DURANGED408 Thanks man, i just posted a picture of my Cold air intake that i took with my 2 megapixel camara phone so it might not be the best quality but you still get a good idea of how it looks. Alright man I'll pass on the tranny flush and when you say "fluid/filter change" what do you mean? Sorry i'm not to good with cars yet still trying to learn.

 

+3, 4,5 or whatever it is but DO NOT GET THE FLUSH. Fluid/filter change is just that. Drop the pan, drain fluid, change the filters, replace pan.

I am going to list the parts you need first, so you are not stuck.


1. Approx 5-8 quarts of ATF+4 Dealer is preferred but be sure you specify ATF+4 not 3 not 3.5 and also MOPAR There are Chrysler engineering department approved substites one of which is Valvoline ATF+4 and can usually be found in O'Reillys and NAPA
Also make sure that however many bottles you purchase, check the date stamp/lot/batch number, make sure the are all the same. I know 8 quarts is a lot but I would rather have you get a bit extra that you can return instead of coming up short and this potentially your only vehicle.

2. Filter kit, It should have the flat filter, and a plastic o-ring that goes on top of the stack part of the filter, you also want to make sure the old o-ring comes out of the stack.

3. Secondary filter, This is kind of obscure, so far the only place I have been able to find it is the Dealer, which is o.k because the next item is recommended from dealer and
fairly reasonable. The secondary filter is round and yes screws in like an oil filter. MOPAR RTV sealant it is the black rtv sealant to be used on the pan in place of the gasket that comes with the filter. Concensous of opinion is this RTV works much better but you have to work quick make sure all the filters are removed and replaced, areas is clean fluid is drained. Once RTV is applied to the pan mating surface you have probaly about 10-15 minutes at most before rtv starts setting up.

A simple fluid and filter change should work, with the 4.7 at least if done on your own can be a bit messy. They dont have a drain plug on the transmission pan, you need a wide pan that filters into a regular transmission pan. The pan comes off old school, one bolt at a time, leaving a couple of corner bolts loosely installed till most of the fluid drains. Once the pan is drained, remove the final two bolts, remove magnet and check for excessive metal shavings, clean magnet, and pan both inside and outside. Here is where it gets complicated. Re insert magnet in the pan.

Take this opportunity to inspect the pan, mine had surface rust on the outside and I replaced it.

There are two filters, one usually comes with the filter kit and includes a rubber gasket and a flat semi diamond shaped filter. Set gasket aside, if you follow most of the advice on here, you probably wont need it. USE the RTV as specified in step 3.
Make sure pan bolts are torqued to specs of serfice manual, do not overtorque


Once the fluid drains magnet in pan, wipe away any excess fluid re-install pan after pan is installed I woulod wait about 15-30 minutes before adding fluid to allow rtv to cure/harden/set up what ever you want to call it. A good time to inspect the underside of the vehicle, exhaust system. ball joints (if you have front lifted), overall general visual inspection of vehicle, leaks, suspension, corrosion etc..... That pesky evap canister and lines that get dry rotted occasionally etc...


Using a funnel, slowly add ATF+4 one quart at at time. Fill to service manual specs then do system check. warm fluid, run gear through each of the ranges, ending up in neutral with parking brake on take reading. A quick run around the block should work to get the fluid cycled allowing to shift through ranges. Don't get too crazy on the shifting moderate pressure then when you get back check fluid. Top off as necessary to ensure proper servicing. If you have extra ATF+4 DO NOT OPEN most places wont take back with tamper seal cracked, if you cracked the seal you have a spare bottle for your garage shelf. Also during this time check for leaks under vehicle. a few drops may be normal during servicing, either drips from the funnel or pan and they should burn off fairly quickly once the engine gets warm enough.


Hope this helps If you learn nothing of this post remember ATF+4 MOPAR and Valvoline are the only two ones I know of right off the bat.

 

To service the transmission you should ALWAYS drop the pan, replace the filter/filters, adjust if adjustable, then refill with ATF+4 fluid only (Usually takes at least 6-8 qt's). The gasket should re re-useable as OEM was rubber gaskets. Just wipe down and ludricate the gasket with a little grease and reinstall.

The 4.7L transmission is a 45RFE and requires no adjusting. The other transmissions require adjustments.

 

Lright guy's I'll see what i can do about that. Is it even neccessary to have a tranny flush? Also buying all these things how much would you say it would run me? maybe like 20 bucks for the 6-8 quarts, and maybe another 10-15 bucks for the filters and stuff?

Besides this stuff any ideas how i can make my truck louder for cheap? I know shorty headers will help but thats like 600 bucks with installation. Since i cant install them. Also any other ideas? I know this thread was made for my cold air intake.

Here's a before and after exhaust vid of my cold air intake. Let me know if you think it made any change to the exhaust sound. i've been told by a few that it might help a little bit.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZUgSW3Sy5zA

 

do not flush the transmission, just change the fluid in the pan (really it is a partial fluid change) and ATF +4 is expensive stuff (i want to say $5 a quart, but im really not sure) but you MUST USE IT or you will find alot of problems popping up.

and you can put an aftermarket exhuast on if you want, but as i said above, expect to see mileage drop

 

shrpshtr325 Alright man i'll change the fluid in the pan and see how that works out.

Also i do have a flowmaster super 44 muffler on right now. Its single in single out. I originally started out with the intention to do to the exhaust.

But being i "JUST" graduated high school last saturday and that i work part time at minimum wage at a hardware store Money is sometimes tough to come up with.

I posted a video a few posts back of my exhaust as a before/after of the cold air intake to see if anyone notices a difference. I don't. Also didnt expect to.

Also I checked out the price of the copper core plugs that'll run me about $17.05 so i'll buy those friday since i dont think thats askin much for plugs. I'll change those out and see if they help any.

Thanks for the advice its much appreciated everyone!

 

Flushing the transmission only forces debris through the system that the filter is supposed to keep from going in the system. Plain and simple, DON'T DO IT!


Just pull the pan and make a mess and replace the filters and the fluid.

 

I understand about just graduating, I graduated and literally a week later I was on a plane to Great Lakes Illinois, Naval Training Center......The year was 1988. The D is fun, best advice I can offer is to ask for D related items in gift cards that way you can get your own items, and you have only your own guilt if you get the wrong item. Welcome to the forum and as Hydra says, dont flush. He may have a RAM now but his Durango experience in previous lives speaks volumes.

Also as with most projects do not jump in without reading the manuals, if you are unsure get help, father, brother friend, uncle. etc....

 

Hydrashocker and Magic84 thanks for the advice yeah i'll talk to my dad he worked as a mechanic for a little while so he knows most of the basics, likes i asked him about a 180 t stat and he said you dont wanna change it in a rango becuase its tough to find the proper fitting or something about it. Also the video posted above if you watch the second half you will see a bottle that says atf on it lol! Thats the transmission fluid i want right?

 

i cant read what it says on the bottle, but if needs to be ATF +4, NOT 3, not plain ATF, ONLY ATF +4