1st Gen Durango 1998 - 2003 Durango's

Air/Fuel Mixture thrown off

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Old Jan 24, 2011 | 02:15 AM
  #11  
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Have you tried pulling reflashing your PCM back to stock? I.E. Pulling out the tune from your handheld? I would also definately check the powersteering switch. It seems to cause all kinds of isssues. I also know that when my PCM failed on my 2000 Sebring it acted similiar to what you describe from your but when connected to a scan tool you could get next to nothing as far as data from it.

Another thing you might try if none of this is any help is pull the fuel rail and have someone cycle the key if possible to check for a leaky injectors. I doubt but I have seen an instance on a friend car where one actually stuck open. We had fun with it as the car was beat and a newspaper and a lighter meant he had flamethrowers.

P.S. Just a gut feeling here and could be totally wrong but I think you may be the victim of timing chain stretch. I have seen similiar problems in the past and have even seen a mani or two glow red from the excess exhaust heat.
 

Last edited by Biff85ta; Jan 24, 2011 at 02:19 AM. Reason: Needed to add something
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Old Jan 24, 2011 | 06:11 AM
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Another thing you may want to check is the IAT sensor in the front passenger side of the intake manifold. If it's faulty and causing it to read a very low incoming air temp, the PCM will literally dump fuel into the system. Just something to think about.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2011 | 06:21 AM
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I forget what it's called, but have you tested the air intake sensor? On a GM vehicle it would be a mass airflow sensor, but chrysler uses a sensor that checks pressure instead of flow. Either way they're providing the same data to the computer. I'm sure somebody will chime in with the correct name for the sensor I'm thinking of...

If the computer is getting bad info about the amount of air entering the engine, that could easily cause it to set the mixture too rich.
 

Last edited by coreybv; Jan 24, 2011 at 06:25 AM.
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Old Jan 24, 2011 | 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by coreybv
I forget what it's called, but have you tested the air intake sensor? On a GM vehicle it would be a mass airflow sensor, but chrysler uses a sensor that checks pressure instead of flow. Either way they're providing the same data to the computer. I'm sure somebody will chime in with the correct name for the sensor I'm thinking of...

If the computer is getting bad info about the amount of air entering the engine, that could easily cause it to set the mixture too rich.
It's called the MAP (Mainfold Absolute Pressure) sensor and it's located on the front of the TB.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2011 | 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by bwdakrt
It's called the MAP (Mainfold Absolute Pressure) sensor and it's located on the front of the TB.
Yep, that's the one I was thinking of....
 
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Old Jan 25, 2011 | 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Biff85ta
Have you tried pulling reflashing your PCM back to stock? I.E. Pulling out the tune from your handheld? I would also definately check the powersteering switch. It seems to cause all kinds of isssues. I also know that when my PCM failed on my 2000 Sebring it acted similiar to what you describe from your but when connected to a scan tool you could get next to nothing as far as data from it.


I think you may be the victim of timing chain stretch.
2 good ideas Biff, however chains don't stretch, they wear. As the bushings wear the chain gets longer, but ya......


Also what about a pre CAT 02 sensor not warming to temp but not low enough to trigger a code.

Also a MAP or intake manifold air temp sensor.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2011 | 12:10 AM
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Originally Posted by hydrashocker
2 good ideas Biff, however chains don't stretch, they wear. As the bushings wear the chain gets longer, but ya......
Picky picky picky
 
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Old Jan 26, 2011 | 11:55 AM
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Hmm... I guess I forgot to mention my engine codes its throwing. P0132 and P0135 (Hi Volts on both sensors)
 
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Old Jan 26, 2011 | 12:14 PM
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Both of those codes are for the 1/1 sensor.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2011 | 12:18 PM
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Po135 is a code for an O2 heater failure I would suspect a ground problem on the O2. I would also check for power to the connector on the heater side of things.
 
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