1st Gen Durango 1998 - 2003 Durango's

Could use some advice

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  #11  
Old 11-06-2010, 07:19 PM
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the o2 sensors can go off if there is moisture in the plugs as well (i konw mine has put off a code for a shorted sensor bc of it) if it stays off dont worry about it, and returen the one you picked up
 
  #12  
Old 11-07-2010, 01:01 PM
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P0132 1/1 O2S Shorted To Voltage

This is the pre-cat sensor on the drivers side. Aftermarket 02 sensors are not very good in these rigs. You should buy the 02 sensors from the dealer only.


P0442 Evap Leak Monitor Medium Leak Detected

This mean you most likely you have at least 1 of the rubber lines on the Charcoal canister is cracked or deteriorated and needs replaced. Also replace your gas cap.

P0456 Evap Leak Monitor Small (0.020) Leak Detected

Same as above.


As for the plugs, replace them with Champion Copper cheap $2 plugs and remember to gap at .040

Remember ANY time you mess with any type of induction or ignition systems or rally anything for that matter ALL WAYS reset the PCM so it can re-learn the new parameters of the new system. The instructions *** well as all codes are listed here: https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...ine-light.html



Lastly, you can try to burn off the crap off the old 02 sensor. You remove the 02 sensor and heat the end with a propane torch and burn off all the glowing orange deposits. Then install the same 02 sensor again. Remember to only heat the end and nothing from the threaded end up. Remember that it might get hot.
 

Last edited by hydrashocker; 11-07-2010 at 01:04 PM.
  #13  
Old 11-07-2010, 03:52 PM
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please reread his last post, he fixed the evap leak and the light went off, if it stays off he doesnt need to worry about it, if it comes back on he has been instructed to move onto the o2 sensor
 
  #14  
Old 11-11-2010, 11:21 PM
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Well....The light may have gone off but I have not got an increase in mpg. I have driven twice up to 100 miles and refilled. The first, hwy and in town I got 12 mpg. The 2nd was hwy only for 100 miles. Got 12.7 mpg on that. So, while the light is not on, I am losing mpg. I can also smell fuel from time to time, so I think I am running rich. Perhaps put the new OEM O2 sensor in now eh. Let me know what you think and if you think I am missing something. Thank you for the advice thus far.
 
  #15  
Old 11-14-2010, 06:52 PM
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I hope you reset the PCM first: https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...ine-light.html


Mine took 300 miles once to fully reset the PCM.
 
  #16  
Old 11-14-2010, 10:38 PM
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try resetting the pcm and run a full tank through it , if it still sucks after that i would replace the pre-cat o2 sensor
 
  #17  
Old 12-22-2010, 03:02 AM
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Default still having mpg issues

Ok...so replaced the pre cat sensor. Ran a tank through it. Still bad MPG. Reset the pcm and ran a tank through it. My mpg is all over the place. From hwy to intown. In town before all this went down I would consistently measure 15.1-15.4 mpg. 17 on occasion via hwy. Now I am almost always at 13 mpg even with hwy miles. Yet my last trip home got me 348 miles on a single tank with 15.1 mpg, so better than usual, but still not up to par.

There is something not right. Then engine light for O2 sensor or anywhere else is no longer an issue. I havent seen it come on in a long time now, which is a relief, but my mpg is still suffering. I did put a cold air intake on it but the mpg should not be this bad. This all stared when I towed my friends 2500lbs sailboat. It started with some white smoke I had not seen before. I have not seen it since.

So what I am missing??? Air leak with the intake I put on? Spark plugs not gapped or firing right? I have changed my driving style to be considerably more slow, easy, and relaxed. No more stomping on the gas and this I would say is an even bigger let down....I got better mpg when I would step on it. The engine still is reliable and runs soundly, but there is something wrong. Any ideas I am missing. Reset the pcm again in a different manner???

I am a college student and single dad with a very limited income, and the loss of 2 mpg even is HUGE in costs for me in the long run. Thanks for any assistance you can provide. Merry Christmas!

Ps....having spongy breaks. More than what seems normal. New pads, rotors 10k miles ago but at 2000 miles ago I just had the break fluid redone. Since then the breaks have seemed MUCH softer. Cant put my finger on this. Fluid level stays constant. Suggestions???
***edit addition: My front pads are at like 90% or so and the rear are sitting at like 30-40%. Would replacing the rear help this? I think it is time.
 

Last edited by Livingit; 12-22-2010 at 03:17 AM.
  #18  
Old 12-22-2010, 09:05 AM
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the PCM can take up to 500 miles to actually relearn all the settings and optimize itself.

and you have mentioned a number of good things to check onyour own including plugs, wires distributor cap/rotor.

the brakes im not sure what to tell you, try adjusting the rear brakes (either with the manual adjusters int he drums, or by backing up and stopping quickly, drums adjust by a rocking motion, if you dont back up frequently enough the rears will not stay in adjustment properly)
 
  #19  
Old 12-22-2010, 04:04 PM
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Now we're getting somewhere.


You have a lil white smoke huh? Have you checked the coolant level lately? Could be a slight crack in the head allowing a little coolant into the combustion chamber. With added H02, it could make you burn rich. You could have someone test the exhaust for hydrocarbons or a compression test.

No on the brakes, waste of time and $$$$.

Replace plugs with Champion Copper $2 plugs and gap them at .040 before install.

There is also a noticeable delay between the time I press on the peddle, rpm to actual acceleration.
Could be the trans filter is not installed correctly and drawing air into the system. If this happens you should run noticeably hotter that usual and sh!ty fuel mileage. You will see the heat up especially when climbing a tall steep hill.

Also, you could try a catalytic converter back pressure test. Most muffler shops will do this for free. They just test the before and after CAT pressures to see if the CAT is plugged.

Lastly you could try the distilled water/throttle body trick to see if you can steam clean the CAT if plugged.
 



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