I have a 1999 durango. When we test drove it almost a month and a half ago, battery was dead. they charged it and it ran good besides needing a heater core. We ended up buying it and replaced the battery the next day when i tried to start the vehicle and the batter was dead. Figured it was just a bad battery(did test bad). Vehicle ran fine for weeks. Finally had a local guy change out the heater core(not a shop) and since then nothing but problems. Found out nearly every wire that connects to the dash had been cut and spliced back together, why i really dont know. Well, he got the heater core replaced and when we got it back heater blew for about 2 hours, then stopped. Went to lock the vehicle and door locks would not lock. Then noticed that the dome lights wouldnt work either. Mechanic came out 2 days later and battery was dead again(this time its the new battery). So he jumped it and got it to his garage and found that he didnt hook up a grounding strap from the dash. No big deal. BUT now the vehicle will kill a fully charged battery in less then 7 hours.(picked it up at 1pm and went to start it at 8pm and it was dead). Now a couple helpful things so maybe you can help me. Battery was tested at 2 places and is tested good. It can sit for 2+ hours and only loose .2v's with the dome/interior light switched turned all the way off(all the way down to where dome lights will not come on). if we move it up(just so dome lights will come on if doors are open), not all the way up, it drops 2.5+ volts in 2 hours. Dome lights are not comming on during that time. Right now i have charged the battery and let the truck run for about an hour. Going to see if the truck will start in the morning with the switch in the OFF position since that has never been tested. Another thing. According to the mechanic, anything under 11.5v the truck will nto try to start BUT i went out the other day and tried to start it and it tried but was to low and when i checked the voltage with a MM, it was sitting at 7.5v so i dont know how helpful that is. I am trying to give as much info as i can. We are at the point where we are going to start pulling a fuse(say for the radio) and then see if the truck can start in the morning. Then if it dosnt, charging battery and removing the Dome light fuse and doing the whole process over. I really need help. We have had this vehicle for a month and a half and in the past 3 weeks and 2 days, we have been able to drive the truck for 1 DAY, only 1 day. Thanks

 

Get a test light, the cheapo bulb types are better for this- as opposed to led.

Pull your radio fuse. Now, pull your + Batt terminal wire off. Connect the alligator clip of the test light to your terminal wire and positive probe to the Batt (I use vise grips to hold it in place)

This will create a circuit since you have a draw and your light will come on.

Pull your radio fuse first since it will have a small draw (which is normal).

Now, start pulling fuses- one by one, and atch that test light. If its only one circuit pulling a draw then the light will go off when you find it.

You may have 2 or more draws- if this is the case then you'll have to pull each fuse one by one and leave it out. When all the fuses are out and the light hasn't went out then put fuses in one by one. If the light comes on then remember or write down the fuse but take it back out and move to the next one. You may find several draws.

When you know what circuits a the problem then you have to start chasing wires. Have someone look at the light while you're moving wires around, when it flickers you should be on to something.

Don't forget to pull relays and your engine relay/fuse box.

You can also connect the test light -neg to the -batt and touch the fuse tops with everything off and see what still has power. Just remember that some circuits have power full time anyway- but shouldn't be drawing.

Hope this helps bud.

 

6th paragraph, 2nd sentence- the light should go out with everthing pulled but your light won't go out until you've found the LAST draw (if you have more than 1.

 

Blue destroyer, please break things up into sections like Charlie did. It's hard for us folks with ADD to keep reading all of that. In the future break it up because you lost me like a 1/4 the way into it.

 

That's 3 people with ADD. You, me, and Indy. Is this a conspiracy?


But yea, I couln't follow his post either with all of it jumbled together. I kinda loose interest (not to be rude) and have a hard time following.

 

make that 4 w/ ADD hydra, after classes i cant focus on anything in large segments

 

lol. sorry everyone. it was my first post and was excited to post so i could get some help. I did however track down the problem a little. With the dimmer in the complete off position, vehicle has lasted 2 days compared to 6 hours before. Got a new headlight/dimmer switch and its being installed today.

I know this might not be the true fix as if i am correct, it still could be the dome lights or maybe even the door closed sensors. Does anyone know where those are? looked on all 4 doors and could not find a sensor anywhere.

Thanks for the help everyone, it really did help.

 

The door closed/open sensor is actually built into the latch mechanism. Mine was going out and doing the same thing so I tire a couple wires together to kill the leech.

The part that latches the door to the frame is an all in one latch/close sensor. If you feel you need to replace the sensor portion of it, try going to a junkyard and getting a latch and it should be the fix you're looking for.

HTH

 

WhiteWidow00, is it the latch on the door or the vehicle frame side?

i just replaced the switch and moved it into the on position where it was killing the battery. Gonna head out in about 5 hours and see if it will start, if it does, we know we fixed it. if not, gotta be the door sensors and gotta figure out which one of the 5 it is.

 

It is the latch on the door side sorry if I made it hard to understand with my words LOL. The latch is accessed by removing the screw by the handle, on the bottom of the door, and by the mirror adjuster. To remove it, I believe it's 2 T25 screws that hold it in and a connector on the latch.

The latch on th frame is nothing but a bar that is stationary for the door latch to latch on to.