1st Gen Durango 1998 - 2003 Durango's

Heatercore Bypass Project

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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 11:29 PM
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Default Heatercore Bypass Project

Alright, I am reposting this in the correct forum now! Dunno how I posted a message in the top durango forum! Must have been too tired that day. Here is my post again;

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Alright, I will soon get my heater core replaced. In the future, I don't want this core to last only a few years and put me back to square one again and spend a crap load of labor to pull out another bad core.

I have bought a vacuum operated heater core contol valve. The valve is in the normally closed position.

Now is the part where I desparately need your help. I am looking for a electrically operated vacuum switch so when i turn the switch on, it will let the vacuum go to the heater control valve to open it when I need heat. I cannot find this simple type of switch on the internet anywhere. I remember there was a electical operated vacuum switch that was on my 85 toyota truck to temporary raise the rpm on my 22re when the a/c is engaged. cannot find that switch either.

Thanks for the assist.

Once I find this electrically operated vacuum switch, I will take pics and document this project for you guys to use.

This project will be used to prolong the life of my heater core. Also, during the summer when heat is not required, it should GREATLY improve your A/C cooling as the blend door won't get heated up from the heater core and pass that hot temps to the A/C side.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2010 | 12:39 AM
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would something like this work for you???
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-VAC...item3ca97cfb6a
 
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Old Jan 24, 2010 | 05:12 AM
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I dont understand how this mod will afect the life span of the heater core but there are also lots of cable operated versions that would be less complicated to install, just need the valve and a choke cable kit.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2010 | 11:06 AM
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i think the is trying to keep the interior as stock as possible and to cut as small an opening to mount the control in the dash as possible
 
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Old Jan 24, 2010 | 07:19 PM
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Correct Shrp! I want to keep things OEM as much as possible. It would be much more trouble for me to install the cable choke beneath the dash and very unconvinent and problaby dangerous for me to go down there to pull or push the choke cable while driving when I need or do not need heat.

It would be much easier to install a tiny luminated push button switch to activate the vacuum control switch to turn on the vacuum controlled heater control valve.

The heater core would last much longer if the HOT coolant is not continuosly flowing thru the core year round. Another plus to blocking the HOT coolant to the core when you do not need heating will increase your A/C cooling power during the summer season.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2010 | 08:31 PM
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did you check the e-bay link i posted up? i know its for two different units, but it should still work and its really not all that expensive
 
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Old Jan 24, 2010 | 11:38 PM
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I think it should work, but I would need to find the harness plug to fit it. Wished it was a universal spaded type connection! Would make electrical installation much easier!

I am still searching in hopes of finding one with easy wiring connections to it without some dedicated harness plug.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2010 | 11:45 PM
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Seems to me if you cut the plastic off the harness you can use a small size female spade to make the connection. And a sheet metal screw will easily cut through the metal tab for mounting. Just my $0.02.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2010 | 11:57 PM
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Okay, I found a couple that may work from Ebay.

From porsche:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PORSC...item35a656c9d9

From GM:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Stand...item35a6093183

Both are in the $18-$19 range.

I am not sure if the GM EGR functions like the A/C control valve from the Porsche. If so, I would problaby get the GM part as it is new I think and the porsche is used.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2010 | 12:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Dans01Durango
Seems to me if you cut the plastic off the harness you can use a small size female spade to make the connection. And a sheet metal screw will easily cut through the metal tab for mounting. Just my $0.02.
That could take some precision work and time which I don't want to spend too much on to retrofit a valve. Plus, I don't want to damage it if I screw up! I would rather spend the extra money to get a valve where I don't have to cut or alter it. I like the valve assembly to last for quite a while and also not let the external elements prematurely wear it out.
 
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