1999 5.9 4x4
Hall Of Fame
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 14,228
Likes: 19
From: Riverton, UT
Hydra is back from vacation!......Ready..........Nothing happened.........Oh well!
Anyway doing a quick read, the mechanic didn't crush the sleeve because of the instructions givin in the manual. It says to apply no more then like 210 lbs torque to the nut, however when actually crushing a new crush sleeve you are supposed to apply up to 350 lbs torque (yes that is NOT a typo) until the bearing end play has been taken up. You do this with the old pinion nut. Then you back off and replace the nut with the new one and torque in increments of 5 lbs torque until you have a preload of;
Pinion Bearing Preload
Original . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-2 N·m (10-20 in.lbs.)
New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2–5 N·m (15–35 in. lbs.)
Now up to 350 lbs is VERY hard to reach! You need a big bar and a big torque wrench to meet that kind of torque. Now once you torque it and get your preload (using the old nut) you can test to see if the crush sleeve did in fact crush by simply removing the yoke and pulling it out and looking at it compared to the old one. But once you do get everything set you mush only torque the new nut once and you use lok-tite on the threads when setting.
Once you get that done you then set the backlash. The backlash can change if the pinion wasn't set right and therefore cause a heating issue or ware issue that causes heat taking out the bearings causing the failure. Topdog said he would replace the whole thing again and I would agree. I would take it back to the re-builder and have him fix it. This is the problem with working on differentials and why a regular mechanics don't work on them.
As for your used clutch pack question, used is used, the clips can just pop out with worn clutch packs. Really it was a shotty design in the first place. You can buy a new set if you want and have him put it in while he has it ripped apart. Manufactures name is Dana part number 706352X
(10) Using yoke holder 6958, a short length of 1 in.
pipe, and a torque wrench set at 474 N·m (350 ft.
lbs.), crush collapsible spacer until bearing end play
is taken up.
NOTE: If more than 474 N·m (350 ft. lbs.) of torque
is necessary to remove the bearing end play, the
collapsible spacer is defective and must be
replaced.
(11) Slowly tighten the nut in 6.8 N·m (5 ft. lbs.)
increments until the rotating torque is achieved.
Measure the rotating torque frequently to avoid over
crushing the collapsible spacer (Fig. 15).
(12) Check rotating torque with an inch pound
torque wrench (Fig. 15). The torque necessary to
rotate the pinion gear should be:
² Original Bearings — The reading recorded during
removal, plus an additional 0.56 N·m (5 in. lbs.).
² New Bearings — 2 to 5 N·m (15 to 35 in. lbs.).
Anyway doing a quick read, the mechanic didn't crush the sleeve because of the instructions givin in the manual. It says to apply no more then like 210 lbs torque to the nut, however when actually crushing a new crush sleeve you are supposed to apply up to 350 lbs torque (yes that is NOT a typo) until the bearing end play has been taken up. You do this with the old pinion nut. Then you back off and replace the nut with the new one and torque in increments of 5 lbs torque until you have a preload of;
Pinion Bearing Preload
Original . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-2 N·m (10-20 in.lbs.)
New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2–5 N·m (15–35 in. lbs.)
Now up to 350 lbs is VERY hard to reach! You need a big bar and a big torque wrench to meet that kind of torque. Now once you torque it and get your preload (using the old nut) you can test to see if the crush sleeve did in fact crush by simply removing the yoke and pulling it out and looking at it compared to the old one. But once you do get everything set you mush only torque the new nut once and you use lok-tite on the threads when setting.
Once you get that done you then set the backlash. The backlash can change if the pinion wasn't set right and therefore cause a heating issue or ware issue that causes heat taking out the bearings causing the failure. Topdog said he would replace the whole thing again and I would agree. I would take it back to the re-builder and have him fix it. This is the problem with working on differentials and why a regular mechanics don't work on them.
As for your used clutch pack question, used is used, the clips can just pop out with worn clutch packs. Really it was a shotty design in the first place. You can buy a new set if you want and have him put it in while he has it ripped apart. Manufactures name is Dana part number 706352X
(10) Using yoke holder 6958, a short length of 1 in.
pipe, and a torque wrench set at 474 N·m (350 ft.
lbs.), crush collapsible spacer until bearing end play
is taken up.
NOTE: If more than 474 N·m (350 ft. lbs.) of torque
is necessary to remove the bearing end play, the
collapsible spacer is defective and must be
replaced.
(11) Slowly tighten the nut in 6.8 N·m (5 ft. lbs.)
increments until the rotating torque is achieved.
Measure the rotating torque frequently to avoid over
crushing the collapsible spacer (Fig. 15).
(12) Check rotating torque with an inch pound
torque wrench (Fig. 15). The torque necessary to
rotate the pinion gear should be:
² Original Bearings — The reading recorded during
removal, plus an additional 0.56 N·m (5 in. lbs.).
² New Bearings — 2 to 5 N·m (15 to 35 in. lbs.).
Thread Starter
|
Rookie
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 96
Likes: 0
From: Yuma, AZ
REALLY?
SHE?
Pic. of self below:
...I need to...REALLY NEED to change my name to something like Burt, Ram, John or something that sounds manly....not Andreas i guess.
Anyways (he he) ...
I will have the truck at the mechs tomorrow morning and they will open it to see what is going on, if any more metal if flying around etc.
Last time they took it apart and checked all, just found minimal dings and scratched, nothing broken, chipped etc.
Some bearings have already been replaced, it has all been cleaned etc etc BUT if there is anything else going on or it looks like it could help I will get the whole kit.
Shall see tomorrow. Thanks for the replies.
Hall Of Fame
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 14,228
Likes: 19
From: Riverton, UT
However, the name is a bit.....ummmmmm.....strange, and yes I have to agree it is more of a uni-sex handle if anything. You could do a signature with a good photo standing in front of the truck or such with some flames or something as well. Not knocking the handle or anything.
Record Breaker
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,387
Likes: 41
From: Bismarck, ND
Sorry man, I didn't realize. The only andrea I've ever met is my female cousin, just look where I live. I probably pronounced your user name wrong too, not a whole lot of ethnic diversity in ND. No problem that's why we're here.
Captain
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 560
Likes: 1
From: Tempe,Az
I have to say this site cracks me UP!!!!!!!
Thread Starter
|
Rookie
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 96
Likes: 0
From: Yuma, AZ
Shya
Well, to the name thing...I am german and that name is pretty comon (Saint Andreas...oh, and St. Andreas Fault)
The 's' at the end after Andrea makes itmale...but anyways.
Got the bearings (inner, outer) racers (or what they are called), seal etc etc.
It is really always good to go and get the parts, learn about how stuff works so next time you have to take it in you know, more or less, what it is and isn't.
Met a lot of people, bartered the NAPA guy into dropping $25 off the price of bearings, learned that big auto-part stores either don't care, don't know...or just don't listen.
Printed a lot out, learned part-names...
Goofd website, hope this keeps going.
Thank again yo...now, let's hope the vehicle comes back fine.
--------------------------
It does seem like a good vehicle.
The 's' at the end after Andrea makes itmale...but anyways.
Got the bearings (inner, outer) racers (or what they are called), seal etc etc.
It is really always good to go and get the parts, learn about how stuff works so next time you have to take it in you know, more or less, what it is and isn't.
Met a lot of people, bartered the NAPA guy into dropping $25 off the price of bearings, learned that big auto-part stores either don't care, don't know...or just don't listen.
Printed a lot out, learned part-names...
Goofd website, hope this keeps going.
Thank again yo...now, let's hope the vehicle comes back fine.
--------------------------
It does seem like a good vehicle.
Thread Starter
|
Rookie
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 96
Likes: 0
From: Yuma, AZ
Well then...
Got a call from the mechanic last weekend at around 23:30 at night telling me all was done and if I wanted to get the car in the morning or if I wanted him to take it to me that night. Pfff...BRING IT! Why ask?
So, drove the thing and man..sooo quiet...nothing...all you hear is the wheels on the road. Beautiful. 4x4 works like a charm, differential makes no sound at all, engine rumbles quietly, leather seat all the way back (cuz i am tall, not a cholo)...what a beautiful ride it is.
Love this car...
Well, took it to the car-wash to remove all the grease etc. from the outside and inside and came to realize how many people have banged their doors into the sides of my Durango. DUDE!
But, yeah...inner and outer bearings replaced including the race (?).
He showed me the oldpart and it was rought o the touch. Nothing really major but better have it done now than waiting for bigger problems.
Full synthetic oil for this car...good?
Later, and thank you all very mcuh!
So, drove the thing and man..sooo quiet...nothing...all you hear is the wheels on the road. Beautiful. 4x4 works like a charm, differential makes no sound at all, engine rumbles quietly, leather seat all the way back (cuz i am tall, not a cholo)...what a beautiful ride it is.
Love this car...
Well, took it to the car-wash to remove all the grease etc. from the outside and inside and came to realize how many people have banged their doors into the sides of my Durango. DUDE!
But, yeah...inner and outer bearings replaced including the race (?).
He showed me the oldpart and it was rought o the touch. Nothing really major but better have it done now than waiting for bigger problems.
Full synthetic oil for this car...good?
Later, and thank you all very mcuh!