advice / help needed
#14
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I changed the rear diff fluid. And it was horrible fluid. I am thinking about changing it again in a week, hopefully to clean out any extra dirty fluid or metal shavings left behind.
@WhiteWidow00
The rear main seal, the oil pan gasket, and the valve cover seals all already have leaks.
As I said before I think my new (used) Durango was not maintained well.
I am reviewing the conditions and getting a list together of the parts and services the truck needs.
@shrpshtr325
“It will help to break down any build up and that will settle in the pan, clog something up (filter, pump you get the idea) and that will cause ALOT of problems because the engine will be running dry.”
That’s what I want to prevent. I had seen a lot of dodges in general with almost no reading on the dipstick.
I’m going to change the valve cover gasket and wanted to tackle the oil pan gasket to help minimize the leaks it already has.
I would figure running an engine flush would cause leaks but changing the said gaskets above should stop the leaks in that area of the engine.
“Spin the fan by hand, if it doesn’t spin at all it is seized, if it spins 1/4-1/2 a turn it is fine, if it spins more than that it’s worn out and won’t cool properly”
Thanks for the info, I am going to def try this.
@samnbensdad, MAGIC84
I used Seafoam with great results. I actually got a can after I got the truck…
To all who have commented here, thank you.
@WhiteWidow00
The rear main seal, the oil pan gasket, and the valve cover seals all already have leaks.
As I said before I think my new (used) Durango was not maintained well.
I am reviewing the conditions and getting a list together of the parts and services the truck needs.
@shrpshtr325
“It will help to break down any build up and that will settle in the pan, clog something up (filter, pump you get the idea) and that will cause ALOT of problems because the engine will be running dry.”
That’s what I want to prevent. I had seen a lot of dodges in general with almost no reading on the dipstick.
I’m going to change the valve cover gasket and wanted to tackle the oil pan gasket to help minimize the leaks it already has.
I would figure running an engine flush would cause leaks but changing the said gaskets above should stop the leaks in that area of the engine.
“Spin the fan by hand, if it doesn’t spin at all it is seized, if it spins 1/4-1/2 a turn it is fine, if it spins more than that it’s worn out and won’t cool properly”
Thanks for the info, I am going to def try this.
@samnbensdad, MAGIC84
I used Seafoam with great results. I actually got a can after I got the truck…
To all who have commented here, thank you.
#15
#16
![Default](https://dodgeforum.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
havent tried to tighten the bolts on valve cover and oil pan but changed the brake fluid and seafoam through the brake booster.
Im starting to think that everything on the truck is original.
the brake fluid was very dark in color (black to dark greenish color)
i was experiencing spongy brake and hesitant acceleration.
Im starting to think that everything on the truck is original.
the brake fluid was very dark in color (black to dark greenish color)
i was experiencing spongy brake and hesitant acceleration.
#17
![Default](https://dodgeforum.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
New brake fluid bleed through the system will help with the sponginess. When I change it out I use an entire large bottle of DOT-3 and leave just enough to fill the master cylinder so I use the whole bottle. I first start by pulling all the old fluid out from the master cylinder leaving just enough to keep air from getting into the system. Fill the master cylinder with new fluid. Next start with the pas rear wheel, move to drivers rear, then pas front, then drivers front. Remember DO NOT LET THE MASTER CYLINDER RUN EMPTY! After any bleeding always top off the master cylinder.
As for the hesitant acceleration, clean the Throttle Body thoroughly and clean the IAC. Also new Champion Copper spark plugs and some OEM wires, and lastly a new cap and rotor.
As for the hesitant acceleration, clean the Throttle Body thoroughly and clean the IAC. Also new Champion Copper spark plugs and some OEM wires, and lastly a new cap and rotor.
Last edited by hydrashocker; 02-28-2011 at 12:14 PM.