I am not responsible for any mishaps while you are wrenching, knuckle busting, throwing tools, kicking vehicles, stomping, whining, drinking, or possession of you or your rig by any entity....... Always consult a manual before attempting any wrenching and I advise you to stay within your skill set. If you’re expanding your skills, work on the easy stuff 1st to gain skills and the necessary scars on the hands to fall into the "working man/woman" category.

fairly straightforward, how to replace the hoses on the charcoal canister

a common solution to the following CEL codes:
NOTE that this is NOT the only cause of these lights, and other solutions include a new gas cap, and replacing some evap hoses which run under the hood, in fact directly over the exhaust manifolds on the older 5.x series engines.

so if you have this CEL code check the hoses underneath the truck, about even with the driver seat on the drivers side of the vehicle,





the piece with a clamp from the factory was the ONLY pictured connection that did NOT have a crack in it, hence all the lines needed to be replaced









as you can see, not good for sealing the gasoline fumes in

but a simple solution there is, a box of 9/16-1.25 inch hose clamps and 3 feet of 5/8" ID fuel rated hose, and a foot of 1/2" ID fuel rated hose.
DISCLAIMER these are the hose sizes that I used, yours MAY BE DIFFERENT, BE SURE TO CHECK AS I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE IF YOU BUY THE WRONG SIZE OR LENGTH

dont be too worried by the fact that the one hose has two different sizes on each end, or that one is formed, for the 'formed' piece you can flex the hose around everything just fine, and tuck it out of the way, i used zip ties to make sure it wouldnt move, but the did not seem to be necessary.

so basically you just cut the hoses down to the appropriate length, and put them onto the barbed ends (i put dish soap on the barbs to make the hoses slide on easier). I also recommend putting a hose clamp on each connection which does not already have one as this will ensure that the hoses stay on the connection (probably not necessary, but i felt it was worth the time to put them on)

finished pictures



(you can see the new hose clamps in all of the above pictures where i had to put new hose on)

the only issue you MAY have is with the section that has two different sizes on each end, i simply took a piece of hose i had that was the correct ID for the smaller barb, and trimmed the outside of it to fit inside the hose with the correct ID for the larger barb that it had to go on, using some dish soap as a lubricant it went right on and has given me 0 problems. YMMV but that was my solution. (you could ALSO tighten the hose clam down on the larger size hose until it holds on the smaller barb)

I recommend only removing one hose at a time so that you dont mix up where they go back on as i am sure that the system will NOT be too happy if you connect the hoses in the wrong order, or to different points than they should be attached to.

Total cost for this project was $16.25

Any questions feel free to ask,

Thanks,
-Bill

 

To add to this.Also look at the LDP pump and purge solenoid hose's too.

 

are those the ones under the hood? or the solenoid that is underneath next to the charcoal canister? (the one next to the canister i did replace the hoses on)(the second picture, the piece that sits above the gaurd

 

Nice write up!

 

i had this same issue i just put my Durango up on some ramps and found i had one cracked hose comeing from the tank going into the charcoal canister very simple fix and no engine light any more =D

 

great write up, when i went thru dmv i failed theres test(S) as i had one small evap leak and an large evap leak, well iv done the following, bought an mopar gas cap, and i found two large cracked lines under the hood and cut off the cracked parts but it didnt fix the cel, then earlier i checked all the charcoal canister lines and found one large crack, cut off the end and inspected the others as well as i could and only found small cracks which i went over them with duct tape (haha) as i dont belive they were all the way thru but i figured it wouldnt hurt. Well i ran the engine for an minute and it didnt fix the light, any help?

so basically, went thru dmv and had small/large evap leak, iv installed NEW gas cap, found cracked evap lines and cut off where the cracks were and reattached, but still cel. HELP!

 

What code is it showing? Did you reset the cel and drive it for at least 30 miles before you went back to dmv.
PS great write up. Shrpshtr

 

the light wont go off on its own right away, it will take 50-100 miles or more to turn off on its own (so many cold-warm cycles on the engine for this code)

your best bet is to reset the code yourself

do this by
1)take off the battery negative terminal
2)hold the key to start for 30 seconds
3) reconnect the battery cable
4) start the truck and let the idle settle (10-15 seconds or so is probably enough)
5) shut truck off
6) repeat 4 and 5 3 times total (this helps the computer re-learn all the sensor outputs, is not really necessary, just speeds things up)
7) start truck and take it for a drive

you have just reset your PCM and hopefully the code doesnt come back on


and thanks dolittle and luxury, its something we need more of, i take pictures of most things i do to the truck now so i can make a write up, and it helps to put things back together if you have a picture to follow

 

Thanks for the writeup Shrpshtr! The photos are a big help. I am going fix it this weekend

 

Rise of the dead thread!!!

Thanks for this thread shrpshtr325. I've actually replaced the evap canister due to a hosel breaking off. I want to clear the code, but I'm afraid it will de-program my FOB. Last time I disconnected the battery to replace it, my FOB stopped working. I just paid 50 bucks to get it programmed, and I'd hate to have to do that again.