No I agree and I couldn't figure out why he was saying I need to back my statement up, when I did originally! Oh well. I appreciate backing me up on what I thought because I strive my hardest to not only help everyone out here, but also everyone who may read this off a search on the future.

Freakin' politics! HAHA

 

WW and 01 6.3:

Agreed that taking the high road is the way to go! My part in this is that I should have handled the comment better myself. Don't want to be one of those "Do as I say, not as I do types!"

My apology to you WW for not coming back in a professional manner. Being 45 myself, I am well familiar with the old school distributor mechanical advance of the 60's and 70's.

My experience has been that timing is pretty much a non issue unless its just not there, ie no control from the computer.

The last car I did the timing on was a ford 302 in the 79 Mercury Grand Marquis I had rebuilt at 130k due to worn main bearings.

I also had an 1983 Plymouth Grand Fury that I dealt with timing issues after replacing the timing chain.

Guys, the positive comments are much appreciated. Lets go forward from here.

Don

 

Hey . no hard feelings here ...all is well among the Brotherhood .So forward we go

 

:ic on_munching:

 

Pull plugs one at a time, get a compression tester and do a compression test on each cylinder yourself gap them when you are done testing. It is simple. The shop said you had 2 dead holes. Try to confirm this yourself. If it is true 2 cylinders will have significantly lower pressures than the other 6. At this point you are not necessarily looking at a new engine. The most common problem is a blown head gasket. After that you could be going into a cracked head, worn rings, valve seats, cracked block, etc... They very well could have been blowing smoke up your *** but it is your best lead right now. Afterwards you can confirm injectors have the right resistance with a cheap meter. IIRC injectors are supposed to be around 12k ohms of resistance each. Unhook them from their connectors one at a time and take resistance readings the should all be around the same range. read up on the electrical section if you are unsure of how to use a meter or don't understand electrical theory. Test fuel pressure at the rail with a cheap fuel pressure tester. Disconnect coils one at a time. Does your problem get worse or stay the same? If it stays the same with a coil unhooked you may have found a dead coil. If it gets worse you disconnected a coil that was working properly. Start there and let us know how it went.

You guys are getting waaayyyy off topic and scaring away the new guy.

 

welcome back mean, yes we get off topic, but i dont think its scaring anyone (least not that i have heard of)