01 Durango control arm bushings
Hi I have a 2001 Durango SLT 4.7L 4WD with 140,000 miles. The front bushings look worn i been looking for bushings to replace the old ones. I would like poly bushings to replace them with but cant find any, there rather for a 2wd Durango or for the 4wd Dakota. My question is can the bushing for the dakota work with the Durango. They seem to look the same in design. Thanks
Woof, yea, lets see @ about eighty an hour going roughly three per side, if bushings are all you are doing figure north of four hundred in labor. I don't have a labor guide so my time estimate is likely soft.
Or if you are inclined to pull the arms yourself a machine shop will be 30-60 to swap the bushings.
while it's apart is the time to do it all, especially if you pay to have the work done. once it's apart for bushings, it's apart. there should be little extra charge to swap ball joints, bearings or axles.
Don't forget to budget an alignment, it'll need one.
Or if you are inclined to pull the arms yourself a machine shop will be 30-60 to swap the bushings.
while it's apart is the time to do it all, especially if you pay to have the work done. once it's apart for bushings, it's apart. there should be little extra charge to swap ball joints, bearings or axles.
Don't forget to budget an alignment, it'll need one.
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look at doing it yourself. once the torsion bars are unloaded it's not to tricky. not as easy as say a Honda but with no loaded spring waiting to jump into your chest it'll be a lot less stressful & hopefully a lot less painful than my spring to the chest first time doing it.
Only part that really takes a trick is eyeballing the alignment enough to get it to the shop.
Use jack-stands!!!! start early & even as a first timer should be no more than half a day apart & half a day back together. plus machine shop time.
Before you start, if you elect to do it yourself, measure the ride height & make note of it. wheel well lip to center of hub is best but to the ground at the pinch welds works too. that way you don't have to try & keep track of how many turns on the t-bar bolt.
Only part that really takes a trick is eyeballing the alignment enough to get it to the shop.
Use jack-stands!!!! start early & even as a first timer should be no more than half a day apart & half a day back together. plus machine shop time.
Before you start, if you elect to do it yourself, measure the ride height & make note of it. wheel well lip to center of hub is best but to the ground at the pinch welds works too. that way you don't have to try & keep track of how many turns on the t-bar bolt.
I thought about doing it myself maybe over the summer, but a few parts look kind of tricky in the process listed in the repair manual. Such as separating the upper and lower balljoint from the steering knuckle, also the repair manual says to remove the driveaxle. Idk, some parts look doable but then I am not sure I would want to mess with the others, and possibly mess it up. I wonder if anyone has a write up on this.
Removal of the ball joints aren't to hard to removal. My process is remove the nut and hit hub with a hammer till ball joint seperates from hub . My other question is torsion bars. I've been looking at the tool for them costing around $100.00, is there any other way to unload them with out buying the tool. Never messed with these before....



