so i replaced the cylender heads and all gaskets along with altering the exhaust manifold to compensate for the factory default snapping the rear two bolts by drilling out the rear hole on each manifold a bit larger and it sits perfect now. i properly zeroed the timing and place 21 lbs of pressure on each rocker arm bolt so there is no timing issue. there are all new electronics for tune up ( CAP ROTOR PLUGS WIRES COIL). When i start the truck tho it has a small sputtter dropping below 500 rpms and rising back up. when driven it runs beautiful no missing, good power in acceleration and NO MORE EXHAUST LEAK. but i cant get rid of this small shake at idle. i was thinking something with valve stems or maybe it just needs to ride out. i know rocker arm positions if too loose or tight will effect how it is running but it was zeroed re torqued and started four times before placing the valve covers back on. any suggestions? is there an idle relay? p.s. there is also a draw on the batt when turned off so the batt will die after 12 hrs off could they be related?

 

Try to Index the distributor:

Move the motor to about 6 degrees BTDC on compression stroke on #1. Loosen the distributor hold down lug, open the distributor cap and place the rotor in direct line (nice and perfectly square) of #1 on the distributor cap. (Do NOT reverse the motor, if you go over 6 degree mark on the crank you must go through the entire rest of the strokes and place it on the mark again). Tighten the distributor hold down lug.

Next, only use Champion Copper spark plugs! These are the OEM and gap at .040

Wires should be OEM, Performance Mopar, or MSD 8.5mm red wires.

Clean the Throttle Body and IAC. Remove the TB: https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...ttle-body.html

Reset the PCM: https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...ine-light.html

 

been a while but still got a a little engine lean at idle. check engine light finally came on. pulled a code on it "misfire cylender 3" rechecked the spark still good. thinking fuel injectors. dont know how to clean them tho. i know theres additives but im thinking theres a better way. any suggestions

 

I use both STP (black bottle) and Lucas fuel treatment. Both of those worked great for me. I had some dirty fuel injectors and use the black bottle of STP one bottle once the fuel tank was almost dry and filled it with mid grade gas and it solved my problem.

I use the Lucas fuel treatment on a regular basis I just add some out of the huge bottle to return gas tank and I don't notice much, but do notice a slight bit of performance improvement out of the engine. They claim it's got upper cylinder lubricant including cleaning clogged fuel injectors and I notice a slight improvement so I would have to recommend it.

Hope this helped.

 

thanks but im weary of the injectors cuz theres a slight shift problem between 1st and second gear so im thinking still electronic. its weird i changed the 1 wire cuz they were all new and it went away for a day and then came back. there were no heat sheilds so i figured the wire overheated. replaced the wire again but it didnt go away this time.

Lean Misfire
The lean misfire is another common reason for an engine "miss"—this is due to an imbalanced air/fuel ratio (too much air/too little fuel). Since an engine needs a richer (more fuel) mixture for a smooth idle, this problem may be more noticeable when the vehicle is idling. The lean misfire may decrease or disappear as the engine speed increases because the efficiency of the volumetric flow into the combustion chambers increases dramatically. This is one reason why a vehicle gets better mileage on the freeway than in the city. An EGR valve that is stuck open, a leaking Intake Manifold Gasket, a defective Mass Air Flow Sensor, a weak or failing fuel pump, or a plugged fuel filter are some of the many causes for a lean misfire.


new intake manifold gasket already so that can be counted out but as for the other three why would it only show a misfire on one specific cylinder? mass airflow would cause multiple misfires and fuel pump and fuel filters would most likely effect them all too. i have adequate pressure at the fuel rail and the #3 cylinder is on the side of the engine the rail get the fuel and its before the #1 gets the fuel. so not only does it have to pass #3 to get to #1 it has to travel over to the other side of the engine to reach the even cylinders. anyone got any other suggestions on my logic?

 

or bad wire to the #3 injector?

 

id look at the #3 injector and connection, maybe switch the #1 and #3 injectors to see if the problem follows the injector, if so maybe just replace it??

 

good call ima do that. simple and suprised i didnt think of that lol

 

God it feels nice to see that some people know what their talking about......LMFAO


Anyway, I would replace the spark plugs with Champion Coppers gaped at .040, then if that doesn't work you can pull your injectors and send them out to get properly cleaned. The one thing you could try BEFORE ripping it down, and I HATE additives period (had to get that out there), you could try a stiff mixture of Seafoam (it's a additive that is non corrosive) and pour the entire bottle in like 5-10 gallons of fuel and run it.

Personally, I would do both.

 

so i swapped out the injectors and cleaned them and now im getting multiple misfires on cylinder 3 and 7. im thinking air now. not sure tho. since i swapped them it ran perfect for two to three days and then came back. i was hoping it would be a misfire on cylender 1 where i swapped #3 to so i can just change an injector. nope instead it ran multiple misfires, one still on three and now on 7 also. could the placement of the injectors on the rail effect it. i dont want to jump to air and start gettin idle sensors and stuff like that cuz it might not be necessary. plus if the idle sensor was stuck it would be a high idle problem... atleast i think.. i dunno pretty stumped on why im gettin more misfires now any help would be appreciated.