i dont have chevrons around me either josh

 

Hey guys I've been running premium (92 octane) For the past well about 16 gallons of driving. and i can still hear the knocking/ticking/pinging.

I hear it mostly at start up. Than it seems to go away? not 100% if its completely gone but i cant hear it I've been reading up on it, you know piston slap lifter tap and such But my question is this:

What grade oil should i be using? 5w30? my last 2 oil changes where in the spring and in the summer here and i used regular oreily 10w30.

Is it a big deal to run a heavier viscosity? I read that improper lubrication could cause the ticking/knocking/pinging noise.

((**for those that don't know the first number stands for the thickness of the oil the w stands for winter aka all season formulation and the last number usually 30 40 or 50 stands for how the oil thickness acts at regular temps...everyone probably knows this but throwing it out there if it can help**))

So does anyone think that 10w30 is maybe just running to slow through its cycle? it should run like a 30 weight sense its warm?

 

Around here we've had problems with even the big brand name stations, usually with water in the gas. I generally just take my dad's advice and just buy the cheapest gas I can find. There's a place close to where I work that had regular for $3.29 last time I saw, I almost always get my gas there and have never had a problem. Its the gas station at one of those Farm Crest places, never had a problem in the 5 years I've bought gas there.

As for the oil, on one of the threads I saw someone had posted a kind of chart showing what conditions to use both 10W30 and 5W30 in the 4.7, and it seemed like for most places, and most driving use that both would work, mine always gets 10W30 all year and never has any problems.

 

Where do live that gas is $3.29? The cheapest here is $3.75 for regular with out ethanol. Yeah 10w30 and 5w30 should both work fine.

 

You should be using 5w-30 or 10W-30. 10w if you’re towing a lot and heavy duty use, also helps in really hot places like Nevada. 5w for normal and cold driving for your 4.7L motor.

Yes it is a "Big Deal" to use the right lubricant. When you step out of the 5w-30 and 10w-30 you also step out of the additives needed for your motor. For instance, if you use a 15W-40 (well this is diesel oil) it does not have the additives needed for your motor. It has more anti-soot agents and other additives for those lower RPM motors. These oils do not have all the additives needed for your motor.

You see, manufactures build motors to run certain oils because of metal composition, tolerances, oil passages, clearances, and a magnitude of other issues including things like lifter passages. So you see you shouldn't just do this and that because it's not made for your motor.

Now you could have worn rockers or other issues under your valve covers, but I think all these motors click a little.

 

Denver! Just another reason why I'd have a hard time moving away from the area. When I was in Nebraska a couple weeks ago all they had was premium and regular. Premium had ethanol and was actually cheaper, so I went ahead and used it, I figured everything we get here in CO has ethanol in it so I might as well save the money. The highest gas prices we had were at about $3.80ish I believe. Never hit the $3.90s in Denver, it did in the mountains and some towns, but not where I am.

 

tapping/ticking on start up is pretty normal for the 4.7 i wouldnt worry about it as long as it goes away pretty quickly (a minute or so at most)



you SHOULD be using the 5w30 in the 4.7, however the 10w30 is just fine, and is what i use in my truck year round so 5 or 10w30 is fine just dont keep switching back and forth btwn weights and brands.

not quite

actually the oils used in these trucks are in the format XXwYY where xx and yy are numbers (duh)
xx is the weight of the oil when its cold, when you first start up the truck in most cases
yy is the weight of the oil when it is running through the hot engine (30 weight at 200+F is still thinner than 5 weight at 200F
now the 10w is fine in your truck dont worry about it

 

Thanks guys, just read through all your post. So 10w30 is fine. Though i think my next oil change i'd like to go back to 5w30 if thats whats been used in it til now.

unleaded regular gas around here is about $3.65 now i think. though i'm gonna stick to premium unleaded for a while. runs nice and burns nice plus it does get me better gas miles.

So ticking at start up is normal for the most part? So my motor wont die out on me 20,000 miles sooner than it should?

 

I don't think so personally. Most people talk about the ticking on start up.

 

Ok, That's good to know that ticking is a common thing. I mean i see A LOT about it on multiple forums and car brands. Subaru's, GM, Jeep, and i think Nissan or Toyota. Cant remember exactly but with multiple things like piston slap, lifter tap, etc.

Hey shrp, do you have the knock/ticking as well? Or anyone else in general?