First of all im new to the dodge fourm and I found some very useful information in my first few minutes of searching. So ill just jump into the problem. My 4.7L locked up on me so i let it sit for about 2 years.. I finally got around to buying a used 4.7L with 70,000 miles I didnt change the fuel at first and tried to start it but then changed the gas and put new champion plugs at .040. the salvage yard told me that it was out of a 2000 durango but the intake was slightly different. Also the plate between the engine and transmission was different. The plate that came with this salvage yard had a smaller starter hole. I had the engine in and started to put the started on and wouldnt fit so I had to pull the motor away from the transmission to use the plate off of my engine. after all that I had it installed in a day with all of the sensors off of my engine onto the other engine. the crank sensor, water temp sensor, map sensor are brand new. The tps works great and the gauges show it has oil pressure I dont know if im missing anything but everything is hooked up correctly. The engine cranks over kind of hard and has backfired threw the intake and smelt like it was flooding out. The engine will fire at random an seems like it wants to try an start but wont make the effort to actually start. I checked the compression and the lowest cylinder was 150 psi and the highest was 185 psi. I also checked fuel pressure which was at 43 psi with the key on engine off and when cranking it has has 50 psi. The engine produces a strong spark on all coils/cylinders. My first question is why would the same year motor have a slighty different intake and plate between the engine and trans? And my second questions would have to be is Has anyone came across this problem before or am i missing something very simple? what would cause this no start condition?

Thanks in advance
Tom

 

There's a 32 tooth system and a 16 tooth system. In 2000 OEM finished using the older 4.7L then switched over to the newer version. Are you sure you switched out your old flywheel with the new one! Do a search for it here in the 1st gen.

What is the plate your referring to, bell housing?

 

hydra nailed it, probably has a different ring on it you CAN change it out from one engine to the other on your own

 

The plate im talking about is between the engine and the bell housing right where the two bolt together if that helps clear things up. I didnt switch the Flexplate/flywheel i didnt know that dodge had two different Engines in the same year, But i guess the intake and Plate between the engine and bell house should have gave it away. When you are talking about the 16 and 32 tooth system is that what the crank sensor reads? Someone told me that it sounded out of time and i didnt understand how it could be out of time when it had a crank sensor.

 

Well i did some more research on the fourm. I now understand that the cam and crank has a tone ring that the computer reads to tell what position the crank and cam are so the computer can fire the coils for the power stroke. My question now is that if I have a 32 system on my engine and the engine I bought has a 16 tooth system are both crank and cam tone rings 16 tooth or are they different? (For example a 16 tooth crank tone ring and a 16 tooth cam tone ring) Im asking that because its easier to pull the valve cover to count the tone ring on the cam. also is it possible for anyone to post some torque specs for the rods and mains for my 2000 4.7?

Thanks again for the information
Tom

 

Thanks for searching the information first!!!!!!


They must be the same and those numbers must be the same in the PCM. So if you have a 32 tooth PCM then you need to have a 32 tooth cam and 32 tooth crank tone ring.


The early build is the 16 tooth system and the later is 32 tooth systems (meaning the newest era build is the 32).

Here is the Rods.

CAUTION: Connecting Rod Bolts are Torque to
Yield Bolts and Must Not Be Reused. Always
replace the Rod Bolts whenever they are loosened
or removed.
(9) Lubricate rod bolts and bearing surfaces with
engine oil. Install connecting rod cap and bearing.
Tighten bolts to 27 N·m (20 ft. lbs.) plus 90°.


And here is the Mains:

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Arti...ysler_47l.aspx

 

I pulled the engine back out today and took the bottom end out of it and i found out that the engine I had was a 16 tooth system and the engine I bought was a 32 tooth system.I swithced my numbers around but they are still different. I changed both tone rings on the crank and cam. Im hoping that there are no other problems that come along during my build. Thanks for letting me know that the rod bolts are torque to yield bolts i would have had a major problem on my hands down the road.

 

Sounds like your on top of it. If you have any pictures please include them in this post for the next person.

 

I dont have any pictures right now ill try to take some and post them on here im on a time limit with this engine right now and after figuring out i needed to get new rod bolts I had to order them and they will be in tomorrow.

 

Hi, hydrashocker

i´m new here in this forum and live in germany.
It seems that i´ve the same problem as 20dodge00.
i bought my 2001; 4,7 durango last year with is an import of the US with a destroyed motor.
on ebay i found a 2007 aspen motor for less and bought it.
Now i have time to replace it .
I saw today that the original motor has the 16 teeth version and the new has the 32 teeth version.
What is easier?
to change both tone ring sensors or to change the computer and where is the computer located?
What do you prefer?
Thanks in advance

Dirk