If I were to tune up my Durango in anticipation of an up coming smog test, exactly what would this tune up involve?
This is a 2001 Dodge Durango, 2 WD, 4.7L.
It does have 8-spark plugs, an air cleaner, maybe a PCV valve.. There are no plug wires. There are no points. There is no distrubutor cap.
I did have a "tune-up " done at the dealer at about 50,000 miles. The car now has 94,000 miles. I suppose that they changed the spark plugs, but who knows.
So, exactly what defines a tune up for this vehicle? Is there something else that may need attention like the throttle body, whatever that it?
This is a 2001 Dodge Durango, 2 WD, 4.7L.
It does have 8-spark plugs, an air cleaner, maybe a PCV valve.. There are no plug wires. There are no points. There is no distrubutor cap.
I did have a "tune-up " done at the dealer at about 50,000 miles. The car now has 94,000 miles. I suppose that they changed the spark plugs, but who knows.
So, exactly what defines a tune up for this vehicle? Is there something else that may need attention like the throttle body, whatever that it?
Record Breaker
Since you are at 94k miles I'd go ahead and do a regular tune up along with your 100k mile maintenance. To me this would consist of a full fluid changes, and a tune up.
First I'd replace all spark plugs with what OEM calls for. Wouldn't recommend platinum but it's up to your discretion what you want to use. Keep in mind OEM is Champion Copper and they're proven to work the best.
I'd do a full transmission fluid replacement and replace the filters. Flush the coolant and replace with regular 50/50 and maybe replace the T-Stat if you want to (I would). I'd also replace the rear differential lube also since it's probably nice and used and broken down by now (I like to use synthetic!).
I'd also replace the PCV valve and check over all the vacuum lines and check for cracks and replace if needed. I'd also replace the air filter if it's a regular paper element one or clean/recharge it if it's a K&N or washable type.
I'd go ahead and clean out the throttle body and run a can of SeaFoam thru the vacuum lines and tank, although SeaFoam is not required. Instructions to cleaning out the throttle body can be found in the DIY (FAQs) sticky at the top of the thread page.
First I'd replace all spark plugs with what OEM calls for. Wouldn't recommend platinum but it's up to your discretion what you want to use. Keep in mind OEM is Champion Copper and they're proven to work the best.
I'd do a full transmission fluid replacement and replace the filters. Flush the coolant and replace with regular 50/50 and maybe replace the T-Stat if you want to (I would). I'd also replace the rear differential lube also since it's probably nice and used and broken down by now (I like to use synthetic!).
I'd also replace the PCV valve and check over all the vacuum lines and check for cracks and replace if needed. I'd also replace the air filter if it's a regular paper element one or clean/recharge it if it's a K&N or washable type.
I'd go ahead and clean out the throttle body and run a can of SeaFoam thru the vacuum lines and tank, although SeaFoam is not required. Instructions to cleaning out the throttle body can be found in the DIY (FAQs) sticky at the top of the thread page.
All Star
+2 on vacuum lines..... one pretty common area of tears and dryrot is near the evap canister..Drivers side inboard frame rail.....just below or maybe slightly behind the drivers seat. two vacuum lines that get covered in just about everything... dirt, debris, cuts, tears.. etc..... another area to check is the lines running behind the PCV VALVE.
As far as tune up pretty much everyhing that you would check on most vehicles at 100K with 94K you are close enough.... Check Spark plugs...NO PLATINUM....OIL CHANGE, PCV VALVE, air filter, usual emissions inspection and good overall inspection...I would probably recommend checking alignment, ball joints and suspension components etc....remove/replace as necessary. If in doubt about the plugs have them changed....
Other stuff to at least consider.....coolant change and system flush... Serpentine Drive belt.....(Goodyear Gatorback is a pretty strong recommendation for their durability and reliability and I would recommend them based on personal experience...a few extra dollars but worth it IMHO!)
If you are going for emissions inspection then there is probably a safety inspection coming soon depending on your state.... ...good luck!
As far as tune up pretty much everyhing that you would check on most vehicles at 100K with 94K you are close enough.... Check Spark plugs...NO PLATINUM....OIL CHANGE, PCV VALVE, air filter, usual emissions inspection and good overall inspection...I would probably recommend checking alignment, ball joints and suspension components etc....remove/replace as necessary. If in doubt about the plugs have them changed....
Other stuff to at least consider.....coolant change and system flush... Serpentine Drive belt.....(Goodyear Gatorback is a pretty strong recommendation for their durability and reliability and I would recommend them based on personal experience...a few extra dollars but worth it IMHO!)
If you are going for emissions inspection then there is probably a safety inspection coming soon depending on your state.... ...good luck!
Record Breaker
Quote:
+1 to that! The only place to find those now a days however is an online retailer. Summit Racing is the best price I have found but from what I've seen and experienced, much worth the extra bucks over a Gates or Dayco.Originally Posted by MAGIC84
Goodyear Gatorback is a pretty strong recommendation for their durability and reliability and I would recommend them based on personal experience...a few extra dollars but worth it IMHO!
I can't locate the DIY (Do it yourself) stuff. Does that still exist in this forum? There's a place for it but nothibng there. Or, I am looking in the wrong place.
As for having the plugs replaced, I just called a local shop and they charge $230 to do that. Is there a lot of work involved in changing the plugs in this vehicle?
There is no safety check in California.
As for having the plugs replaced, I just called a local shop and they charge $230 to do that. Is there a lot of work involved in changing the plugs in this vehicle?
There is no safety check in California.
Record Breaker
The DIY section can be found here:
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...wers-faqs.html
As for paying $230 to replace the spark plugs, LOL!!! It's not that bad and if you know even a little bit about the engine, you can save $200 doing it yourself. The cheap Champion Copper plugs cost no more than $20 and all you need is a couple hand tools and a 5/8" socket.
To clean out the throttle body, instructions can be found here:
http://www.mediafire.com/?k0742k5tvj1dqxh
HTH
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...wers-faqs.html
As for paying $230 to replace the spark plugs, LOL!!! It's not that bad and if you know even a little bit about the engine, you can save $200 doing it yourself. The cheap Champion Copper plugs cost no more than $20 and all you need is a couple hand tools and a 5/8" socket.
To clean out the throttle body, instructions can be found here:
http://www.mediafire.com/?k0742k5tvj1dqxh
HTH
All Star
Plugs shouldnt be that difficult...... a little time consuming but not overly difficult....probably most difficult one is the one against the firewall on the passengers side.... there is a light offset of the cylinders so that cylinder is back against the firewall a bit more than the drivers side. A good long extension...universal and deep spark plug socket (5/8'ths I believe) with plenty of WD40 or pb blaster should help.....remember the anti sieze when you install them again. Since each cylinder has their own coil it is fairly easy... good snug fit and connect the electrical connection to the coil pack...... if you can count to 8 and have a little mechanical knowledge and patience you should be fine......
NOTE DRIVERS AND PASSENGERS SIDE ARE as you are sitting in the Drivers seat looking forward. I believe the cylinders are 1-3-5-7 on drivers side.... 1 nearest radiator.. 7 against firewall.....2-4-6-8 passengers side....same 2 near radiator and oil cap....8 is the painful one that I described earlier.
If you are uncomfortable then I would recommend professionals but not at $230 you should be able to get it done a lot cheaper..... remember Champion Coppercore NO PLATINUM!!!! I even believe Champion makes a truck plug for this engine....check rockauto.com
NOTE DRIVERS AND PASSENGERS SIDE ARE as you are sitting in the Drivers seat looking forward. I believe the cylinders are 1-3-5-7 on drivers side.... 1 nearest radiator.. 7 against firewall.....2-4-6-8 passengers side....same 2 near radiator and oil cap....8 is the painful one that I described earlier.
If you are uncomfortable then I would recommend professionals but not at $230 you should be able to get it done a lot cheaper..... remember Champion Coppercore NO PLATINUM!!!! I even believe Champion makes a truck plug for this engine....check rockauto.com
All Star
Plus 2 on NO to $230..... $20-30 in plugs..... maybe $50 with shipping if you get Champion truck plugs...... and a good friend with some mechanical basics and tools... maybe a couple of cases of beer....(AFTER THE WORK IS DONE OF COURSE!).. $75 tops... plan 1-2 hours....and a cold engine.....I take a little longer because I am more methodical....I remove/replace and ops check after each cylinder.... that way if there is a problem I can isolate better.
Also......COVER UP THE THROTTLE BODY......if you have factory intake housing then you will have to remove it. YOU CANT BE TOO CAREFUL...... tools and if the throttle cable gets moved and intake opens up there is a chance of a stray tool getting sucked down the intake..... An extreme longshot I know but is it worth the risk for a possible bent valve?
Also......COVER UP THE THROTTLE BODY......if you have factory intake housing then you will have to remove it. YOU CANT BE TOO CAREFUL...... tools and if the throttle cable gets moved and intake opens up there is a chance of a stray tool getting sucked down the intake..... An extreme longshot I know but is it worth the risk for a possible bent valve?