1st Gen Durango 1998 - 2003 Durango's

2001 Durango 4.7L 4x4 overheat

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Old May 30, 2010 | 12:26 AM
  #11  
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Just replaced the coolant temp sensor (had to wait for the engine to cool enough). Temperatures are the same as before but the gauge is now just barely left of center instead of being at 3/4 and the e-fan is now not coming on as early. The old sensor looked like it had a pink/teal colored powder coating on it. Will test it again tomorrow in the middle of the day so the outside temp is much hotter to verify.
 
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Old May 30, 2010 | 01:35 AM
  #12  
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ok well i read threw again to see what has been done. If u have checked the hoses, u replaced the sensor, you replaced the thermostat, the fan is working. only 2 things left really..

1. poor flow the radiator or the front of the radiator is clogged with bugs ext.. to allow enough air to flow threw.

I know u said u have had it back flushed, sometimes this is not really enough if it is really corroded inside. the best method is to replace the radiator, or remove it an take it to a radiator shop an have them clean it for about 50-70 an reinstall.

2. The pump is failing
 
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Old May 30, 2010 | 02:29 AM
  #13  
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What should the temp read at the thermostat housing? What should it read at the upper hose housing? Should I be measuring it on the hose or at the metal housings? Lastly where should the needle be registering on the front of the gauge face at normal running temperature?
 
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Old May 30, 2010 | 11:01 PM
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the needle on the dashboard should be at about the middle, maybe a little bit to the cold side (left side), if you have a 190* t-stat once it is open i would expect the temp at that point to be btwn 190-200 maybe 205 on the high end (i believe i am recalling the system set up correctly, it goes engine>stat>radiator>repeat (flow direction) and should of course be cooler after the radiator, you can also check the entrance and exit temps of the radiator to make sure that it is cooling properly
 
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Old May 31, 2010 | 02:54 PM
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Take it for a ride and see if it repeats the overheating situation and take your radiant thermometer to confirm.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2010 | 09:42 AM
  #16  
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I just wanted to leave an update. I replaced the fan clutch and that made a very big difference. The clutch had resistance when I would spin it, but after taking it off and twisting the input shaft a few times it would become completely loose and spin freely. The new clutch kept resistance no matter how many times I twisted it. The AC gets very cold and for the most part the temp gauge is just left of center or directly at the half way point (covers the thermometer stick graphic on the gauge) while AC is on. It did climb a little above that once so I'm sure that I will just go ahead and replace the water pump and radiator to be safe.

Thanks everyone for your advice.
 

Last edited by bridog45040; Jun 1, 2010 at 09:48 AM.
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Old Jun 21, 2010 | 02:24 AM
  #17  
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I've purchased a new radiator from AZ. After looking on the board here, I can't get a clear answer to whether or not the A/C needs to be recovered and the condenser needs to be removed or I can just remove the core support and take the radiator out from the top after disconnection and avoid messing with the A/C system. Anyone have personal experience and could advise offer tips? I've removed radiators on older GM and Ford vehicles but am not equipped to recover and pull vacuum on the A/C system. Also, I read somewhere that one of the transmission cooler lines has some sort of special connector on it. I couldn't see any special connector on mine. Any idea what this could be?
 
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Old Jun 21, 2010 | 08:16 AM
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I am not sure of your mileage but if you have no idea of last time it was replaced, then while the rediator is out and it is fairly accessible I would recommend r/r the pump while you are at it. It will be fairly cheap insurance, and should be pretty accessible while radiator is out. I have had good luck and would recommend BOSCH water pumps and a GoodYear Gatorback serpentine belt.

And my standard disclaimer.....I strongly recommend AGAINST PepBoys.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2010 | 10:16 AM
  #19  
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Do you know whether or not the A/C needs to be recovered and the condenser needs to be removed or can I just remove the core support and take the radiator out from the top after disconnection and avoid messing with the A/C system?
 
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Old Jun 21, 2010 | 03:04 PM
  #20  
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you can remove the coolant rad without removing the AC condenser.

have a look at this post

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...blem-newb.html


lawl reviving posts time!
 
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