Just an update on my stuck oil plug..... with the warm weather we are having i had a chance to take another crack at getting that thing off... a pair of vise grips and a sledge hammer later it finally popped!

Drained out all the old oil, blacker than the night sky... filled her up with fresh Castrol high mileage 10-30 now shes goood to go!

ill pick up a new drain plug when i get out next.... old one was pretty stripped...

 

Yes you should be just fine!

Next oil change I would go to Mobil One Fully Synthetic 10W-30 and go to 5000 mile oil change intervals.

 

will mobile-1 work for a 69 charger???

 

Yes, it should work just fine.

 

Thanks, hydra gf has a 69 charger I will get to work on and I wanna keep it running as long as possible

 

I have a 4.7L - manual/dodge recommends 5w-30. I used 5w-30 synthetic last..

Would you all still recommend 10W-30 on this one?

About 108K miles, I think the engine's still in good shape, never burns any oil that I'm aware of, even on a good acceleration.

 

use the manual recommendation for your vehicle, is the best way to go, synthetic or dino oil is up to you

 

All of the 1st generation Dodge Durango's should use 10W-30. The manual also states that if the engine is operated in very cold weather (lets say always under 30 F degrees) then you should use 5W-30 because of the lower viscosity at lower temperatures. Now they are both a 10W at the higher temps, but what they are talking about is the lower areas of the temperatures. When we talk about the first number (which is the viscosity at lower temperatures) the lower the number the more liquified the viscosity to get to the critical engine parts first. Since a 5W is lower than a 10W, the 5W will get to critical engine parts faster but they both share the same additives as the 30 on the hot side.

Now what you have to understand is that these examples are for Conventional oils ONLY. Because motors have to have a basis of understanding that is across the board, all manufactures build their motors and vehicles at sea level requirements. This means that the parameters are therefore equal.

Now that we have that out of the way, lets talk about Fully Synthetics. There are 2 separate types, Lab created from a process of the perfect refining process (Polly), and the second process of manufacturing it for a certain period of time (Hydro-Cracked).

Now the best obviously is the Polly base Fully Synthetic, and runner up is the cheap way out, the Hydro-Cracked.

Mobil One uses a Polly oil base (which is far superior then Hydro) and with them using this base oil there are many other well beings. #1 is it's abiltiy to flow like water at temperatures of -54 F like water! Now because of this it wipes the need for the lower grade 5W conventional because it is now it is getting to critical engine parts even FASTER then Conventional oils!

This means you can count the 5W-30Conventional right out of the books because Mobil One 10W-30 is FAR superior then that!

The next thing is the additives that even continue to sky rocket the use of Fully Synthetics. Because they are held to a higher standard of Governmental Law, they also must have better detergents then conventional's, this helps to keep your engine and parts even cleaner then conventional's. Also the base oil is far superior then conventional's because it is so refined less wear on parts occurs! Also you can go about twice as long between changes because of this less wear, this saves you money and many times less wear!

So in a nut shell, all 1st Generation Durangos should benefit from using Fully Synthetics if they are taken care of.

 

Anyone with experianxce with K&N filters?

 

They are a good filter, but not worth the cost factor in my book. Same thing with a Mobil One Synthetic filter. Now when cleaning out a motor or when I'm planing on towing a large load 2000 miles then I use them because the justification is there.


I use Purolator and Bosch filters.

Here is some good info: http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/index.html