

didn't have to do anything more than Whats in the thread. they fit fine with no rubbing after the 2inch torsion bar & shackle lift. shackle kit was about 30 bux with shipping from summit. about an hour labor to pull the hitch install the shackle kit then crank up the front . I have since last post added poly stops in front & two inch drop polly stops in the rear. cost there was around sixty.

I have also installed a new set of kybs, slightly longer than stock to allow more drop flex in the rear.

All together including the 570 for tires I'm at about 700 for lift related stuff.

I never had to trim anything or relocate the bumper. Again I have stock rims with the proper offset. if your wheels are aftermarket they will likely have more neg offset & this would definitely cause rubbing issues in the front. mainly backside of front bumper & rear of front wheel well. Using the re indexing key & a set of air bags or ad-a-leafs would put you at three inches & I think would accommodate aftermarket wheels or possibly 12.50's.

Perhaps my truck is somehow unique but I wheel the hell out of this truck & have not had any contact other than polishing a spot on the front frame horns. a small adjustment of the turn stops would end that contact as well but I don't find it to be an issue as it's only at full turn lock & full compression and only when in four wheel drive.

Shackle kit (Summit racing)
tires (Tire rack) mounted & balanced at a trustworthy used tire place. ten bucks each.
Alignment @ sears with me over their shoulder. lifetime 120
kyb gas adjust brake parts .com 30ish bux each
Poly stops energy suspension @ 4wheel drive parts.com.

I will likely get the re-indexing keys just to make sure after the winch bumper & winch w/ extra batt won't affect the front ride height.

when doing the shackles YES the fact hitch must come out or you cannot remove the bolts. the hitch removal took ten min tops, putting it back maybe another ten. much less hassle than chasing down new bolts should you cut the old ones. as for needing new hardware, would you replace them if you were not doing the shackles? Of course mine were not rusty or otherwise fubar. benefit of living on the west coast.

Spray everything down with PB Blaster (avail @ napa) for a day or two prior & it will come apart like butter, by comparison anyway.

Next up for mine is a locker for the rear to help make up for the limited front flex, then new bumpers.

My budget has been going to fixing stuff & getting the front end rebuilt but soon I'll be back to the fun stuff. trying to sort out a snorkel is also on the list.

 

I'm no where near as mechanically inclined as you are so sorry for the stupid question... What are polly stops and kybs?

 

poly bump stops and kyb shocks, if you existing bump stops are fine and the shocks are fine dont waste your money on them

 

Polyurethane bump stops. i used these due to them being much stiffer than stock. I only used them on the compression side to give me just that last bit of clearance insurance in the front. the poly stops don't compress as much thus the wheel won't stuff up in the wheel well by that same amount. bought me an extra 1/4 inch of clearance at full compression.

I used a two inch extended compression stop in the rear only to keep the rear spring from counter flexing & loosing arc. I am off road more than on so I try to make things as durable as I can.

Yes Kyb Is a brand of shock. I like the gas adjust but opinions vary. The stock shocks limit suspension travel & I gained more flex by going to a longer shock. this is only true of the rear. the front being IFS is what it is & there is little to be done. greater rear flex and the soon to come locker will help overcome the front end limitations.

Still don't see running the rubicon in the durango though.

 

What exactly are bump stops?
Also, my shocks need replaced soon. During the summer I plan on installing the t/s lift and 33s. What shocks would you recommend? My D is used 99% of the time on road. The only time I go off is when i feel like being stupid =P
Would you recommend the bump stops for my application?
Any other advice you might give me???

 

the bump stops are rubber pieces on the a-arms to stop any metal to metal contact when you bottom out the shock, if you are using it as an on road daily driver you do not need to do anything with them (he upgraded his for off-roading) you should be fine with any shocks, i would recommend monroe reflex shocks for price/quality for on-road driving, iv got them in mine and they are a great on-road shock