David,

I did not check engine codes. Had no lights to look at. The only time I was able to start was by a struggling jump start. So, assuming a bad nss cable, why should I want to reset engine codes?

 

no need to reset the codes, idk what he was thinking

 

The grounding lug is the other side of the main ground cable (not the terminal side). Find the bolt that grounds the ground side cable to the main ground on the block and clean the lug and block surface and re-bolt. This way you insure the ground. Next check the positive side and ensure the PDC conection and starter conection.

Swap the starter relay with one of the samr number and try that next.

Make sure you reset the PCM every time you mess with things:

Quote:

To reset your engine codes:
Remove the negative terminal of your battery (10mm wrench).
Turn your ignition key to START and hold it there for about 15 seconds.
Turn your ignition key to OFF and remove it.
Connect the negative terminal of your battery.
Start but do not hit the throttle. Idle for about 10/15 seconds then turn off.
Restart the truck and drive as usual. It will take at least 12 starts and 48 miles to fully retune the computer. Hard Codes leave a shaddow for 40 full cold starts.

 

Hydrashocker, I'm confused. You advised me to reset the PCM, SHRPSHTR325 said no need to reset the codes. Were you both talking about resetting PCM codes?

If I do the PCM reset thing, which seems easy enough, and then try to crank and get nothing, what should I make of that?

Can I replace the 12 volt 700 cca Durango battery with a 12 volt 525 cca battery from a Dodge Caliber (that starts the Caliber with no trouble) in order to test whether the Durango battery is good or bad? When I first had the problem, I went to a battery shop to see what they could do, and a guy gave me a green loaner battery so I could try to start the Durango. I used the loaner battery to try to jumpstart the car through the 700 cca Durango battery and it didn't work. But he didn't tell me that it might not crank hot enough nor did he advise me to replace the 700 cca battery with the loaner. It would be most convenient if I could swap the Durango and Caliber batteries and try to start the Durango as a way to test whether the 700 cca battery is good or bad. As I reported earlier, it showed 728 cca when I had it checked at a battery shop, but I guess it could still have a bad cell. Is that right?

Thanks,

 

It will work,Just for testing.By any chance do you have a 12 volt test light? If you do, here what i want you to do.Ck the bat plus at the battery and then ck the bat plus at the starter and have someone try to crank the engine. The test light should stay bright when cranking.But if the cable has any acid inside the harness,it will cause the battery voltage to drop.

 

mastertech,

I have no 12 volt test light, but I will buy one at first opportunity, maybe tomorrow if I can find a store open.

i looked for a picture of a 12 volt test light and found an instrument with a sharp tip (probe) and a cord that looks like it clips onto or plugs into something.

Just to be clear, I'm pretty sure (but not exactly sure) what you mean by "ck the bat plus". I asume you mean "touch the probe to the positive battery terminal to test the battery (by getting a bright light)"...and then "touch the probe to a positive terminal on the starter to test get a bright light that should stay bright when the car is cranked if the harness is OK but would go dim or at least less bright if the harness is bad".

I guess that would be a good test if something happened (some cranking, maybe) when I had someone turn the key. Nothing happened last time I did that myself. Maybe I'll have better luck when I swap batteries.

Should I assume the problem is simply in the battery if swapping batteries gives me a start? Or should I get a 12 volt test light and test for a bad harness anyway?

On the other hand, suppose I swap batteries and still get nothing when I turn the start key (no idiot lights, no cranking, etc.). Should I still do the light test?

If I went ahead with the light test and got a bright light when I probed the + battery terminal and then probed the + starter terminal and got a dimmer light when the starter cranked, I guess I should replace the harness.

Then, having replaced the defective harness, I would put the old battery back in and see if the car started.

 

my comment about no need to reset the codes is simple, until you do any work on the system you dont need to reset the codes, after you change sensors (you should disconnect the battery to change sensors or work on electrical anyway) you should so that the computer can learn the new parameters

 

Guys,

I tried the little battery (525 cca) to start the car and it started.

I reset the PCM per instructions.

I replaced the little battery with the big battery and started the car. It started. I idled the car for 15 seconds and shut it down.

Should I still get the 12 volt test light and check the starter harness? I have no idea what fixed this sucker, or if the problem still exists.

 

if that all it took to fix the problem i would say you probably had corrosion on the battery terminal(s) and reseating the connectors knocked it off and gave you a better connection

 

I did clean the battery terminals and cable ends and flex the cables and lift the battery out of its tray and put it back, but I first cleaned the battery and cable ends (and dosed them with baking soda) and put the battery back in the car and tried to start the car a couple of days ago and got nothing. I finally got something last night after successfully starting the car with the small battery.

Gremlins I guess. It would be nice to track them down.

Given the big battery tested good at the shop, gave no start two days ago, and then started the car lst night, can I rule out a bad cell in the battery?