Hydra....as always, you are right on. The guy who is building my engine apparently used to build some high performance Dodge engines and he is very familiar with this motor He said that the problem, just as you described, is a result from there being a "peak" in that particular area between the valves that cracks. He said that they grind that area down a wee bit and smooth it out so it doesn't "arc" or something to that effect, so the heat isn't concentrated in that specific area anymore. It makes sense when he explains it, so we'll see what happens. Thanks for the info on the radiator. Since I am sparing no expense on this rebuild, I figured I would make sure to leave no stone unturned. Thanks again, and I will keep you all updated as we go along!

 

If you have to replace the pistons go with Flat Top pistons if you have the room for the heads.


Your motor is going to scream. There are stocker kits, and all sorts of mombo jombo out there but all in all, your going to like it!

 

I like what you have to say, Hydra, much more than what you had to say last time, which proved to be very true Anyway, I'll be on my way to the engine builders shop in just a few minutes, and I will talk with him about the flat-top pistons. I am very, very excited about what this engine is going to do when it's all said and done here shortly. I will be sure to keep everyone updated on the changes, but man, with CAI, pistons, cylinder head P&P, I am expecting it to be quite fun. Hopefully within the next month, I'll be freeing up the exhaust as well, once I find out what I need to do there, but I know there is alot of info on the forum for that one as well. Thanks again!

 

I could make that thing scream, but the fact of the matter is, I'm working with YOUR money and I want you to get the most out of it not to mention longevity. I can tell you how to build it and make you happy for a long time or make you happy for a short time. I am choosing the long time approach on this.

Flat top pistons = good life and better compression (OEM does a good enough job being dish pistons but I'm talking HORSE POWER baby!) although not needed, although IF you need to replace them I'd go flat top!

A motor rebuilt mean at least approximately 20 over bore (larger compression over OEM), now bring in P&P heads (MUCH Larger compression), and you have a screaming machine. Now if you can run regular fuel (without going premium fuel octane)? You might need a colder range plug like a 11 heat range.

Next if that isn't enough, then after the build you can use 1:7.1 lifters that are bolt on's that will give you even MORE compression but raise the octane requirements because of pre-detonation (ping).

Then you can go more bolt on like a M1 intake manifold and a www.fastman.com 52mm Throttle Body (which I would recommend after the build anyway) and Ram Air CIA.

What I'm trying to say here is, there is a lot of things you can do if you build the bottom end RIGHT! Bolt on's will work 10 fold if you have the right combo bilt into the engine first off. Bore the motor, P&P the heads, flat top pistons (if needed to replace the pistons), 52mm TB and an 3" exhaust will make that thing a COMPLETE different animal.

 

Hydra...I spoke with the engine builder and he said was planning on putting flat-top pistons in it already, along with a 30 over bore, so we're good there. You are right about the long life theory, so we're definately on the same page. I do not want to increase the compression so much that the higher octane is a necessity, as this is my daily driver (it's gonna be a much more fun daily driver I take it), so I'm trying to keep it slightly practical. I will admit though, this is getting funner and funner the more I get into it. I will have to add the TB's later, as I'm pushing the budget for now, but that will definately happen in the next few months, along with the exhaust. As far as the 3" goes, does that need to be a full exhaust, or what exactly are we talking about?

 

Sounds like you have a good engine builder!


When you do the exhaust, where the "Y" pipe is (located right before the CAT) you will replace this and go 3" pipe back including the CAT. However, If I were building it and money wasn't that big of deal I would go shorty Headers 2 1/2" to 3" "Y" then 3" all the way out MagnaFlow exhaust components. Also MagnaFlow makes a 2 1/2" X 2 1/2" X 3" "Y" pipe.

If you want to do it cheaper your could leave the OEM "Y" pipe and CAT and go up to 3" pipe from the CAT out.

 

Ok, time for an update...and a request for help as well. Engine is finally out and torn apart, block being prepped and all, but, unfortunately, it looks like I'm gonna need a new set of heads. My engine builder found a couple of slight cracks in the cylinder heads, and we have made the executive decision to not use the old ones, and look for some new ones instead. A friend of mine said there are a set of cast heads from Mopar/Dodge that you can get that actually outflow the Edelbrocks? Does anyone know where I can find these, or can offer some additional suggestions on a good place to get a set of heads? I'm quickly going overbudget on this thing, but if I'm gonna do the work, we might as well do it right. I am open to suggestions at this point, for sure. If there are any suggestions where I can find a reliable source for used/remanufactured heads as well, that could be of interest. But, I would definately like to know if these "special" heads do exist, and how many children I will need to sell in order to get them

 

Sorry to hear that but it is the usual findings.

You want to stay at 2.02 intake and 1.60 out just like the Edelbrock's. You should be able to get that out of the OEM heads and the OEM's are metal whereas the Edelbrock are aluminum. I've seen OEM castings out there for $600 so check Ebay. Also, stay away from junk yards as there is a 95% of cracks on heads from 5.2L and 5.9L because of the 195 degree constant heat. This is not so on the Edelbrock's because they are aluminum, however if they get hot they will warp causing a blown head gasket.

 

listen to hydra, hes been there and knows what he is talking about

 

Yes, I absolutely have all the faith in the world in the the advice given by Hydra...just about borderline "gospel" as I see it. Thanks for all the help..I just want my truck back on the road and want to drive this semi-built engine like you wouldn't believe. Every day is getting harder and harder to wait...need my fix...NOW!!!!

I am trying to find a good deal on a pair of reliable cylinder heads at this point. Everything I have looked at is already assembled/complete, but I just need a set that my builder can P&P and put the new parts we have on hand already. I'm gonna make a few calls today and see if these other places I have looked at online can provide what I need.