1st Gen Durango 1998 - 2003 Durango's

Magnum 360 Cam Suggestions?

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Old Mar 6, 2011 | 10:09 PM
  #11  
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As for the heads, those are my Intake/Exhaust numbers and I went with aluminum Mopar Performance. They cost a little more sure but make up for it in the end IMO rather than P&P them.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2011 | 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by hydrashocker
You must have missed something?
Bigger valves are not the same as porting the runners. They will increase flow but a good port polish job will add to the flow as well.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 05:49 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Biff85ta
Bigger valves are not the same as porting the runners. They will increase flow but a good port polish job will add to the flow as well.

For my goals I just cannot justify spending the cash on a port and polish job.

I'd entertain buying some used heads that someone else ported and now has to sell to put some cash back into a project.

I am always on the lookout for heads that have already been worked and maybe just need some new hardware.

My biggest question is if flat top pistons will work under the larger valves or if I'll need flat tops with valve reliefs, and what size reliefs.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Sooper
For my goals I just cannot justify spending the cash on a port and polish job.

I'd entertain buying some used heads that someone else ported and now has to sell to put some cash back into a project.

I am always on the lookout for heads that have already been worked and maybe just need some new hardware.

My biggest question is if flat top pistons will work under the larger valves or if I'll need flat tops with valve reliefs, and what size reliefs.
If your looking for torque, stay with the 1.92 intake valves. Simply putting a 2.02 valve in a magnum head withpout any porting is going to make for a lazy head, but you're going to have to do some bowl work anyway.
And stock Magnum heads are either cracked now, or are going to crack.

Grab some 1.92 RHS heads off EBAY and plan you build around those...But if your dead set on installing 2.02 valves in your Magnum heads, I have 8 like new Mopar SS valves for sale.

CAM: Theres a cam out the called the Sausage CA, 210/216 512/512 @ 112 It was designed for stock heads and to be emissions friendly. Lot's of guys ran one, including me in my Dak R/T till I went to 236/242 cam.

Here's a video of the Sausage man himself with his truck http://www.streetfire.net/video/sausage-cam_144815.htm

I plan on the same cam for my 1998 Ram w/ stock RHS heads.
 

Last edited by Adobedude; Mar 7, 2011 at 09:02 AM.
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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 10:26 AM
  #15  
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+1 on the Sausage CA cam! I've heard of it and heard great things from it as well. No first hand experience with it however.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Sooper
My biggest question is if flat top pistons will work under the larger valves or if I'll need flat tops with valve reliefs, and what size reliefs.
Yes you can run flat tops, but you will need reliefs in the piston top. Not sure what piston as you would be installing larger valves. You are going to have to get the heads first in order to buy the piston.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by hydrashocker
Yes you can run flat tops, but you will need reliefs in the piston top. Not sure what piston as you would be installing larger valves. You are going to have to get the heads first in order to buy the piston.

It has been suggested that I leave the stock valve sizes.

I will obviously have the heads checks for cracks but outside of that I may end up keeping the heads as they are with new hardware.

Do you concur that that might be a better idea of I'm focusing more on torque than HP?

Also, when I say I like torque, I don't mean it to come at the expense of HP where I need it like passing someone or a spirited jaunt in an attempt to put a smile across my face.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 03:48 PM
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It's all about what you want most out of your performance mods. Myself, I have done a complete overhaul for torque because I do a lot of towing rather than taking it to the strip. I did flat top pistons with 30 over bore and Mopar Performance heads and a M1 performance intake. Also have Fastman 52mm TB and Champion Iridium plugs with complete MSD ignition with digital ignition.

I also am currently working on figuring out the logistics of traversing my 46re into a 47re. Be sure if you get serious not to forget your transmission!
 
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Old Mar 8, 2011 | 01:10 AM
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TRy these cam spec , not too radical but will work well with your build
int adv 246 195 @ .050
ex adv 262 205 @ .050
lift int .287 .459( 1.6 rocker ratio)
lift ex .300 .480 ( 1.6 rocker ratio)
113 degree seperation
 
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Old Mar 8, 2011 | 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by 01 6.3L RT
TRy these cam spec , not too radical but will work well with your build
int adv 246 195 @ .050
ex adv 262 205 @ .050
lift int .287 .459( 1.6 rocker ratio)
lift ex .300 .480 ( 1.6 rocker ratio)
113 degree seperation

I like it. I assume it will work with stock valve train? I will of course buy new springs to match the cam, and rebuild the heads with new hardware and seals. I just don't want to replace the rockers if I don't have to and at this point I am still up in the air on the larger valves.
 
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