Also to get the speakers i need to remvoe the door panel but do i need to disconnect the door lock and indow switches as well? or will i be fine removing them with those cables still attached? Never taken the door off my rango to see how it works yet!

 

the door panel is easy to get off, 3 or 4 screws along the bottom and one behind the handle iirc, and then the window controls get unplugged (the panel pops right off, no screws) then lift up, before pulling the panel away you need to pop the rod for the door latch mechanism off, then the door is free, really easy

and the liquid electrical tape is basically the same as rubber cement, might be just a little bit thinner, and holds pretty well as long as you dont abuse it

 

Alright man! I wish i could do it this weekend! But i'm workin all weekend! 4-9 tonight 11-7 saturday and 11-6 on sunday! How long does it ake for the rubber cement/liquid electrical tape to dry? i might have to break it down and do maybe 2 dorrs one night and the others the next night!

Also is there a limit i should be aware about after using the speakers when they are fixed using one of the compounds? i mean will i be safe cranking it up with some bass?

 

I used the liquid electrical tape on one speaker. It holds very strong, easy to apply and just follow directions on bottle for drying time. Sadly though the speaker still sounded bad and I figured it was just blown . I ended up putting all 4 door speakers.

They really are easy to change. Mine had 2 screws at the bottom, 1 behind the handle and one hidden behind the "Infinity " insignia. Just pop it out carefully as it will break off at the tab pretty easy. The window/mirror switch panel pops out and then disconnect the wiring harness. Finally, pull the door panel up and slightly away from the door and thenn reach over the top and behind it to un-snap the door lock and door latch rods.

Also have to disconnect the wire to the tweeter. When you are putting the door panel back on , I found it easier to start by hooking the bottom tabs in first to help guide the rest. Then just push in and down and check the 2 bottom screw holes to see if they are lined up. Also make sure the panel is butt up against the door. Don't forget to hook up the door lock and latch rods before you do this.

If you end up replacing the speakers, I'd go with Crutchfield. They send you everything you need. Any spacers, adapters and a wiring harness adapter so you don't have to splice.

I bought the Polk db651. They sound very good but they are 4 ohm speakers so they don't have the volume the stock 2 ohm had. I can still crank it loud but there is a difference.

My local Frys ad today has them on sale for $ 59.00 a set. But you would possibly need an adapter to mount them in the stock plastic mounts. And you would have to cut your current wires and crimp on new terminals. That's why I went with Crutchfield.

I didn't have any luck finding 2 ohm speakers at the time.

You'll see the stock speakers are snapped into the plastic holder with 3 metal tabs and there is some adhesive on the back so it takes a little muscle to tear them apart. At least mine did.

A buddy of mine took his old speakers and cut off the metal tabs that hold them into the palstic adapter and used them to hold his new speakers in the old adapter. He used a dremel.

 

Shrpshtr325, Well i dont wanna get a speaker with lesser quality you know? i mean they've been blown for a while. At leasy a year or so you know? and i havent really been using the radio/cd player/speakers to much any more. I just figured before i put more money in on performance and stuff i should take care of the actual things in need of replacing.

Besides a few dents and a crack i have the only mechanical problems i have are these

Speakers
fuel pump
blower/heater resistor

I need to replace those three things and my car will be fully functional lol

Sadly enough those are the three most noticable problems.

speakers for music
fuel pump when starting the car
and the resisitor because now my a/c only works on max power not medium or low

LOL kinda sucks!

 

Liquid electrical tape sounds expensive. Never heard of it in person, only online. Just use rubber cement. Works, cheap. easy.

Here are door removal instructions.

IndyDurango

 

Right! Thanks MONGODV8 for the instructions and thanks guys for the idea. I'm gonna get some rubber cement since i work at a hardware store i'll just pick it up at work sometime. Any idea how well the speakers will work after using rubber cement

 

Hey guys, i picked up some alpine midbass's 6 1/2 rounds the alpine sps600's for 30 a pair in good condition.

Was wondering how mounting will go as far as how the old ones were mounted and how these alpine screw holes will line up?

Will i need to do any drilling or anything to make them fit?

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...e-SPS-600.html

those are the speakers. as you can see they have the 4 cornered mounts there. How are the stock ones mounted? Any help would be great!

 

My speakers in my Durango are held in with 3 screws. 1 at the top and 2 on the bottom. They're after market speakers but it looks like they went into the stock location perfect.

 

i believe that is correct 1 on top 2 near the bottom, if they are regular depth speakers you will need to reuse the black sleeve/spacer that the stock speakers are in iirc.