A/C Compressor Cluch Change.
#11
03-04-2011, 09:28 AM
THE ULTI-MOD
I'm not so sure. Nowhere in my first post did I mention a new clutch. Nor did I mention buying a new clutch, or that I even had a new clutch.
I simply asked step by step how one would go about changing said clutch.
What were the first two replies? That I couldn't buy new clutches, and wondering if I had a new clutch.
So far, the step by step of how the clutch is removed is still what's missing and ironically that's all I asked for.
While no offense was intended...it seems it WAS necessary.
I simply asked step by step how one would go about changing said clutch.
What were the first two replies? That I couldn't buy new clutches, and wondering if I had a new clutch.
So far, the step by step of how the clutch is removed is still what's missing and ironically that's all I asked for.
While no offense was intended...it seems it WAS necessary.
the reason we mentioned that clutches werent available for sale on their own ect ect is because we were trying to save you the effort of attempting to pull the clutch off only to find out you had to replace the compressor anyway,
since you said you have a compressor off of another truck w/ the clutch what i would do is take the good clutch off first to see how it comes off, and then do the one on the truck
also since you said this is your daily driver you can get an a/c bypass belt and put that on if you dont finish the job in one shot, this was you can still drive the truck, just without the a/c pulley being turned
#12
03-04-2011, 09:34 AM
That's a great idea. I'm stumped as to why I didn't think of that it's so logical.
At this point I know I will have to unbolt the compressor to get a puller on the pulley.
I might buy a clutch rebuild kit, service the better of the two clutches, and install it.
#13
03-04-2011, 09:39 AM
Record Breaker
#14
03-04-2011, 10:46 AM
Record Breaker
Sorry, it looks like that link I gave you is a dead link now. However here are very written out instructions for step-by-step removal and re-install or a new A/C compressor clutch:
Hope this helps!!
Hope this helps!!
The refrigerant system can remain fully-charged during compressor clutch, pulley, or coil replacement. The compressor clutch can be serviced in the vehicle.
REMOVAL
Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
Remove the serpentine drive belt. Refer to Group 7 - Cooling System for the procedures.
Unplug the compressor clutch coil wire harness connector.
Insert the two pins of the spanner wrench (Special Tool 6462 in Kit 6460) into the holes of the clutch plate. Hold the clutch plate stationary and remove the hex nut Clutch Nut Remove
Remove the clutch plate and the clutch shims.
Remove the external front housing snap ring with snap ring pliers External Snap Ring Remove
Install the lip of the rotor puller (Special Tool C-6141-1 in Kit 6460) into the snap ring groove exposed in Step 6, and install the shaft protector (Special Tool C-6141-2 in Kit 6460) Shaft Protector and Puller
Install the puller through-bolts (Special Tool C-6461) through the puller flange and into the jaws of the rotor puller and tighten Install Puller Plate Turn the puller center bolt clockwise until the rotor pulley is free.
Remove the screw and retainer from the clutch coil lead wire harness on the compressor front housing Clutch Coil Lead Wire Harness
Remove the snap ring from the compressor hub and remove the clutch field coil Clutch Field Coil Snap Ring Remove Slide the clutch field coil off of the compressor hub.
INSPECTION
Examine the friction surfaces of the clutch pulley and the front plate for wear. The pulley and front plate should be replaced if there is excessive wear or scoring.
If the friction surfaces are oily, inspect the shaft and nose area of the compressor for oil. Remove the felt from the front cover. If the felt is saturated with oil, the shaft seal is leaking and the compressor must be replaced.
Check the clutch pulley bearing for roughness or excessive leakage of grease. Replace the bearing, if required.
INSTALLATION
Install the clutch field coil and snap ring.
Install the clutch coil lead wire harness retaining clip on the compressor front housing and tighten the retaining screw.
Align the rotor assembly squarely on the front compressor housing hub.
Thread the handle (Special Tool 6464 in Kit 6460) into the driver (Special Tool 6143 in Kit 6460) Rotor Installer Set
Place the driver tool assembly into the bearing cavity on the rotor. Make certain the outer edge of the tool rests firmly on the rotor bearing inner race Rotor Install
Tap the end of the driver while guiding the rotor to prevent binding. Tap until the rotor bottoms against the compressor front housing hub. Listen for a distinct change of sound during the tapping process, to indicate the bottoming of the rotor.
Install the external front rotor snap ring with snap ring pliers. The bevel side of the snap ring must be facing outward. Press the snap ring to make sure it is properly seated in the groove
CAUTION: If the snap ring is not fully seated in the groove it will vibrate out, resulting in a clutch failure and severe damage to the front housing of the compressor.
Install the original clutch shims on the compressor shaft.
Install the clutch plate. Use the shaft protector (Special Tool 6141-2 in Kit 6460) to install the clutch plate on the compressor shaft Clutch Plate Install Tap the clutch plate over the compressor shaft until it has bottomed against the clutch shims. Listen for a distinct change of sound during the tapping process, to indicate the bottoming of the clutch plate.
Replace the compressor shaft hex nut. Tighten the nut to 14.4 N·m (10.5 ft. lbs.)
Check the clutch air gap with a feeler gauge Check Clutch Air Gap If the air gap does not meet the specification, add or subtract shims as required. The air gap specification is 0.41 to 0.79 millimeter (0.016 to 0.031 inch) If the air gap is not consistent around the circumference of the clutch, lightly pry up at the minimum variations. Lightly tap down at the points of maximum variation
NOTE: The air gap is determined by the spacer shims. When installing an original, or a new clutch assembly, try the original shims first. When installing a new clutch onto a compressor that previously did not have a clutch, use 1.0, 0.50, and 0.13 millimeter (0.040, 0.020, and 0.005 inch) shims from the clutch hardware package that is provided with the new clutch
Reverse the remaining removal procedures to complete the installation.
CLUTCH BREAK-IN
After a new compressor clutch has been installed, cycle the compressor clutch approximately twenty times (five seconds on, then five seconds off) During this procedure, set the heater-A/C control to the recirculation mode (Max-A/C), the blower motor switch to the highest speed position, and the engine speed at 1500 to 2000 rpm. This procedure (burnishing) will seat the opposing friction surfaces and provide a higher compressor clutch torque capability.
REMOVAL
Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
Remove the serpentine drive belt. Refer to Group 7 - Cooling System for the procedures.
Unplug the compressor clutch coil wire harness connector.
Insert the two pins of the spanner wrench (Special Tool 6462 in Kit 6460) into the holes of the clutch plate. Hold the clutch plate stationary and remove the hex nut Clutch Nut Remove
Remove the clutch plate and the clutch shims.
Remove the external front housing snap ring with snap ring pliers External Snap Ring Remove
Install the lip of the rotor puller (Special Tool C-6141-1 in Kit 6460) into the snap ring groove exposed in Step 6, and install the shaft protector (Special Tool C-6141-2 in Kit 6460) Shaft Protector and Puller
Install the puller through-bolts (Special Tool C-6461) through the puller flange and into the jaws of the rotor puller and tighten Install Puller Plate Turn the puller center bolt clockwise until the rotor pulley is free.
Remove the screw and retainer from the clutch coil lead wire harness on the compressor front housing Clutch Coil Lead Wire Harness
Remove the snap ring from the compressor hub and remove the clutch field coil Clutch Field Coil Snap Ring Remove Slide the clutch field coil off of the compressor hub.
INSPECTION
Examine the friction surfaces of the clutch pulley and the front plate for wear. The pulley and front plate should be replaced if there is excessive wear or scoring.
If the friction surfaces are oily, inspect the shaft and nose area of the compressor for oil. Remove the felt from the front cover. If the felt is saturated with oil, the shaft seal is leaking and the compressor must be replaced.
Check the clutch pulley bearing for roughness or excessive leakage of grease. Replace the bearing, if required.
INSTALLATION
Install the clutch field coil and snap ring.
Install the clutch coil lead wire harness retaining clip on the compressor front housing and tighten the retaining screw.
Align the rotor assembly squarely on the front compressor housing hub.
Thread the handle (Special Tool 6464 in Kit 6460) into the driver (Special Tool 6143 in Kit 6460) Rotor Installer Set
Place the driver tool assembly into the bearing cavity on the rotor. Make certain the outer edge of the tool rests firmly on the rotor bearing inner race Rotor Install
Tap the end of the driver while guiding the rotor to prevent binding. Tap until the rotor bottoms against the compressor front housing hub. Listen for a distinct change of sound during the tapping process, to indicate the bottoming of the rotor.
Install the external front rotor snap ring with snap ring pliers. The bevel side of the snap ring must be facing outward. Press the snap ring to make sure it is properly seated in the groove
CAUTION: If the snap ring is not fully seated in the groove it will vibrate out, resulting in a clutch failure and severe damage to the front housing of the compressor.
Install the original clutch shims on the compressor shaft.
Install the clutch plate. Use the shaft protector (Special Tool 6141-2 in Kit 6460) to install the clutch plate on the compressor shaft Clutch Plate Install Tap the clutch plate over the compressor shaft until it has bottomed against the clutch shims. Listen for a distinct change of sound during the tapping process, to indicate the bottoming of the clutch plate.
Replace the compressor shaft hex nut. Tighten the nut to 14.4 N·m (10.5 ft. lbs.)
Check the clutch air gap with a feeler gauge Check Clutch Air Gap If the air gap does not meet the specification, add or subtract shims as required. The air gap specification is 0.41 to 0.79 millimeter (0.016 to 0.031 inch) If the air gap is not consistent around the circumference of the clutch, lightly pry up at the minimum variations. Lightly tap down at the points of maximum variation
NOTE: The air gap is determined by the spacer shims. When installing an original, or a new clutch assembly, try the original shims first. When installing a new clutch onto a compressor that previously did not have a clutch, use 1.0, 0.50, and 0.13 millimeter (0.040, 0.020, and 0.005 inch) shims from the clutch hardware package that is provided with the new clutch
Reverse the remaining removal procedures to complete the installation.
CLUTCH BREAK-IN
After a new compressor clutch has been installed, cycle the compressor clutch approximately twenty times (five seconds on, then five seconds off) During this procedure, set the heater-A/C control to the recirculation mode (Max-A/C), the blower motor switch to the highest speed position, and the engine speed at 1500 to 2000 rpm. This procedure (burnishing) will seat the opposing friction surfaces and provide a higher compressor clutch torque capability.
#16
03-04-2011, 12:13 PM
Record Breaker
Just look up on Google the kit #6460.
Better yet, here ya go, here's a website of basically what you need. I'm sure you can get a better deal on it than this website but it's the first I saw thats what you need.
Also, be sure to set aside a good 3 or 4 hours to do the job. The book calls for 1.5 hours so the home mechanic will need around 3.5 hours. Good luck!
Heres that site:
http://www.monstermarketplace.com/au...essor-kit-6460
Better yet, here ya go, here's a website of basically what you need. I'm sure you can get a better deal on it than this website but it's the first I saw thats what you need.
Also, be sure to set aside a good 3 or 4 hours to do the job. The book calls for 1.5 hours so the home mechanic will need around 3.5 hours. Good luck!
Heres that site:
http://www.monstermarketplace.com/au...essor-kit-6460
#18
03-04-2011, 02:07 PM
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Yep. Any time you go shopping for specialty tools it's a good idea to bring along some industrial strength lube...
Definitely a good idea to rent them whenever you can, otherwise you can end up spending more on the tool than the part you're using it to replace (and then never using it again for as long as you live...).
Definitely a good idea to rent them whenever you can, otherwise you can end up spending more on the tool than the part you're using it to replace (and then never using it again for as long as you live...).
#19
03-04-2011, 11:10 PM
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