00 5.9 Fuel ecomomy?
#1
12-20-2010, 08:19 AM
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00 5.9 Fuel ecomomy?
Does anyone have any ideas on what I can do to help out the gas mileage on a 00 5.9L durango. It does have the full time 4x4. I have put a throttle body spacer and a K&N filter on it. It is up to an average of 12.5? maybe. Any other tricks or ideas would be very helpful.
Jay
Jay
#2
12-20-2010, 08:36 AM
Record Breaker
Did you put a k&n drop in filter or a cold air intake kit? I'd recommend cleaning the throttle body, changing the spark plugs, cleaning out the IAC, replace the distributor cap and rotor, replacing plug wires, and throwing s bottle of fuel injector cleaner in the tank.
The 5.9 is a big azz engine and theres not going to be any incredibly drastic improvements in your fuel economy. I have a spectre cold air intake, new plugs that have 8k miles on them, a new dist cap and rotor, and I'm getting around 15 or 16 mpg.
Replace the plugs with ONLY Champion copper or truck plugs gapped to 0.040, they are really the only thing our rigs like. Replace the plug wires with OEM, Mopar Performance, or MSD 8.5mm wires. Replace the cap and rotor with OEM or MSD.
I'm quoting hydra on this and are very good instructions to cleaning your throttle body and IAC. Don't forget to reset your PCM afterwards!
Edit: It's also based on how you drive and what you drive on. Is most of your driving in the city sitting in traffic or on the highway down country roadshow what not? Also keep in mind if you drive it like a corvette on race day it's going to have worse gas mileage too. I just got the window sticker out and the mpg on the sticker is 11 city and 16 highway.
The 5.9 is a big azz engine and theres not going to be any incredibly drastic improvements in your fuel economy. I have a spectre cold air intake, new plugs that have 8k miles on them, a new dist cap and rotor, and I'm getting around 15 or 16 mpg.
Replace the plugs with ONLY Champion copper or truck plugs gapped to 0.040, they are really the only thing our rigs like. Replace the plug wires with OEM, Mopar Performance, or MSD 8.5mm wires. Replace the cap and rotor with OEM or MSD.
I'm quoting hydra on this and are very good instructions to cleaning your throttle body and IAC. Don't forget to reset your PCM afterwards!
How to clean your Throttle Body:
Most people think that cleaning the throttle body requires a can of Carb/Throttle Body Cleaner and a quick "wash" of the bores. This may work, but only washes the dirt and cleaner down into your intake manifold where it can puddle up and break down the belly-pan gasket. Then, it also is pulled into the combustion chamber where is can foul up the spark plugs.
The proper way to clean your throttle body is to remove it from the engine (you'll need a small pan, some compressed air, and a new throttle body gasket for this procedure):
1. Remove your air hat from the throttle body
2. Disconnect the sensor connectors (TPS, MAP, and IAC)
3. Remove the four throttle body bolts
4. Lift the throttle body up and away from the intake manifold (place a rag over the manifold opening to prevent anything from falling inside)
5. Remove the three sensors (Do not drop them)
6. Remove the three screws for the throttle linkage (Not required...can be done with linkage attached)
7. Place the throttle body in a small pan and spray Carb/Throttle Body Cleaner in the bores, underside passages, and ports. Let soak for about a minute.
8. Spray some more Carb/Throttle Body Cleaner in the bores and ports of the throttle body
9. Wipe clean with a lint free rag (baby diaper works well) and blow out all the ports with some compressed air (a small can from a electronics store works just fine).
10. Reinstall all sensors, then reinstall on your vehicle with a new Throttle Body gasket (don't forget to remove the rag)
11. Reset the computer: Engine Code Index (Check Engine Light?)
How to Clean the IAC Solenoid:
This is recommended at every Tune-Up to prevent excess carbon buildup on the IAC plunger. In some cases, you'll notice a slightly erratic idle quality. This is the first step in taking care of that problem. IAC = Intake Air Control (Solenoid).
1. Remove the Air Hat from the Throttle Body
2. Disconnect the sensor harness from the IAC Solenoid (Rear of Throttle Body)
3. Remove the two Torx-25 Screws
4. Remove the IAC Solenoid (Be careful not to lose the rubber O-Ring)
5. Spray some Carb/TB Cleaner in the IAC port on the Throttle Body and let it sit
6. Spray some Carb/TB Cleaner on the tip of the IAC Solenoid and wipe clean (Do NOT forcefully twist or push the plunger - You will damage the Solenoid. Wipe very gently.)
7. Spray a little bit more Carb/TB Cleaner in the IAC port on the Throttle Body and wipe clean with a thin/lint-free rag
8. Reinstall the IAC Solenoid (Make sure you don't lose the rubber gasket on the solenoid)
9. Reinstall the sensor connector and airhat
10. Reset the computer: Engine Code Index (Check Engine Light?)
Most people think that cleaning the throttle body requires a can of Carb/Throttle Body Cleaner and a quick "wash" of the bores. This may work, but only washes the dirt and cleaner down into your intake manifold where it can puddle up and break down the belly-pan gasket. Then, it also is pulled into the combustion chamber where is can foul up the spark plugs.
The proper way to clean your throttle body is to remove it from the engine (you'll need a small pan, some compressed air, and a new throttle body gasket for this procedure):
1. Remove your air hat from the throttle body
2. Disconnect the sensor connectors (TPS, MAP, and IAC)
3. Remove the four throttle body bolts
4. Lift the throttle body up and away from the intake manifold (place a rag over the manifold opening to prevent anything from falling inside)
5. Remove the three sensors (Do not drop them)
6. Remove the three screws for the throttle linkage (Not required...can be done with linkage attached)
7. Place the throttle body in a small pan and spray Carb/Throttle Body Cleaner in the bores, underside passages, and ports. Let soak for about a minute.
8. Spray some more Carb/Throttle Body Cleaner in the bores and ports of the throttle body
9. Wipe clean with a lint free rag (baby diaper works well) and blow out all the ports with some compressed air (a small can from a electronics store works just fine).
10. Reinstall all sensors, then reinstall on your vehicle with a new Throttle Body gasket (don't forget to remove the rag)
11. Reset the computer: Engine Code Index (Check Engine Light?)
How to Clean the IAC Solenoid:
This is recommended at every Tune-Up to prevent excess carbon buildup on the IAC plunger. In some cases, you'll notice a slightly erratic idle quality. This is the first step in taking care of that problem. IAC = Intake Air Control (Solenoid).
1. Remove the Air Hat from the Throttle Body
2. Disconnect the sensor harness from the IAC Solenoid (Rear of Throttle Body)
3. Remove the two Torx-25 Screws
4. Remove the IAC Solenoid (Be careful not to lose the rubber O-Ring)
5. Spray some Carb/TB Cleaner in the IAC port on the Throttle Body and let it sit
6. Spray some Carb/TB Cleaner on the tip of the IAC Solenoid and wipe clean (Do NOT forcefully twist or push the plunger - You will damage the Solenoid. Wipe very gently.)
7. Spray a little bit more Carb/TB Cleaner in the IAC port on the Throttle Body and wipe clean with a thin/lint-free rag
8. Reinstall the IAC Solenoid (Make sure you don't lose the rubber gasket on the solenoid)
9. Reinstall the sensor connector and airhat
10. Reset the computer: Engine Code Index (Check Engine Light?)
Last edited by WhiteWidow00; 12-20-2010 at 08:53 AM.
#3
12-20-2010, 08:54 AM
THE ULTI-MOD
and loose the tb spacer its not doing anything for you, however dont expect much from the 5.9, if you can get 15 on the highway you are doing better than anyone that i know
you could also try a superchips or similar programer with a fuel efficiency setting, however you will probably loose some power doing that
you could also try a superchips or similar programer with a fuel efficiency setting, however you will probably loose some power doing that
#4
12-20-2010, 11:22 AM
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#5
12-20-2010, 11:43 AM
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#6
12-20-2010, 12:03 PM
Record Breaker
Yes there is a bit of a difference because MSD makes performance parts where Mopar OEM is just a replacement if what came in the vehicle.
And yes I am getting 15 or 16 mpg. I have rebuilt the engine and kept Mobil1 FS oil in it since the day I bought it. There's quite a difference of buying a used vehicle and having a vehicle since it was brought off the truck from the manufacturer. I don't have a lo of the neglectful history on my truck that a lot of people have on their used cars.
Also, ease off the throttle and you will notice a significant mpg increase. I also have a SuperChips power programmer and that 15-16 is based on running my truck in economy mode (decreases the power output to the wheels and uses less gas).
And yes I am getting 15 or 16 mpg. I have rebuilt the engine and kept Mobil1 FS oil in it since the day I bought it. There's quite a difference of buying a used vehicle and having a vehicle since it was brought off the truck from the manufacturer. I don't have a lo of the neglectful history on my truck that a lot of people have on their used cars.
Also, ease off the throttle and you will notice a significant mpg increase. I also have a SuperChips power programmer and that 15-16 is based on running my truck in economy mode (decreases the power output to the wheels and uses less gas).
#7
12-20-2010, 03:01 PM
Hall Of Fame
I ran 15.8 mpg's hwy with my old 5.9L and it was bored 30 over, P&P heads, 52mm Fastman, custom intake work, MSD ignition, home brew CIA, PCM tweeked, 3" Magnaflow, and a lot of other things. So it CAN be done.
The MSD wires have very little resistance per foot unlike OEM or other performance wires. It just depends on your build and personal opinions.
The MSD wires have very little resistance per foot unlike OEM or other performance wires. It just depends on your build and personal opinions.
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#8
12-20-2010, 09:07 PM
Champion