5.9 Durango P0172 4.7 to 5.9 swap
#12
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Yes, what shrp said because they did the cosmetic overhaul in the 2001+ model years. Apparently one model year was a 2000 and one was a 2001, and you'd have to either pull the build sheet or ask Dodge help to know which model year it was.
For instance, mine was a 2000 model year but I bought it in January of 2000 and it was manufactured in November 1999.
For instance, mine was a 2000 model year but I bought it in January of 2000 and it was manufactured in November 1999.
#13
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I replaced the rear oxygen sensor yesterday an it helped but still is running a little rich The connector on it was damaged and it was not changing on the scanner before it was holding at .740V and not changings so that showed me that the sensor was being lazy. The fuel pressure is 45-50psi, vacuum reading is 9.4"-10", I pulled the injectors to see if they were leaking and none of them were leaking I let it sit with the pressure gauge on it and it leaked down to 10 psi withing 3hrs of sitting. oxygen sensor readings were O2S11 .100-.900v, 02S12 .100-900V changing rapidly. Ignition advace was 9-20 degrees depending on rpms. ST FTRM (%) 0.0-3.1 CHANGING RAPIDLY , LT FTRM1 (%) 3.9 HOLDING. NO ENGINE LIGHT. This thing runs great and hickups every once in a while and then runs great after that. I sets the DTC without the light P0172. I believe the fuel pump or pressure regulator is not holding but fuel pressure seems to be alright. It is still in learning mode to, I reset the computer when I installed it, by touching the positive battery cable to the engine block and grounding it with the neg. still hook up for 30 seconds. I'm lost it just seems like it is doing great untill it slows down to idle and is in closed loop is when it happens once it does it smooths out and is fine after that. I was driving it up and on ramp this morning and and it popped out of the exhaust four times and then smoothed out. I just don't know what else could be causing it. I replaced everything on the timing and ignition side and checked everything on the fuel side.
#14
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I replaced the rear oxygen sensor yesterday an it helped but still is running a little rich The connector on it was damaged and it was not changing on the scanner before it was holding at .740V and not changings so that showed me that the sensor was being lazy.
The fuel pressure is 45-50psi, vacuum reading is 9.4"-10", I pulled the injectors to see if they were leaking and none of them were leaking I let it sit with the pressure gauge on it and it leaked down to 10 psi withing 3hrs of sitting.
I reset the computer when I installed it, by touching the positive battery cable to the engine block and grounding it with the neg.
still hook up for 30 seconds. I'm lost it just seems like it is doing great untill it slows down to idle and is in closed loop is when it happens once it does it smooths out and is fine after that. I was driving it up and on ramp this morning and and it popped out of the exhaust four times and then smoothed out. I just don't know what else could be causing it. I replaced everything on the timing and ignition side and checked everything on the fuel side.
#16
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The fuel pump will leak down a little from hot motor to cold because of the heat. When the fuel cools down it condenses and thus the loss of some PSI.
P0172 1/1 Fuel Sys Rich
Well that right there is a bad pre CAT O2 sensor.
+1 Sharps, you didn't reset the PCM, in fact you could have fryed the thing! https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...ine-light.html
P0172 1/1 Fuel Sys Rich
Well that right there is a bad pre CAT O2 sensor.
+1 Sharps, you didn't reset the PCM, in fact you could have fryed the thing! https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...ine-light.html
#17
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How would I have fried the PCM with the negitive cable still hooked to the battery, and then grounding the positive cable to the block? I didn't send power back to the computer at all. I found this procedure on this website. I drove this the last two day and it has been running great without problem now just the other morning once. You say the pre cat oxygen sensor is bad. It is reading and changing rapidly like it is suppose to how is that sensor bad I always thought as long as it is reading between .000-1V and changing rapidly then it is working, but please explain I'm not a driveaiblity tech.
#18
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By dissconnecting the neg cable and turning the key, you're draining all the power FROM the PCM and other modules to the starter motor. By dissconnecting the positive battery cable and shorting it to ground, any power still stored in the PCM is now going back into ground and pushing it TO the PCM and other modules. The capacitors inside the PCM need to be drained to a motor and not back into circuits.
#19
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by touching the positive battery cable to the ground you are sending a shock back thru the system, ever have a power surge hit your house while you computer was plugged directly into the wall? what happened? yup the something inside the computer got fried, same idea here.
and no you did NOT find the procedure that you used to reset it on dodgeforum.com, i guarantee that (and if you did i would like to see where so it can be corrected)
here is our procedure for resetting the pcm
and no you did NOT find the procedure that you used to reset it on dodgeforum.com, i guarantee that (and if you did i would like to see where so it can be corrected)
here is our procedure for resetting the pcm
To reset your engine codes:
Remove the negative terminal of your battery (10mm wrench).
Turn your ignition key to START and hold it there for about 15 seconds.
Turn your ignition key to OFF and remove it.
Connect the negative terminal of your battery.
Start but do not hit the throttle. Idle for about 10/15 seconds then turn off.
Restart the truck and drive as usual. It will take at least 12 starts and 48 miles to fully retune the computer. Hard Codes leave a shaddow for 40 full cold starts.
Remove the negative terminal of your battery (10mm wrench).
Turn your ignition key to START and hold it there for about 15 seconds.
Turn your ignition key to OFF and remove it.
Connect the negative terminal of your battery.
Start but do not hit the throttle. Idle for about 10/15 seconds then turn off.
Restart the truck and drive as usual. It will take at least 12 starts and 48 miles to fully retune the computer. Hard Codes leave a shaddow for 40 full cold starts.
Last edited by shrpshtr325; 04-06-2011 at 04:25 PM.
#20
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Yes theres q reason you should never touch to positive to the negative ever. Good analogy shrp and is very true.
You should have just asked how to reset the PCM because touching the battery to the block isn't how you do it. Like shrp said the correct procedure (also found in the stickies at the top of the page) is turning the key with the positive off the post.
Good luck and happy trails!
You should have just asked how to reset the PCM because touching the battery to the block isn't how you do it. Like shrp said the correct procedure (also found in the stickies at the top of the page) is turning the key with the positive off the post.
Good luck and happy trails!