Intermittent ignition, Brakes seizing...
Long story short...or at least condensed...
Part 1...I own a '99 Durango 4x4 5.2L, 84k actual miles. I bought it new and have had NO problems with it until here recently. Yesterday, my son drove it to school (3 miles) without a problem. One hour from the time he left the driveway, my wife and I went to pick it up and drop off his 70 cutlass. Upon arrival, the engine turned over strongly, but failed to start (for the first time in 11 years). We left it there and went back to pick him up after school and upon trying it again, it started and ran fine all the way home. When we got home, the engine was turned off and tried again 5 minutes later...once again it wouldn't start. Frustrated, I went in the house and cooled off for close to 30 minutes, came back out and it started like there was no problem in the world. Any ideas?
Part 2...After taking the Durango out to run errands under normal operation, (prior to the issue above), a few miles from home (THANK GOD), it seemed to have lost all of it's power. The gas pedal had to be literally almost on the floor to keep it above 30 miles per hour. Upon arrival home (and on the way there, of course) I smelled brake pads and the front rotors were clicking and popping horribly from the built up heat. I then realized the brake pads had not broke contact with the rotors for 2 miles. It sat over night and was allowed to cool off and everything was fine the following morning. Day two? Same scenario, same outcome. It rested over night and no problem the following day. The pads were changed (the rotors still looked good) and the problem didn't happen again for close to a month. Then out of the blue a week ago...here it is back. Anyone heard of either of these before? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Troy
Part 1...I own a '99 Durango 4x4 5.2L, 84k actual miles. I bought it new and have had NO problems with it until here recently. Yesterday, my son drove it to school (3 miles) without a problem. One hour from the time he left the driveway, my wife and I went to pick it up and drop off his 70 cutlass. Upon arrival, the engine turned over strongly, but failed to start (for the first time in 11 years). We left it there and went back to pick him up after school and upon trying it again, it started and ran fine all the way home. When we got home, the engine was turned off and tried again 5 minutes later...once again it wouldn't start. Frustrated, I went in the house and cooled off for close to 30 minutes, came back out and it started like there was no problem in the world. Any ideas?
Part 2...After taking the Durango out to run errands under normal operation, (prior to the issue above), a few miles from home (THANK GOD), it seemed to have lost all of it's power. The gas pedal had to be literally almost on the floor to keep it above 30 miles per hour. Upon arrival home (and on the way there, of course) I smelled brake pads and the front rotors were clicking and popping horribly from the built up heat. I then realized the brake pads had not broke contact with the rotors for 2 miles. It sat over night and was allowed to cool off and everything was fine the following morning. Day two? Same scenario, same outcome. It rested over night and no problem the following day. The pads were changed (the rotors still looked good) and the problem didn't happen again for close to a month. Then out of the blue a week ago...here it is back. Anyone heard of either of these before? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Troy
Last edited by ToBIGWillie; Aug 27, 2010 at 11:10 AM.
the brakes sticking and dragging could be one of a few things
1. sticky brake piston (dirt can get in there and cause it to stick, or when it was pushed in it could have gone in unevenly and is now sticking bc of it)
2. bad brake hoses (they rot from the inside out and tend to go such that they will allow pressure to go on when you push the pedal, but not release quickly when you let go of it (they will tend to bleed off over time)
3. rusty rails where the pads ride on (slide in/out to apply/release) 15 minuts and a hammer should take care of the rust problem if it is present (should not be happening unless the truck sits for an extended period of time)
i have personally dealt with 2 and 3 here, the brake lines got replaced and all has been well since. but my truck still sits for long periods of time while i am away at school since my parents both have their own vehicles to drive it doesnt get used much
1. sticky brake piston (dirt can get in there and cause it to stick, or when it was pushed in it could have gone in unevenly and is now sticking bc of it)
2. bad brake hoses (they rot from the inside out and tend to go such that they will allow pressure to go on when you push the pedal, but not release quickly when you let go of it (they will tend to bleed off over time)
3. rusty rails where the pads ride on (slide in/out to apply/release) 15 minuts and a hammer should take care of the rust problem if it is present (should not be happening unless the truck sits for an extended period of time)
i have personally dealt with 2 and 3 here, the brake lines got replaced and all has been well since. but my truck still sits for long periods of time while i am away at school since my parents both have their own vehicles to drive it doesnt get used much
Now onto the motor not starting issue. It could be a Crank Shaft Sensor.
I totally agree with Sharps statement however on the rails the pads ride on they become divoted and rusty. You are supposed to clean off the rust and smooth the divots and apply brake grease to this area so the pads can slide as well as apply grease to the slide bolts to lubricate the moving parts.
almost sounds like the no start is a possible fuel pump. hard to tell with out a fuel pressure test, but with a lack of power it makes sense. a clogged cat is usally the only other loss of power with varying conditions if i explaining my self well
Trending Topics
Thanks guys. I appreciate the suggestions. I wound up taking it to a mechanic who chased the intermittent "gremlins" all around the thing and charged me $150 to tell me they couldn't find anything at the time. Story of my life. Come to find out it has "a small leak between the torque converter and transmission" ($750...I have YET to see any fluids in my driveway. Needs "all the ball joints replaced" ($700...and I havent even addressed the problems I took it in for). They said it might be the crank and cam sensors ($350) but they're not sure since it didn't act up once they looked at it. Whooda thunkit? It's a third vehicle so Ima check the things you suggested when I get the time. But then again, it may be time to cut my losses considering the age. It has been well taken care of and babied (believe it or not) and I hate to get rid of it...but sometimes u can sink more into a car for repairs that the vehicle is worth, ya know?
Thanks again, fellas.
Thanks again, fellas.
its always worth fixing if you can find a good mech or do it yourself you'll never make as many repairs as a years worth of car payments,hopefully
Last edited by fpsweet; Aug 31, 2010 at 04:01 PM.










